Shopping for a 3/4 ton, What fit issues should I expect?

[n0m4d]

Over the winter I picked up a 2008 Lance 805, mostly to use as a sleeping spot for racing events I participate in. Since then, my family has been bit by the TC bug and I'm starting to look for a newer truck so we can take longer trips.

I have been looking mostly at 2015+ GM 3/4 tons but I don't have any objections to a F250. I found a 2016 F-250 that I like but I feel like somewhere I have read about fit issues with the Superduty's? Maybe hitting the cab? I can't seem to locate what I had read so I am wondering if anyone has had issues with a Lance/Superduty combo? What measurements should I be taking, is it bed floor to cab rooftop that is the issue or the bed wall heights?

Here are some pics of my current configuration:

[n0m4d]

You guys are the best! I have a TC that Lance marketed to Tundra owners and you guys got me now convinced that even a F350 SRW is probably inadequate.



In all seriousness I do appreciate the advice and will take it in account. Already have expanded my search to other areas and vehicles.

[jimanjo]

I'm considering my 3rd F250 for my second Northern Lite. One thing I know: the old F250s could handle 2500# and a little more. My 2011 has more torque and higher payload than my 2001 7.2l. The new trucks have bigger payload and more hp and torque. I generally put 10k miles per year and cross the Rockies at least once a year. No problem.

I wonder if anyone out there has carried a truck camper in the gas F250 which has 15 less hp and half the torque of the new diesels?

[time2roll]

+1 for 350/3500 SRW as a minimum.

[Mattyd]

It's been said before...but I wil say it again...get a one ton. I currently have a one ton dually. Next truck camper will be a pop up variety but will still get a one ton single wheel. Having had half ton, 3/4 ton, one ton, and a one ton dually..I wouldn't have less than a one ton. Gives you more capacity and one can't have too much truck. The side walls of the beds are getting crazy tall but building a small spacer for the camper to ride on is not a big deal. Enjoy!!!

[Powerdude]

I just got a piece of 3/4 inch marine plywood, cut off the last 18 inches, and then cut a few 2x4s I had lying around to fit, with 2 crossmembers. 2x4 are flat, not edge on.

Raises the camper about 2.5 inches, which was perfect for my F250. When I went and initially picked it up, it did rub the cab a bit with just a piece of 3/4 inch plywood underneath. The 2 by 4s laid flat lift it up just right for my 2016 F250. Ford has tall cabs.

The "platform" took all of 30 minutes to cut and screw together. Now it is a permanent resident in the bed of the truck.

[DWeikert]

I'll add another vote for considering a 1-ton right from the start.

For the 2007.5 "new body style" GM narrowed the tailgate opening to 59". Not sure if it got any narrower in recent years but I'd measure the width of your camper where it goes through the tailgate and make sure it's not greater than 59" If so, don't shop for a GM product.

[Bedlam]

We had a 22' toy hauler prior to our truck campers. Our model could be configured with up to two lift queen beds and two folding twin beds. Ours only had sleeping for four but had a slide out, picture windows and a booth dinette.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28310024/gotomsg/28310264.cfm#28310264

Measure from the floor of your truck camper to the underside of the cab over. If you have less than 4' you may need to build up the base to clear the taller Ford cabs. GM's have the shortest cab height, so from your pictures it looks like that Lance would need a boost.

[ajcal225]

IIRC that cab clearance issue is just running a pre ~2000 or so camper on a post 99 ford truck. My 90 Coachman required a spacer on my 2003 F-250, but my 04 Lance 915 clears with 4", no spacer involved.

[n0m4d]

Bedlam wrote:
Why not haul the UTV in the enclosed trailer and have the family in the truck camper instead of owning two RV's?

This is what we do now, and I have no plans to change this. I just wanted to specify that we would not be upgrading to a larger TC, the one I have is it, the next step would be replacing it with exactly the type of toy hauler you are describing.

Thanks again for the info everyone!

[Bedlam]

If you choose a F250, you want the camper package and 18" wheel options. This gives you a F350 with F250 badges plus front and rear stabilizer bars. Buying a F350 with camper package just gives you the additional rear stabilizer bar because it already has the rest.

If you want the smallest toy hauler that can haul a UTV, look for an open floor plan with forward bath or kitchen. You will need to unload the toy to sleep in it, so that is downside to something so compact. Why not haul the UTV in the enclosed trailer and have the family in the truck camper instead of owning two RV's?

[d3500ram]

Not all "E" tires are the same and may not be able to carry the same weight.

Check out this article: Load Range and Load Index

The old way of determining load capacity by a "letter" (D, E , F, G) connotation is not really valid as much as it used to be but it is important because the letter relates (among other things) to what the tires maximum PSI can handle and Load Index (LI) relates to weight carrying capacity.

LI is the actual weight the tire can handle at the max PSI. So the two go hand-in-hand. Look at both when selecting a tire.

[n0m4d]

noteven wrote:
New take off factory 18" wheel/tires are often available at dealers when folks want to finance aftermarket wheels and tires on a new truck. 18's are rated around 3700lbs capacity.

That's good to know, I was just thinking a Load Range E tire was the same regardless of wheel size. I usually get a spare set, so I can run studded snows in the winter for plowing.

I would guess my TC weighs in at no more than 1800lbs loaded so I could defer a tire/wheel upgrade until I need new tires.

[noteven]

New take off factory 18" wheel/tires are often available at dealers when folks want to finance aftermarket wheels and tires on a new truck. 18's are rated around 3700lbs capacity.

[n0m4d]

silversand wrote:
.....jack extension bolt-ons are available for some jacks; I can't tell from the photos if your jacks are round or square leg?

Really REALLY pay attention to the rear truck bed opening width vis a vis your existing (or contemplated) truck camper rear tub width (as Kohldad writes, above). You can get the truck bed widths from truck manufacturer's up-fitter web databases (like GM body builder up-fitter drawings for all years light-duty truck models, here--> )

Thanks for the advice. I'll measure out the rear truck bed opening, the bed rail height, and the bed floor to cab top +2"-3".

kohldad wrote:
Usually you want 2-3" clearance above the cab.

Make sure you check out Texas. Have heard lots of stories where one saved money by flying to Texas to pick up their truck. Lots of big dealers down there do a fantastic job properly documenting the truck so you get what you are expecting when you arrive in town.

Thanks and I will starting looking at Texas. My Brother in Law lives near Houston so I actually could fly there, couch surf for a couple days and drive home.

Old Days wrote:
I have a 2011 Ford F250 and a 2010 Lance 825 and I don't have any box issues with height. But if you are looking at different trucks get the F 350.

Thanks and that is good news, I don't think they changed the bed or cab since then so maybe I'll get lucky.

Thanks for all the advice, I'll see what 1-tons I can track down and add that to my search mix.

[d3500ram]

One other thing... if you are going for SRW, try to look for a truck that has wheel sizes other than 17". You are limited in Load Index (LI) in terms of maximum weight carrying capacity for 17". 16" are becoming passe and I believe that the new norm is now 18" (I have not researched this size with respect to LI selection)... but it might give you better weight carry numbers without needing to step up to 19.5's for a relatively low weight camper on the bed.