โJan-18-2023 03:22 PM
โFeb-05-2023 02:05 PM
S Davis wrote:Removing the back seat opens up a lot more space. We travel with a space-challenged TC, so the entire back seat area becomes a critical storage asset. If we lost this space we'd be forced to tow a trailer--for us, absolutely no fun.
I removed the rear seat in my crew cab and made the enclosure. So have room for the two 280ah batteries inverter and associated wiring.
โFeb-05-2023 11:46 AM
โFeb-05-2023 11:41 AM
โFeb-05-2023 11:36 AM
S Davis wrote:It only took us 10 min. and a few short wires to install a BI on the input of our dc to dc charger. Agree, having the ability to run our dc to dc charger in the background, unattended, 24/7, with zero concerns is nice.otrfun wrote:I know but having the charger just work without babysitting it is priceless, especially for LifeP04 batteries. Next step is a dedicated alternater.S Davis wrote:Nice to have that capability built-in. I don't understand why all dc to dc charger manufacturers don't include the equivalent of a Battery Isolator (BI) or Automatic Charging Relay (ACR) with their units. It's a basic requirement for operating a dc to dc charger in the vast majority of installations.
My Redarc 50amp just senses the voltage increase from the alternator and turns on, no trigger wire.
The 50a Redarc dc to dc charger is a nice unit, built like a tank. See a number of off-roaders using them.
One big caveat though, they cost $500+. One could potentially purchase & stack 4, 40a Renogy dc to dc chargers for 160a of output for $519. Of course, this would require a dedicated, high capacity alternator to provide the necessary current. I've been told Renogy doesn't recommend stacking (connecting in parallel), but I've stacked 2 of them with no issues.
โFeb-05-2023 09:38 AM
otrfun wrote:S Davis wrote:Nice to have that capability built-in. I don't understand why all dc to dc charger manufacturers don't include the equivalent of a Battery Isolator (BI) or Automatic Charging Relay (ACR) with their units. It's a basic requirement for operating a dc to dc charger in the vast majority of installations.
My Redarc 50amp just senses the voltage increase from the alternator and turns on, no trigger wire.
The 50a Redarc dc to dc charger is a nice unit, built like a tank. See a number of off-roaders using them.
One big caveat though, they cost $500+. One could potentially purchase & stack 4, 40a Renogy dc to dc chargers for 160a of output for $519. Of course, this would require a dedicated, high capacity alternator to provide the necessary current. I've been told Renogy doesn't recommend stacking (connecting in parallel), but I've stacked 2 of them with no issues.
โFeb-05-2023 06:35 AM
otrfun wrote:S Davis wrote:Nice to have that capability built-in. I don't understand why all dc to dc charger manufacturers don't include the equivalent of a Battery Isolator (BI) or Automatic Charging Relay (ACR) with their units. It's a basic requirement for operating a dc to dc charger in the vast majority of installations.
My Redarc 50amp just senses the voltage increase from the alternator and turns on, no trigger wire.
The 50a Redarc dc to dc charger is a nice unit, built like a tank. See a number of off-roaders using them.
One big caveat though, they cost $500+. One could potentially purchase & stack 4, 40a Renogy dc to dc chargers for 160a of output for $519. Of course, this would require a dedicated, high capacity alternator to provide the necessary current. I've been told Renogy doesn't recommend stacking (connecting in parallel), but I've stacked 2 of them with no issues.
โFeb-05-2023 06:24 AM
S Davis wrote:Nice to have that capability built-in. I don't understand why all dc to dc charger manufacturers don't include the equivalent of a Battery Isolator (BI) or Automatic Charging Relay (ACR) with their units. It's a basic requirement for operating a dc to dc charger in the vast majority of installations.
My Redarc 50amp just senses the voltage increase from the alternator and turns on, no trigger wire.
โFeb-04-2023 07:21 PM
โFeb-01-2023 09:09 PM
LaneW wrote:Grit dog wrote:
You want to connect to the opposite terminal on the ACR from the one that goes to the batteries like I said earlier. But the easy way to figure it out is check continuity of the existing wiring.
Mine has 4 awg on both the line and load terminals - and yet, the wire from the truck is only 8awg. Odd.
But I am of the understanding that I should remove the ACR completely and replace it with this MPPT/DC-DC charger. If so, I would just move the load cables from the ACR to the charger and run a new 4 or 6 awg directly from the tuck battery straight to the line, or incoming, terminal on the charger. Am I misunderstanding?
โFeb-01-2023 05:22 PM
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli wrote:To prevent this from happening you can use a battery isolator (BI) which can be installed in the truck or the truck camper, or anywhere in between. Lot easier to install vs. running a trigger wire from the alternator/engine all the way to the dc to dc charger. Takes very little wire/cable to connect a BI.Bedlam wrote:I was just thinking, there could be a condition where you're sitting in the Truck, key on, engine off, and the DC DC charger is pumping 30 amps from the truck battery back to the TC batteries. That could be a recipe for a dead battery . . .
I believe Ford is still the only one with switched power at the trailer plug.
โJan-29-2023 06:50 AM
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli wrote:StirCrazy wrote:Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli wrote:Bedlam wrote:
I believe Ford is still the only one with switched power at the trailer plug.
I was just thinking, there could be a condition where you're sitting in the Truck, key on, engine off, and the DC DC charger is pumping 30 amps from the truck battery back to the TC batteries. That could be a recipe for a dead battery. Quartzite has been a lot of fun. Truck Camper rally starts next week. Hope to see some RV.netters there.
not if you hook up the trigger wire properly to a source that is only hot when the engine is running like the altanator.
Steve
The battery a d alternator are connected so I believe the alternator will always look to be live at minimum battery voltage. If that is enough to trigger the Orion harder to activate, I'll have to test for that. I'll make a point t to do that at the rally this co.i g week.
โJan-28-2023 11:30 AM
StirCrazy wrote:Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli wrote:Bedlam wrote:
I believe Ford is still the only one with switched power at the trailer plug.
I was just thinking, there could be a condition where you're sitting in the Truck, key on, engine off, and the DC DC charger is pumping 30 amps from the truck battery back to the TC batteries. That could be a recipe for a dead battery. Quartzite has been a lot of fun. Truck Camper rally starts next week. Hope to see some RV.netters there.
not if you hook up the trigger wire properly to a source that is only hot when the engine is running like the altanator.
Steve
โJan-28-2023 07:41 AM
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli wrote:Bedlam wrote:
I believe Ford is still the only one with switched power at the trailer plug.
I was just thinking, there could be a condition where you're sitting in the Truck, key on, engine off, and the DC DC charger is pumping 30 amps from the truck battery back to the TC batteries. That could be a recipe for a dead battery. Quartzite has been a lot of fun. Truck Camper rally starts next week. Hope to see some RV.netters there.
โJan-27-2023 11:03 AM
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli wrote:Bedlam wrote:
I believe Ford is still the only one with switched power at the trailer plug.
I was just thinking, there could be a condition where you're sitting in the Truck, key on, engine off, and the DC DC charger is pumping 30 amps from the truck battery back to the TC batteries. That could be a recipe for a dead battery. .