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slide out issue on Cameo

Petethescot
Explorer
Explorer
Hi All I have a 2008 Cameo F35Sb3 and today one of my slide-outs would not function properly when trying to bring it in. It would move 6 inches then stop I would wait 10 sec and it would again move about 6 inches, after about three moves like this it comes all way in. tried this several times and same results. BTW goes out with no issues. So here are a couple of questions: Is this a bad power connection or is the slide-out motor starting to go. Where would the motor be on a Cameo underneath it is all sealed down there so cannot see.? it is the doorside slide out Would you access it from underneath or inside under the dinning and seating area? thanks for any reponses. cheers Peter
19 REPLIES 19

Weldon
Explorer
Explorer
Doublecheck voltage at battery. Slides work off 12 volt.

Some slide motors have a slot at the back of the motor that will accept a bit then use the cordless driver to bring slide in. Assuming you don't have a crank to do the same.

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
Sounds to me you have a mechanical problem causing more load on your electrical motor causing it to shut down. As someone suggested if you help the slide by pushing it in or out and it works without stopping it is a mechanical issue. Mine would do the same as you described and I would adjust the potentiometer and all was well for several years. When it started to happen again I noticed that where the slide rolls in and out the rollers dug into the floor somewhat and created some resistance. I removed the groove in the floor by adding some sht metal over the groove and the slide came in again. Try adjusting the pot first then look at where the slides roll on the floor and any other mechanical parts for wear. Hope this helps.

JayeByrd
Explorer
Explorer
HI! Finally someone knows...? My 2009 Cammy 32 FWS has no zippers underneath... I hope you can help? WHERE DO I LOOK for the slideout Motor???? Am guessing may even be two? It is a 29 foot-ish slide For now, the manual override to manually crank it in is of utmost importance!! HELP!!!! Owner's manual is about 7 sentences or so NO Help.I removed access panel (all plumbing far as I can see). Then I removed entire "underbelly shroud", no "soap". Only the rear is that plastic fabric - must've been replaced by former owner. I know just a few things: 1. My problem started out with a micro-switch. Under kitchen cabinet.Slide out extends but doesn't retract. 2. Problem worse than micro-switch now. No power flowing through wires to motor (pretty sure) 3. I have learned that all Carriage slide-out assy.'s are between floor and sub-floor. 4. I MUST leave where I am now, and I am too far for Mobile repair to get to without BIG $$$$$$ to get to me, AND no one wishes to try. 5. I have exp. the American rig slide-outs, NOT Canadian ones; and yes I checked fuses, breakers, reset the 12v - everything I can think of.... 6. I can't "switch" the wires behind wall switch. Harness wires too short HELLLLLPPP!

SDcampowneroper
Explorer
Explorer
i A great point , look closely at the arrow, its a morryde rubber equalizer that is not tubed, sleeved wirh a wear bushing.
The shackle. bolts have only the equalizer 'ears' to wear against. Failure is certain.

Itinerant1
Explorer
Explorer
Look here while under there.

12v 500ah, 20 cells_ 4s5p (GBS LFMP battery system). 8 CTI 160 watt panels (1,280 watts)2s4p,Panels mounted flat. Magnum PT100 SCC, Magnum 3012 hybrid inverter, ME-ARC 50. Installed 4/2016 been on 24/7/365, daily 35-45% DOD 2,500+ partial cycles.

SDcampowneroper
Explorer
Explorer
Petethescot wrote:
SDcampowneroperator wrote:
The zipper open access panels will not give you enough room to service the system. ours were rusted solid. Honey, Its Stuck! Open it a lot, give yourself rooooom.
I had to cut a much larger opening through the underbelly fabric, fold back the insulation do the gear replacement then reseal the underbelly fabric with 3 M super 77 spray contact cement and more fabric as a 'tape'
Carriage slideout gears and jacks
were made by RBW, sold to Dexter, then to Coachworks. New parts are exclusive to Coachworks and $$$. $$$ $ and then some. Salvage parts do not serve any better as the same issues are present.
The motors and drives are for us are good, its the gearing and engagement that failed A wrench job , maybe a welding job to rebuild the sprocket, most importantly rearrange spacers and bushings to fully engage the sprocket on the rack gear.


Thanks ??
I am giving my experience maybe the , worst case scenario. Been there, fixed. with upgrades. It wasnt electrical, It was mechanical on both door and off door side slides. rack gears to crown gear engagement was not full, allowing wear and gear tooth stripping.
Our Cameo has many slide out cycles every year. It wasnt the number of cycles asmuch as the poot alignment of crown gear to rack, and tolerances between them.
Manufacturers defect that would pass by for a while, beyond warranty likely Thats where so many issues arise.
Your Cameo also has Moryde rubber equalizer suspension. Look closely, the moryde eyelets to lower shackle point are not tubed, not nylon sleeved to prevent wear on the shackles and bolts. Again been there. $$$$ fix on the road, $ now at home. I caught it at home, welded in tubing, bored to 23/64 " placed nylon bushings in all points and upgraded to wet shackle bolts.that I aligned with the lube holes in the nylon sleeve/ bushings.
My point is, while you are under there, look with education at the other issues of greater concern than the slide.

Durb
Explorer
Explorer
Have you tried getting some friends give you a push assist on the slide to reduce the motor energy needed to bring it in? If it comes in on a single pass then your motor is working too hard on its own and is shutting itself down. Also, remove as much weight as you can from the slide.

I will say that sometimes our slide motor will shut down when we first push the retract switch. We push again and it works fine. I figured it was just overcoming the original slide stiction from being out for a while.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
I do not know what system you have but many use a current sensor in the control box to tell if it has reached end of travel (the motor stalls and current increases)

Any obstruction will still the motor
Slide slightly out of adjustment can increase the load
Lack of Lubrication
And old age (of the motor)

In theory you can adjust the current sensor
in practice don't ask me how.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Petethescot
Explorer
Explorer
SDcampowneroperator wrote:
The zipper open access panels will not give you enough room to service the system. ours were rusted solid. Honey, Its Stuck! Open it a lot, give yourself rooooom.
I had to cut a much larger opening through the underbelly fabric, fold back the insulation do the gear replacement then reseal the underbelly fabric with 3 M super 77 spray contact cement and more fabric as a 'tape'
Carriage slideout gears and jacks
were made by RBW, sold to Dexter, then to Coachworks. New parts are exclusive to Coachworks and $$$. $$$ $ and then some. Salvage parts do not serve any better as the same issues are present.
The motors and drives are for us are good, its the gearing and engagement that failed A wrench job , maybe a welding job to rebuild the sprocket, most importantly rearrange spacers and bushings to fully engage the sprocket on the rack gear.


Thanks ??

SDcampowneroper
Explorer
Explorer
The zipper open access panels will not give you enough room to service the system. ours were rusted solid. Honey, Its Stuck! Open it a lot, give yourself rooooom.
I had to cut a much larger opening through the underbelly fabric, fold back the insulation do the gear replacement then reseal the underbelly fabric with 3 M super 77 spray contact cement and more fabric as a 'tape'
Carriage slideout gears and jacks
were made by RBW, sold to Dexter, then to Coachworks. New parts are exclusive to Coachworks and $$$. $$$ $ and then some. Salvage parts do not serve any better as the same issues are present.
The motors and drives are for us are good, its the gearing and engagement that failed A wrench job , maybe a welding job to rebuild the sprocket, most importantly rearrange spacers and bushings to fully engage the sprocket on the rack gear.

Petethescot
Explorer
Explorer
Durb wrote:
I don't have a Cameo but I do have a 2008 Carriage product. The slide control motor is actuated by a slide control box which has connections for the switches and the motors. I also believe there is an adjustment (probably amperage) that tells the motor to stop when the slide is in. My box was hidden underneath the refrigerator. Could be there is extra friction on the slide and the box is telling it to shut down with an automatic reset. Could be a bad box. Trouble shoot by switching the leads on the motor then hit the "out" switch to see if it comes in. Don't know if the Cameo works the same but worth a try.

Doubt that it is the motor. Same motor and gears for "in and out". Polarity of two leads is just switched. Soaking the access zipper with WD40 will help it move but you are still going to break off the pull tab at which time a small loop pick works well. Make sure you have a good battery connected in addition to powering your convertor.


Thanks ??

Durb
Explorer
Explorer
I don't have a Cameo but I do have a 2008 Carriage product. The slide control motor is actuated by a slide control box which has connections for the switches and the motors. I also believe there is an adjustment (probably amperage) that tells the motor to stop when the slide is in. My box was hidden underneath the refrigerator. Could be there is extra friction on the slide and the box is telling it to shut down with an automatic reset. Could be a bad box. Trouble shoot by switching the leads on the motor then hit the "out" switch to see if it comes in. Don't know if the Cameo works the same but worth a try.

Doubt that it is the motor. Same motor and gears for "in and out". Polarity of two leads is just switched. Soaking the access zipper with WD40 will help it move but you are still going to break off the pull tab at which time a small loop pick works well. Make sure you have a good battery connected in addition to powering your convertor.

Petethescot
Explorer
Explorer
Itinerant1 wrote:
Petethescot wrote:
Itinerant1 wrote:
Check the motor cogs, I think there is a share pin. I haven't had problems with mine... yet. ๐Ÿ˜‰


The thing is when I try to bring it it the power sounds weak but it does eventually come on all the way so donโ€™t see it being shear pin. Just takes multiple stop and starts.


Are you hooked to shore power doing this or off battery?


Shore power, but I believe the slide outs should work on 12 volt.

Itinerant1
Explorer
Explorer
Petethescot wrote:
Itinerant1 wrote:
Check the motor cogs, I think there is a share pin. I haven't had problems with mine... yet. ๐Ÿ˜‰


The thing is when I try to bring it it the power sounds weak but it does eventually come on all the way so donโ€™t see it being shear pin. Just takes multiple stop and starts.


Are you hooked to shore power doing this or off battery?
12v 500ah, 20 cells_ 4s5p (GBS LFMP battery system). 8 CTI 160 watt panels (1,280 watts)2s4p,Panels mounted flat. Magnum PT100 SCC, Magnum 3012 hybrid inverter, ME-ARC 50. Installed 4/2016 been on 24/7/365, daily 35-45% DOD 2,500+ partial cycles.