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Propane inline Tee

ksmoody
Explorer
Explorer
I would like to install a brass propane tee on my rig between the tank and the regulator to connect a BBQ.
I don't know what type of thread connection to get. I have seen ones that are POL or ACME thread. I don't know the difference between those two types.
I have a 2008 Fleetwood Tioga.
15 REPLIES 15

woodworker414
Explorer
Explorer
Eastpointe, IT SURE DOES
Brenda and Bill
2020 Lance 1172, our traveling rig
2013 Heartland Landmark Mesa, 40', fifth wheel, we keep at our snowbird home in central FL, Bushnell, FL.
2014 Chevy Silverado LTZ 3500HD, CC, 4x4, LB, duals, DuraMax

Jaxom
Explorer
Explorer
Don't forget that some of the fittings have left-hand threads. "Usually" if the hex nut has grooves cut into the flats that means left-hand threads, "Righty Loosie & Lefty Tightie"

That sure sound awkward!
Jerry
2015 Jayco Seneca 36FK
2011 Jeep Wrangler Sport 2 door
2011 R & R 20' Aluminum Enclosed Car Hauler
2007 Montrose 16' Aluminum Flatbed ATV Trailer

woodworker414
Explorer
Explorer
Good morning to all from central FL. Snowbirding to the end of the month. Its been a long time since I have been on this site. UUUUMMMMM, I must do better.
What I did: I put the Extend a Stay between the tank shut off and the regulator. Then put a quick disconnect fitting on the Extend a Stay. I can hook the 10' hose to it, run it to the back of tne MH, I have a class C. That end of the hose is connected to a Automatic switch over regulator, which has two ports on it. Now I can have two tank hooked to the system. When one runs empty it automatically switches to the full tank. Don't run out of propane in the middle of the night when using the furnace. I just keep an eye on the tanks and when one is empty and the regulator switched to the full tank, I turn the knob to the side with full tank and now I can take the empty tank and get it refilled. Always have propane in the line When using the bbq pit, I disconnect the tank that is not feeding propane to the line and when done with the bbq pit just hook up the tank back to the system. Been using this for two years now with no issues.
I try to make everything as simple as possible to use. At first I did the one tank hooked to the Extend a Stay, but when I ran out of propane in the middle of the night and the unit got cold because the furnace would not run and I had to go outside and switch over from the stand alone tank to the one on the MH, I decided that something else needed to be done. Did not want any more night time trips to change the tanks over. Works well for me. A frienda and I did the work. With all the fittings, hoses, autoswitch over regulatorand what not, I probably spent $450.00. Well worth the money. My friend who is on the site next to me, uses one tank to hook to the Extend a Stay, and I con't remember how many times this winter here in FL he has run out of propane and had to come outside and turn off the stand a lone tank and turn on the MH tank because the rig got cold. And his wife does not like that. And she certainly makes sure he knows it.:)
Brenda and Bill
2020 Lance 1172, our traveling rig
2013 Heartland Landmark Mesa, 40', fifth wheel, we keep at our snowbird home in central FL, Bushnell, FL.
2014 Chevy Silverado LTZ 3500HD, CC, 4x4, LB, duals, DuraMax

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
To answer the OPs question without personal input, he needs a POL connections coming off the high pressure side of regulator.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

MDKMDK
Explorer
Explorer
klutchdust wrote:
MDKMDK wrote:
If you wanted to have something like this "professionally engineered" where or who would be qualified and who would actually be willing and able to perform the work? An RV dealership? Camping World?
I asked a propane supply outfit for something similar. Wanted to add a shutoff valve to my T connection between the main tank valve and the regulator, so I could turn off the gas to the grill line, without shutting off the gas to the regulator/coach. I asked a major Michigan propane supplier if they would do something like this, and they declined because it was an "RV application". They told me they aren't qualified/certified to work on mobile applications or something like that. They had no problem making me up high pressure hoses/fittings, but wouldn't touch the actual plumbing.



My unit required me to turn off the main valve at the tank, remove the existing line from the tank, screw in the new fitting to the tank and then refasten the gas line to the new fitting. Turn on, s l o w l y and then check for leaks with soapy water. My new hose plugs into a connector that is similar to plugging in an air tool to air line then turning the valve to feed gas into the line.
Got an adjustable wrench and some silicone tape, it's easy. Have you called a mobile RV mechanic? The propane people are overdramatizing this. Don't the propane people go out and hook tanks to people's homes?



If you look closely you can see the regulator was originally connected to the tank.These are all basic gas connectors that a reputable propane service center would carry. If I were to remove this fitting I could easily reconnect the regulator as it is on a rubber line with room to play with. I don't think I actually had to use tape for the fittings, they were taped already and the new fittings are the standard connectors. So, if you can hook a new line to your fuel tank on your BBQ you can hook this up. Checking for leaks is important.
Camping world i would avoid.


That was the plan. My Sunstar had the same setup (except mine was a threaded fitting with a cap, as opposed to your quick connect w/shutoff valve fitting) added by the dealership where I bought it. The same dealer said it would be too difficult to add similar fittings to the 2018 View/Navion model propane plumbing because of the tank location nestled underneath inside the frame, away from the perimeter of the coach. I guess Winnebago had some space available there and though it would be a good idea to put the propane tank there, without adding a BBQ grill pigtail or extend-a-stay adapter and extending it to an exterior storage compartment or other readily accessible location. I can probably get underneath (when the new rig arrives) and have a look at said "very difficult" setup, and assess it for myself. If it does look beyond my limited capabilities, I'm going to have to get it done somewhere, and that is my quandary. The propane shops I've asked won't touch it because it's on a vehicle. (I find that odd)

EDIT: The mobile RV mechanic idea might work, I think there's one around here. Yes, my dealer and the propane people are in drama mode, but probably more like in @$$ covering mode, too. No one wants to take a chance and then getting sued. Yes, they do hook tanks and lines and fittings up to people's houses, as far as I know, which is why I find that one odd. Maybe I can take the rig to the propane guys and have them show me what to do, but I'll actually do the work. Or, at least get them to make the fittings and give me some basics on how to, and what not to do. It's all common sense stuff, but would be nice to have someone with more experience watching/coaching over my shoulder. Thanks for the input.
Mike. Comments are anecdotal or personal opinions, and worth what you paid for them.
2018 (2017 Sprinter Cab Chassis) Navion24V + 2016 Wrangler JKU (sold @ ????)
2016 Sunstar 26HE, V10, 3V, 6 Speed (sold @ 4600 miles)
2002 Roadtrek C190P (sold @ 315,000kms)

klutchdust
Explorer II
Explorer II
enblethen wrote:
I would be installing a factory manufactured item such as Extend a Stay/Flow or Camco unit rather then a home made item.



My piece was put together by a experienced propane sales company VS an extend a stay that is manufactured who knows where. Their website makes no mention of being made in the USA.
Don't understand your post, how it adds anything to the OP issue.

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
I would be installing a factory manufactured item such as Extend a Stay/Flow or Camco unit rather then a home made item.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

ronfisherman
Moderator
Moderator
Installed a extend-a-stay on my RV. Gave hook up to BBQ and allowed hooking up a portable propane tank instead of using the built in tank when parked for more than few days.
Here is a link to the Camco version of the extend-a-stay.
Easy to install and no tape needed. Just check for leaks.
2004 Gulf Stream Endura 6340 D/A SOLD
2012 Chevy Captiva Toad SOLD

klutchdust
Explorer II
Explorer II
MDKMDK wrote:
If you wanted to have something like this "professionally engineered" where or who would be qualified and who would actually be willing and able to perform the work? An RV dealership? Camping World?
I asked a propane supply outfit for something similar. Wanted to add a shutoff valve to my T connection between the main tank valve and the regulator, so I could turn off the gas to the grill line, without shutting off the gas to the regulator/coach. I asked a major Michigan propane supplier if they would do something like this, and they declined because it was an "RV application". They told me they aren't qualified/certified to work on mobile applications or something like that. They had no problem making me up high pressure hoses/fittings, but wouldn't touch the actual plumbing.



My unit required me to turn off the main valve at the tank, remove the existing line from the tank, screw in the new fitting to the tank and then refasten the gas line to the new fitting. Turn on, s l o w l y and then check for leaks with soapy water. My new hose plugs into a connector that is similar to plugging in an air tool to air line then turning the valve to feed gas into the line.
Got an adjustable wrench and some silicone tape, it's easy. Have you called a mobile RV mechanic? The propane people are overdramatizing this. Don't the propane people go out and hook tanks to people's homes?



If you look closely you can see the regulator was originally connected to the tank.These are all basic gas connectors that a reputable propane service center would carry. If I were to remove this fitting I could easily reconnect the regulator as it is on a rubber line with room to play with. I don't think I actually had to use tape for the fittings, they were taped already and the new fittings are the standard connectors. So, if you can hook a new line to your fuel tank on your BBQ you can hook this up. Checking for leaks is important.
Camping world i would avoid.

MDKMDK
Explorer
Explorer
If you wanted to have something like this "professionally engineered" where or who would be qualified and who would actually be willing and able to perform the work? An RV dealership? Camping World?
I asked a propane supply outfit for something similar. Wanted to add a shutoff valve to my T connection between the main tank valve and the regulator, so I could turn off the gas to the grill line, without shutting off the gas to the regulator/coach. I asked a major Michigan propane supplier if they would do something like this, and they declined because it was an "RV application". They told me they aren't qualified/certified to work on mobile applications or something like that. They had no problem making me up high pressure hoses/fittings, but wouldn't touch the actual plumbing.
Mike. Comments are anecdotal or personal opinions, and worth what you paid for them.
2018 (2017 Sprinter Cab Chassis) Navion24V + 2016 Wrangler JKU (sold @ ????)
2016 Sunstar 26HE, V10, 3V, 6 Speed (sold @ 4600 miles)
2002 Roadtrek C190P (sold @ 315,000kms)

klutchdust
Explorer II
Explorer II
pnichols wrote:
It must be that your RV's built-in propane tank is on the same side as the awning so that you can BBQ where all the outside activity is?

Our propane tank isn't on that side, so we have to carry along separate tanks for the BBQ and fire pit so that we can use them around the awning area.


with the 25 foot line I hook it to the tank then toss it under the coach and have plenty of room to hook to the BBQ. My lines are always taped off to prevent debris from getting in them.

pigman1
Explorer
Explorer
The first thing you need to do is to split the line where you want to install your T so you can see what you need. If you pull the pipe on the upstream end of your regulator, it's probably a 1/2" pipe thread. If you pull the connection from between your propane tank shutoff valve and the pipe to the regulator, it MAY be a pipe thread or it may be a propane spud or even an inverted flare fitting. It all depends on how your manufacturer put it together. Once you get it split you'll be able to tell. All possible fittings should be available in a good hardware store, auto supply store or at a propane dealer.

We've done what you want to do, but mine is set up to feed propane from a 5 gal BBQ type bottle to the rig so I don't have to pack the rig up to go into town when I need propane. Just be sure you put a propane valve just downstream of your new T to the BBQ. That way if your hose springs a leak, it can be isolated from your rig propane system.
Pigman & Piglady
2013 Tiffin Allegro Bus 43' QGP
2011 Chevy Silverado 1500
SMI Air Force One toad brake
Street Atlas USA Plus

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
It must be that your RV's built-in propane tank is on the same side as the awning so that you can BBQ where all the outside activity is?

Our propane tank isn't on that side, so we have to carry along separate tanks for the BBQ and firepit so that we can use them around the awning area.
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

klutchdust
Explorer II
Explorer II
I had my local propane dealer make me one and a 25 foot hose. It works well. When finished I turn the fuel off at the tank and let the remaining fuel burn off before disconnecting. I stored my line in the compartment in the rear of the coach and the odor of the fuel is evident each time I open the compartment door. I even taped over the ends before I put it inside to prevent any dirt or spider contamination that would clog the hose. I have the BBQ stored under the dinette but that hasn't been an issue. Maybe because the BBQ is in a plastic bag?