Weight Distribution Shank....2.5" receiver end X 18" Long

[Baja_Man]

RE:

'23 GMC 3500 4X4, Crew Cab standard bed
2.5" Receiver



I finally got around to setting up my travel trailer and Equalizer WD hitch.

Since my new truck has a 2.5" receiver, I purchased an Equalizer brand shank that is 2.5" on receiver end with a 3" drop and 7" rise. It's 12" long. My tailgate hits the electric jack when I attempt to lower tailgate. Tailgate must be taller than my previous 2003 Ford F350, as I was able to lower tailgate with a 12" long shank on that truck. It may also be that the Ford was a 4X2, or a combination of the two.

Can't seem to source a 2.5" shank that is 18" long, in any drop/rise format. I can find 18” length, but only for 2” receivers.

Anyone run into this issue? What did you do?

Were you able to source a 2.5" receiver end that is 18" long? If so, please share.

I considered using the 2.5” to 2” reducer that came with my truck and purchase the 2”x 18” long shank but have heard that the reducers can oblong or egg shape the truck's receiver from the slop and constant movement when towing heavy trailers.


Thoughts?

Thanks!

[whjco]

Grit dog wrote:
Reducer sleeve will be a long term bad idea, but whatever. Knock yourself out.

How so? My 2015 Ram 2500 came with a reducer sleeve and I use two different 2" weight distribution inserts on a fairly regular basis. I now have 135,000 miles on the truck and have never had any issues.

Bill J., Lexington, KY

[jaycocamprs]

Take a 2" shank and weld 2' wide 1/4 thick strips down all 4 sides. It's now 2.5 inches.

[Blazing_Zippers]

I've used a 2 inch extended hitch shank with an adaptor to fit a 2.5 hitch on two Ram trucks. We've got maybe 30,000 miles on this set up with no issues.
Our Outdoor RV trailer has a high hitch coupling and also the tailgate wouldn't drop down without hitting the jack---now, it's all good.

[JBarca]

Huntindog wrote:
john, I am pretty sure that he is talking about the EQUALIZER brand components wich is not a standard WD hitch. Your Reese is a standard WD hitch.

Hi Huntingdog,

Yes, true maybe. I was commenting only about the shank; the Reese shank goes from 2 1/2" down to 2" at the hitchhead. It can be an option as long as the width and hitch head hole spacing work out.

But, if his hitch head uses a washer stack and pin setup for the hitch head tilt, the Reese cast steel shank will not work. The head tilt adjusting pin will fall into the cast slot in the center of the 2" wide portion.

Thanks

John

[Huntindog]

Huntindog wrote:

Baja Man wrote:
RE:

'23 GMC 3500 4X4, Crew Cab standard bed
2.5" Receiver



I finally got around to setting up my travel trailer and Equalizer WD hitch.

Since my new truck has a 2.5" receiver, I purchased an Equalizer brand shank that is 2.5" on receiver end with a 3" drop and 7" rise. It's 12" long. My tailgate hits the electric jack when I attempt to lower tailgate. Tailgate must be taller than my previous 2003 Ford F350, as I was able to lower tailgate with a 12" long shank on that truck. It may also be that the Ford was a 4X2, or a combination of the two.

Can't seem to source a 2.5" shank that is 18" long, in any drop/rise format. I can find 18” length, but only for 2” receivers.

Anyone run into this issue? What did you do?

Were you able to source a 2.5" receiver end that is 18" long? If so, please share.

I considered using the 2.5” to 2” reducer that came with my truck and purchase the 2”x 18” long shank but have heard that the reducers can oblong or egg shape the truck's receiver from the slop and constant movement when towing heavy trailers.


Thoughts?

Thanks!

I used the Equalizer 18" 2" bar on my 2011 Silverado dually with the 14K Equalizer hitch towing a 34' 11,500# TT for ten years and over 50,000 miles using the reducer. No issues at all. Now what will oblong the hitch hole is using a bent hitch pin, or any worn pin. When the bars are under tension, there is NO slop in the reciever.
The 2" bar can be an advantage in the unlikely event you need to tow it with a different vehicle that has a 2" reciever. Rare, but it comes up here on the forum now and then. On a related note: That 18" Equalizer bar is made of a higher grade of steel and is rated to at least 14K

john, I am pretty sure that he is talking about the EQUALIZER brand components wich is not a standard WD hitch. Your Reese is a standard WD hitch.

[Huntindog]

Baja Man wrote:
RE:

'23 GMC 3500 4X4, Crew Cab standard bed
2.5" Receiver



I finally got around to setting up my travel trailer and Equalizer WD hitch.

Since my new truck has a 2.5" receiver, I purchased an Equalizer brand shank that is 2.5" on receiver end with a 3" drop and 7" rise. It's 12" long. My tailgate hits the electric jack when I attempt to lower tailgate. Tailgate must be taller than my previous 2003 Ford F350, as I was able to lower tailgate with a 12" long shank on that truck. It may also be that the Ford was a 4X2, or a combination of the two.

Can't seem to source a 2.5" shank that is 18" long, in any drop/rise format. I can find 18” length, but only for 2” receivers.

Anyone run into this issue? What did you do?

Were you able to source a 2.5" receiver end that is 18" long? If so, please share.

I considered using the 2.5” to 2” reducer that came with my truck and purchase the 2”x 18” long shank but have heard that the reducers can oblong or egg shape the truck's receiver from the slop and constant movement when towing heavy trailers.


Thoughts?

Thanks!

I used the Equalizer 18" 2" bar on my 2011 Silverado dually with the 14K Equalizer hitch towing a 34' 11,500# TT for ten years and over 50,000 miles using the reducer. No issues at all. Now what will oblong the hitch hole is using a bent hitch pin, or any worn pin. When the bars are under tension, there is NO slop in the reciever.
The 2" bar can be an advantage in the unlikely event you need to tow it with a different vehicle that has a 2" reciever. Rare, but it comes up here on the forum now and then. On a related note: That 18" Equalizer bar is made of a higher grade of steel and is rated to at least 14K

On edit: I just looked up your TT. It is pretty light. You will have zero issues if you take my advice,as my TT was a quite a bit heavier/longer and it worked great.

[JBarca]

Baja Man wrote:
RE:

'23 GMC 3500 4X4, Crew Cab standard bed
2.5" Receiver



I finally got around to setting up my travel trailer and Equalizer WD hitch.

Since my new truck has a 2.5" receiver, I purchased an Equalizer brand shank that is 2.5" on receiver end with a 3" drop and 7" rise. It's 12" long. My tailgate hits the electric jack when I attempt to lower tailgate. Tailgate must be taller than my previous 2003 Ford F350, as I was able to lower tailgate with a 12" long shank on that truck. It may also be that the Ford was a 4X2, or a combination of the two.

Can't seem to source a 2.5" shank that is 18" long, in any drop/rise format. I can find 18” length, but only for 2” receivers.

Anyone run into this issue? What did you do?

Were you able to source a 2.5" receiver end that is 18" long? If so, please share.

I considered using the 2.5” to 2” reducer that came with my truck and purchase the 2”x 18” long shank but have heard that the reducers can oblong or egg shape the truck's receiver from the slop and constant movement when towing heavy trailers.


Thoughts?

Thanks!

Hi,

This might help as I have two sizes of 2 1/2" shanks that taper down to 2".

First, you are saying a 12" long shank; what on the shank is 12"? The overall length? OR the center distance from the 5/8" pin to the center of the holes the hitch head goes on?

Here is my setup on my 2005 F350.


Here is the Reese 2 1/2" to 2" shank.


Reese part number 54976, the entire shank from end to end is 17 1/2". The distance from the 5/8" pin to the center of the WD head holes is 11 1/2".

I also have the 6" drop shank that is 2 1/2" to 2". Reese part number 54977. It also is 11 1/2" from the 5/8" pin to the WD head bolts.






On my F350, the tailgate does not hit the power tongue jack on either shank. I miss on a Barker 3,500 ball screw power jack and the Atwood 3,500 ball screw jack that is no longer made.

The 2 1/2" adapter to 2". On the Reese system, when that adapter is used, they reduce the allowable tongue weight from 1,700# down to 1,200# max. Yes, the longer 2 1/2" pin is part of the derating.

Will the 11 1/2" 5/8 pin to WD holes help you? Curt makes one, but it is only 8" from the 5/8" pin to WD holes.

Hope this helps

John

[Baja_Man]

I don't like using the sleeve as a long term fix. Not sure a longer sleeve would make much difference.

Changing the hitch out is no easy or cheap task. Talked to CURT....the new GM receivers are part of the bumper system and all connects to frame. Aftermarket bumper brackets would be needed to add an aftermarket hitch.

I could try aftermarket sleeves to see if they fit any tighter.

I could have plates welded on the 2" shank to build it up to fit the 2.5" receiver. That may be the best option for a long term fix.

[QCMan]

Here is a fairly easy fix. Get a reducer made that is the full length of the receiver sleeve. That is probably the easiest solution as it could probably be ordered from companies that make the standard ones.
Etrailer has a 12" one.

[deltabravo]

Other options:

Replace the receiver hitch with one that's 2".

I am running a Torklift Superhitch on my 2009 3500HD.

Get an aftermarket hitch reducer. The ones from GM seem to fit really loose, allowing for a lot of clanking and banging when towing. Even the GM OEM hitches seem to be oversized.

[Grit_dog]

Reducer sleeve will be a long term bad idea, but whatever. Knock yourself out.

[deltabravo]

I had the same problem. In my case, the jack is actually manufactured in such a way that the power head can be rotated 90 degrees.

Not all jacks have that feature though, and in some cases that won't even get enough clearance.

Rotating the Power Jack Head so I can use my tailgate

[ssthrd]

Grit dog wrote:

ssthrd wrote:
I turned the jack head to gain an inch or so of clearance. I don't know how much more room you need, but that worked for me. Can't remember if I turned it 90* or 180*, but I do remember that only one position would work.

I probably don't have to mention this, but safety first------

If you do this, make sure that you block the trailer tongue before unbolting the head. So after blocking the wheels, raise the trailer with the jack, support the tongue with blocking, then retract the jack to free it.

If you have a metal fabricator nearby, maybe you can have one made.

I’ve considered making a short hitch extension. Don’t have a trailer that needs it currently, but it would be handy, regardless.
Have to be a backwoods fab shop though to make one for a customer. That whole liability thing….

I hear ya. Tough to get things done sometimes these days.

[Baja_Man]

As Grit Dog mentioned, the size I am looking for is not manufactured by any of the larger Hitch companies. I called Curt, Equalizer, reese, Blue Ox, and BulletProof. The 2"x18" is made. Manufacturers stated the sleeve is the option for those wanting to use the 2"x18" in a 2.5" receiver.

I did mention to BulletProof about making one...they said they have received calls about a longer one, but no immediate plans to make an 18" one.

Unless there's an option that is doable for me (not making my own...btw...wonder what size welder would be needed to penetrate 2" sold steel?), it looks like I'll go with a 2" and use the sleeve/reducer that came with my truck. I'm going to add a hitch clamp to reduce any play/slop from the use of the adapter.

Thanks for the input!