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Updating CO/Propane/Smoke detectors/alarms

silverbullet555
Explorer
Explorer
Before we use the new to us camper, I want to upgrade/update the detectors/alarms.

It currently has a CO alarm which is likely a 1995 version. Other than that, it has nothing.

I plan to have a CO, a propane, and a smoke alarm in the unit in addition to replacing the fire extinguisher and adding a second one in the cabover area.

I plan to hardwire the CO detector in when I replace the one that is there and whatever I buy, it will have battery backup.

I plan to add a propane/CO detector down along the floor somewhere near the appliances. This is really for propane, but if I am installing, I might as well make it a dual purpose. I was planning to hardwire this one in as well and ensure it is one with a battery backup.

For the smoke alarm, I figured one of the sealed ones that you just replace after it's life would make more sense than trying to run wires in the ceiling. If I placed it next to a light fixture though, getting power wouldn't be that tough.

Anything I might not be considering in this plan?
1995 Northland Grizzly 860. 2355 lbs of purple goodness! Sold
2005 Lance 845 - Baby Bertha
2007 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Classic CC SB 4WD
Torklift mounts
Torklift superhitch
Hellwig swaybar and 3500lb helper springs
2002 Cobalt 226 "Baby Blue"
13 REPLIES 13

JimK-NY
Explorer II
Explorer II
rlw999 wrote:


My Safe-T-Alert combo CO/Propane detector is rated at 108 mA nominal current draw. So at that rate it will draw around 2.6 AH/day or 36 AH in 2 weeks.

https://www.stadealer.com/dual-co--lp-gas-alarms.html


Electronic devices are typically rated at peak power which for an alarm means with the alarm sounding. Operating currents without the alarm sounding are more likely to be 0.0l - 0.02 amp. Here is an example with a typical "supply current" of 17 mA, equals 0.017 A. That is equivalent to 12 AH/month. Many batteries can lose more than that with no draw.
https://rvsafealarm.com/files/RVSafe_Manual.pdf

rlw999
Explorer
Explorer
JimK-NY wrote:
srschang wrote:
Keep in mind that a hardwired 12v detector will constantly draw on the battery. Not a lot, but enough to kill a battery in a couple weeks.


Absolutely NOT.

The typical RV propane detector pulls about 10 milliamps. That is 0.01 amps or 0.24 AH/day. So it will pull about 40 AH in 6 months. That is about a 50% draw on a single small RV battery.


My Safe-T-Alert combo CO/Propane detector is rated at 108 mA nominal current draw. So at that rate it will draw around 2.6 AH/day or 36 AH in 2 weeks.

https://www.stadealer.com/dual-co--lp-gas-alarms.html

bookmaker
Explorer
Explorer
I just replaced my Safe T Alert combo CO/propane detector. It started beeping and light flashing. When I removed it, it was installed dated in 2009. They are supposed to be replaced no later than 5 years after installation.

On the replacement, I wrote the install date on the face with a silver felt tip pen.

Dale
Dale & Rose Cavin, Marianna, FL
2004 Dodge Laramie dually , Cummins diesel
2010 Lance 1181
Previous:
2004 Lance 1121 (lost to hurricane Michael 10/10/18)

silverbullet555
Explorer
Explorer
jimh425 wrote:
I like the hardwired detectors for propane/CO. I don’t think you actually need a 5’ distance. Mine is more like two feet from the stove top and below it. Sure, it’s possible to get a false detect, but that hasn’t really been an issue more than once/twice in 14 years. Mine is mounted in the wall that extends from the bathroom.

I’m in the habit of turning the disconnect if the TC is not plugged in.


Thanks for that feedback. I initially wanted to place it near the floor not far from the stove and heater as that is where gas is likely to go first.
1995 Northland Grizzly 860. 2355 lbs of purple goodness! Sold
2005 Lance 845 - Baby Bertha
2007 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Classic CC SB 4WD
Torklift mounts
Torklift superhitch
Hellwig swaybar and 3500lb helper springs
2002 Cobalt 226 "Baby Blue"

srschang
Nomad
Nomad
JimK-NY wrote:
srschang wrote:
Keep in mind that a hardwired 12v detector will constantly draw on the battery. Not a lot, but enough to kill a battery in a couple weeks.


Absolutely NOT.

The typical RV propane detector pulls about 10 milliamps. That is 0.01 amps or 0.24 AH/day. So it will pull about 40 AH in 6 months. That is about a 50% draw on a single small RV battery.


Well, my propane detector, CO2 detector, and smoke detector pull .2 amps combined. So 5 Ah per day, dead battery in a couple weeks.


2022 Ram 3500 Dually Crewcab Longbed Cummins, 2019 Northstar 12 STC

JimK-NY
Explorer II
Explorer II
srschang wrote:
Keep in mind that a hardwired 12v detector will constantly draw on the battery. Not a lot, but enough to kill a battery in a couple weeks.


Absolutely NOT.

The typical RV propane detector pulls about 10 milliamps. That is 0.01 amps or 0.24 AH/day. So it will pull about 40 AH in 6 months. That is about a 50% draw on a single small RV battery.

jimh406
Explorer III
Explorer III
I like the hardwired detectors for propane/CO. I don’t think you actually need a 5’ distance. Mine is more like two feet from the stove top and below it. Sure, it’s possible to get a false detect, but that hasn’t really been an issue more than once/twice in 14 years. Mine is mounted in the wall that extends from the bathroom.

I’m in the habit of turning the disconnect if the TC is not plugged in.

'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.

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silverbullet555
Explorer
Explorer
srschang wrote:
Keep in mind that a hardwired 12v detector will constantly draw on the battery. Not a lot, but enough to kill a battery in a couple weeks.


Yeah. I usually disconnect the battery when we are home which would be fine. Good reminder though.I have a battery CO detector. I really wanted the propane too as I am a little OCD about the propane piece too.

The mounting location is more challenging. Propane is heavy, but finding somewhere to mount that is more than 5' from an appliance and low in the camper has proven tough. I didn't realize the 5' limitation when I bought the item and opened it.

Planning to install a small marine battery switch to make that disconnect easier in the future.
1995 Northland Grizzly 860. 2355 lbs of purple goodness! Sold
2005 Lance 845 - Baby Bertha
2007 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Classic CC SB 4WD
Torklift mounts
Torklift superhitch
Hellwig swaybar and 3500lb helper springs
2002 Cobalt 226 "Baby Blue"

srschang
Nomad
Nomad
Keep in mind that a hardwired 12v detector will constantly draw on the battery. Not a lot, but enough to kill a battery in a couple weeks.


2022 Ram 3500 Dually Crewcab Longbed Cummins, 2019 Northstar 12 STC

silverbullet555
Explorer
Explorer
corvettekent wrote:
So when you say that you want to hardwire these in you are talking about 12 volt or 120 volt? The propane detector is 12 volt and wired into the 12 volt batteries in the RV. For the CO I got one with a 10 year battery.


12V. Maybe it is all a moot point since they expire anyway.
1995 Northland Grizzly 860. 2355 lbs of purple goodness! Sold
2005 Lance 845 - Baby Bertha
2007 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Classic CC SB 4WD
Torklift mounts
Torklift superhitch
Hellwig swaybar and 3500lb helper springs
2002 Cobalt 226 "Baby Blue"

corvettekent
Explorer
Explorer
So when you say that you want to hardwire these in you are talking about 12 volt or 120 volt? The propane detector is 12 volt and wired into the 12 volt batteries in the RV. For the CO I got one with a 10 year battery.
2022 Silverado 3500 High Country CC/LB, SRW, L5P. B&W Companion Hitch with pucks. Hadley air horns.

2004 32' Carriage 5th wheel. 860 watts of solar MPPT, two SOK 206 ah LiFePO4 batteries. Samlex 2,000 watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter.

silverbullet555
Explorer
Explorer
JimK-NY wrote:
A combination CO/propane detector goes for about $40. They need to be replaced every few years once they start to give false alarms. I have no idea about a separate battery backup. My is hardwired and I do not remember seeing a choice for one with a separate battery.

In addition to the wired in detector, I have a separate CO detector. It is a small unit that runs on a couple of AA batteries. There is a low battery beep, but I replace them every year before that starts. I have given up on a smoke detector. The TC is just too small and it gives an alarm almost every time I cook regardless of the location.


Thanks for the insight on the smoke alarm. Curious, have they been RV specific smoke alarms or HH units? I'm wondering if they make them differently to compensate for the enclosed space.
1995 Northland Grizzly 860. 2355 lbs of purple goodness! Sold
2005 Lance 845 - Baby Bertha
2007 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Classic CC SB 4WD
Torklift mounts
Torklift superhitch
Hellwig swaybar and 3500lb helper springs
2002 Cobalt 226 "Baby Blue"

JimK-NY
Explorer II
Explorer II
A combination CO/propane detector goes for about $40. They need to be replaced every few years once they start to give false alarms. I have no idea about a separate battery backup. My is hardwired and I do not remember seeing a choice for one with a separate battery.

In addition to the wired in detector, I have a separate CO detector. It is a small unit that runs on a couple of AA batteries. There is a low battery beep, but I replace them every year before that starts. I have given up on a smoke detector. The TC is just too small and it gives an alarm almost every time I cook regardless of the location.