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Looking for ideas on how to Roll up/store 50 amp cord

mrad
Explorer II
Explorer II
I'm looking for ways to wrap up store my 40' 50 amp power cord. My last TT had a 30' 30 amp cord that easily fit in my 18" by 2.5' bin. The new cord does not fit so well. I'm looking for other ideas on how to easily roll it up and store it. Any suggestions?























my
47 REPLIES 47

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Most folks either use a cord reel (powered) or a "tub" like a wash tub or a muck out tub (Wash is bigger .

I just coiled it like a garden hose about 2' circle
Now.. I full timed so I did not put it in the storage bay. I stowed it in the passenger or rear seat of the car. Even cold it often went in there. If it was too stiff to coil I took it inside and laid it on the floor to warm up while I drove to next CG.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
I don't have a transfer switch in mine so cord it permanently attached at one end. When I plug in mostly to recharge batteries I keep the coils in the cord when I plug in. When I disconnect I just follow the natural coils in the cord and it coils up nicely. It is kind of like coiling a garden hose flat or a heavy rope each coil needs a slight twist to lay flat for the first time.

ol_Bombero-JC
Explorer
Explorer
down home wrote:
The factory one, the good one, is heavy and stiff. But...make one lop, on arm turn the other way for the next loop and so on on your off arm. You will have a strong arm by season's end if you extend the whole cord, and coil back up. Next coach will have the cord, water and sewer on powered reels. It makes things easier f the cord is clean. If it has been down in the dirt or gravel or rain, it gets cleaned by hose or just wiped clean, by wife as it is retrieved.


"The factory one, the good one....."

It's heavy and stiff 'cause it's the cheapest one the factory bean counters could find & supply with the RV!!..:S

Should lop off their heads, LOL.

1. Purchase a quality cord!

2. Cheap & easy way to store your old or the new one - laundry tub, milk style plastic box, etc.

3. Best way is a powered 12V cord reel with your *new* more flexible cord. Pull out what you need - push button to rewind.

:C..:W..:)

~

down_home
Explorer
Explorer
The factory one, the good one, is heavy and stiff. But...make one lop, on arm turn the other way for the next loop and so on on your off arm. You will have a strong arm by season's end if you extend the whole cord, and coil back up. Next coach will have the cord, water and sewer on powered reels. It makes things easier f the cord is clean. If it has been down in the dirt or gravel or rain, it gets cleaned by hose or just wiped clean, by wife as it is retrieved.

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
ford truck guy wrote:
I posted my issue with the Camco ends in another threadโ€ฆ.

Long story short, I burnt up 1 lag and had an issue Labor Day weekendโ€ฆ If and WHEN I replace the cable, Iโ€™ll look for better connections


Sorry for your troubles, but burned plugs happen a lot with RVs, it isn't just camco brand either, OEM molded plugs melt too.

See THIS THREAD

The problem stems from the fact that campgrounds shore power sockets are often extremely wornout and are in need of replacement.

The constant plug/unplug motions wears the socket contacts, sometimes may weaken the spring action in the contacts along with excessive heating from constant heavy loads, arcing of the contacts because folks do not turn off the main breaker before plugging in or unplugging and natural corrosion of the contacts from moist outdoor air exposure.

You can buy non camco 50A stove plugs in your local Home Depot or Lowes but you will find they are of the same construction as the Camco version. Not to mention the non Camco versions are typically "universal" plugs that cam be configured for several different sockets which I do not care for since it means the pins fit loose in the plastic part of the plug. Just makes it feel cheap (and they are not exactly cheap to buy).

In reality, a RV plug is pretty much sacrificial, it will wear out and replacement most likely will be eventually needed.

There isn't much you can do about the campgrounds socket issues but you can use the best practices of always flipping the main breaker off before plugging in or unplugging. That reduces the wear on the socket and your plug be removing a heavy arc over from a heavy load running.

You can also plug/unplug your plug a few times before turning on the main breaker. This action can help to clean/shine the socket connections some which reduces connection resistance from moisture corrosion and previous arcing.

Internally on any replacement plug, you should periodically check the clamps that hold the wire to the pins, those clamps can over time with heating and cooling and wire movement can creep loose or you may not have gotten them tight enough in the first place leading to a poor electrical connection that overheats under heavy loads.

In reality, 50A plugs and sockets were originally meant for one time plug in devices like electric stoves in a environmentally stable home, not so much for RV use..

I posted my issue with the Camco ends in another threadโ€ฆ.

Long story short, I burnt up 1 lag and had an issue Labor Day weekendโ€ฆ If and WHEN I replace the cable, Iโ€™ll look for better connections
Me-Her-the kids
2020 Ford F350 SD 6.7
2020 Redwood 3991RD Garnet

blofgren
Explorer
Explorer
Cummins12V98 wrote:
^^^^^ YEP those are the ends. Thanks for posting the pics.


Those are the ends I used as well. I bought the cable off of Ebay.
2013 Ram 3500 Megacab DRW Laramie 4x4, 6.7L Cummins, G56, 3.73, Maximum Steel, black lthr, B&W RVK3670 hitch, Retrax, Linex, and a bunch of options incl. cargo camera
2008 Corsair Excella Platinum 34.5 CKTS fifth wheel with winter package & disc brakes

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
RRinNFla wrote:
OP didnโ€™t say if they had a trailer or MH.

I use a sturdy laundry basket, then store it in the bed of my pickup. That makes it easily accessible at the next stop.

I am going to look into the SOOW option.


I prefer the 6/3 & 8/1 SOW because it's smaller diameter. Mine shown came from a Construction 50A temp power cord. Good enough for Commercial Construction good enough for the RV world!!!


2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
RRinNFla wrote:
OP didnโ€™t say if they had a trailer or MH.

I use a sturdy laundry basket, then store it in the bed of my pickup. That makes it easily accessible at the next stop.

I am going to look into the SOOW option.


I would store it in a fully closed and lockable non see through box bolted to the bed if I was going to leave wire in a open bed of a pickup..

Thieves love when folks make something valuable they can sell for scrap visible and easy pickens and copper wire is a very popular item they go for.

RRinNFla
Explorer
Explorer
OP didnโ€™t say if they had a trailer or MH.

I use a sturdy laundry basket, then store it in the bed of my pickup. That makes it easily accessible at the next stop.

I am going to look into the SOOW option.
Richard

2015 Prime Time Crusader 295RLT
2008 Ford F250 V10 (Gas), EC, SB, 4X4

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
SUMRX4 wrote:


Well I have located the wire and it's not as expensive as I thought it may be. (thanks for the suggestions ) My question is about the Camco ends that were recommended. Seems the reviews are about many of them overheating and melting over time. Plus they aren't waterproof. Any suggestions for a better ends?
Curious if the 'Meltdowns' and simply because folks don't know how to sufficiently tighten an wire terminal?



Camco ends should be fine, the blades are made to standards set by NEC/UL to fit other 50A connections. Thickness, width of the blades have to be made to a set standard in order to get approvals to stick UL label on them.

Meltdowns can happen with ANY plug or socket if you are drawing max rating or above max rating and if the socket and/or plug have been damaged by corrosion and/or by not turning off breakers and plugging in or removing plugs under a heavy load causing heavy arcs across the contacts.

Campground sockets can also be heavily corroded by arcing and the socket spring tension can be weakened over time from constant plug/unplug cycles and/or heavy loads.

As far as reviews goes, I ignore the glowing 5 star and the slamming 1 star reviews. I settle on the reviews which are in the middle, those tend to be the more honest with less of an axe to grind or nothing to gain..

I would not sweat using the Camco ends and if you do have one that gets damaged over time, just replace it and go on..

As far as being waterproof goes, well your connection with 1 piece molded on ends laying out on the damp/wet ground isn't waterproof either.

The fix is simple, place connection on a short board to keep the connector from sitting on the ground, then cover connection with a small bucket.

They also sell waterproof boxes purposely designed for temporary electrical connections with extension cords.

Like THIS SEARCH

Of course you would have to verify the box you selected will fit the connectors.

Veebyes
Explorer II
Explorer II
Laundry basket. Enough of female end is left out to reach shore power input. Required amount of pedestal end is pulled out of basket.
Boat: 32' 1996 Albin 32+2, single Cummins 315hp
40+ night per year overnighter

2007 Alpenlite 34RLR
2006 Chevy 3500 LT, CC,LB 6.6L Diesel

Ham Radio: VP9KL, IRLP node 7995

dodge_guy
Explorer
Explorer
I just loop mine in my hand and place it in the storage compartment. No bin needed. Because of its weight itโ€™s stays looped. I keep all my electrai l cords in the same compartment, even the cable line.
No need to complicate it with an extra bin.
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
^^^^^ YEP those are the ends. Thanks for posting the pics.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD