Equalizer brand WD hitch Torque Specs

[Dave_Pete]

I can't remember the exact part names right now as I'm away from the small print on the parts and in the installation manual, but here's a question about torque on Equalizer Hitch bolts.

I bought a TT from dealer a couple of years ago. Part of the deal included a new "Equalizer" brand weight distribution hitch, parts and installation. Well there were several problems with the installation that I had to fix, such as the proper - and balanced - distances for the brackets that bolt onto the trailer tongue and the angle of the head (of course they didn't provide me with the extra washers needed to properly set the angle so later in my different state of residence I had to go track some of those down for proper setting).

Finally got it all set, except on occasion the hitch made loud, ugly noises while turning and at first I could seem to control it with more grease (I use white lithium) on the pressure surfaces (the noise was coming from just one side at the hitch platform. The socket I think it's called.

A few days ago I was setting up the trailer and cleaned and re-greased all the WD hitch parts in preparation for the season. In the instructions, I couldn't find torque specs for the big bolts that secure the sockets to the hitch. It's those sockets that are squeezed and are in essence, the pivot points of the arms.

The instructions covered torque specs for the other big bolts used in installation, but these come attached from the factory and didn't list any torque specs. I compared the two sides with the torque wrench and the tighter side was 150 ft lbs while the looser side was 140.

The noise still occurred. So upon a complete dis assembly, I noticed a label on each socket in VERY small print that said "for longer life keep lubed and bolts tight, aprox 45 ft lbs".

I loosened the bolts to 45 ft lbs and everything works well!

Has anybody else run into this? Do they come so over tight from the manufacturer? Did the dealer installer incorrectly tighten everything without verification for application? Any comments or thoughts on the subject?

[Marauderer]

Dave, thanks for the evaluation report. I have a 1000 miler coming up on Memorial Day weekend and I am going to set mine up like yours. I will let you know how it goes.

[Dave_Pete]

Well after running the WD hitch on about a 1000 mile round trip, I'm back home with this report. The hitch made little if any noise, certainly NOT the loud ugly sound I described in my original post.

The only noise I heard was a little clicking or maybe "clunking" is a better descriptive word for what I heard, and that was in tight turning at an RV park enroute when I stopped by to dump.

So my conclusion was: Properly set up (maximum leverage use by placing the trailer L-brackets back as far as allowable and the head angle set correctly for leveling and squatting truck front and rear suspension as described in Equal-i-zer instructions), some, but not over, greased - even just a simple white lithium, and PROPER torque (45' lbs) on the socket bolts, all gave a quiet and functional hitch.

[Dave_Pete]

Thanks Barry, I noticed that on Amazon yesterday too. As I glanced at them (haven't looked in depth) they appear to go on the trailer side. If so, the Teflon pad solution appears to only resolve noise occurring at the L brackets. My complaint noise was coming only from one side of the socket head. It doesn't appear that Equal-i-zer has provided a Teflon pad solution for that issue, but again, I think I may have resolved that by restoring correct torque to the socket fasteners, which appear to have been either too tight from the factory (for wear-in purposes), or tightened up by the dealer (for potential ignorance reasons), or a combination of both. At any rate, I'll give them a work-see with the correct torque applied, and a reasonable grease amount, and if that doesn't do it, try some different greases as suggested and we'll just see. 🙂 Thanks again!

[Marauderer]

I bought the plastic pads from WDH and it reduced the noise considerably

Here is a link to them on Amazon.

LINK

[Dave_Pete]

Has anybody tried to control the noise using a shock collar. No wait! One of those bass boost woofers like the kids put in their cars? Pull into the campground - nobody hears the hitch, or better yet, they just think it's part of the song, curse under their breath and go back to their own activities! Yeah! That's the ticket! 😉

Seriously, I knew this one had a potential for intensity. I certainly don't begrudge anybody's hard earned opinions and viewpoints. And personal circumstances, life experiences, levels of courtesy and trends toward a black and white vs shades of grey style of personality only brings about such lively discussion naturally. I'm a long term traditionalist black and white viewed conservative, but I will say as I age, Those shades of grey really seem logical at times and are coming into better focus - maybe it's these bifocals?. And is that maybe what they mean by, "greying with age"?

I loved it all.

Beneficial things I learned: Teflon pads, different grease, noise is expected, tighter torque from the factory to compensate for normal wear. All great stuff!

Thanks for all the contributions. 🙂

[westend]

OP, trying a different grease may prove successful. I don't know the composition of Equalizer's own product but that may be an alternative, too.

[BillB800si]

Maybe we should leave this thread with:
" Equalizer Hitches" are the NOISIEST HITCHES in the world. They work but they sure are noisy.....
A 7 year Equalizer user........................

[lbrjet]

The sockets are supposed to be lubed and has no affect on the sway control. It is right in the user manual.

Soundguy, you could use a math lesson.

[Big_Love]

Putting lube around your Equal-i-zer rotating sockets (torqued to 45-60 ft/lbs) will both mitigate the hitch noise AND effectiveness of the anti-sway. I try to find the middle ground of lightly lubing the area around the sockets just enough to make the noise tolerable when pulling into a campsite, but am also aware that it is lowering the anti-sway when on the highway.

[brulaz]

SoundGuy wrote:

lbrjet wrote:
My hitch has 17K miles on it. It barely makes a noise because I lube my sockets before each trip like you are supposed to. Remove the sockets when installing the ball and any 1 7/8 inch socket works just fine. Use a breaker bar and no heavy duty torque wrench is needed. I set mine up and haven't had to touch it in five years. Sometimes things are not as complicated as others make them out to be.

So in other words you have no idea at all as to whether those shank bolts are correctly torqued or not. :R How interesting that Progress includes torque specifications for every bolt / nut combination and does specify the use of a thin wall socket for tightening the hitch ball nut ... so unfortunate the folks who actually manufacture the Equal-i-zer don't know as much about their own product as you ... yeah, right. :S

Well, like he said, his hitch has 17K miles on it and seems to be working ok.

The point being that just maybe you can ignore all those torque numbers and do it the old fashioned way ... and things will be fine.

I won't tell you how I tightened my hitch ball.;)

For making routine adjustments, you might find it easier to raise or lower the L brackets.

I like my Equal-I-Zer. Relatively light, no holes to drill in the frame, no greasier than my previous WDH. Occasionally noisy but that doesn't bother me. Good sway control.

But I hear there are other good ones out there too.

[SoundGuy]

lbrjet wrote:
My hitch has 17K miles on it. It barely makes a noise because I lube my sockets before each trip like you are supposed to. Remove the sockets when installing the ball and any 1 7/8 inch socket works just fine. Use a breaker bar and no heavy duty torque wrench is needed. I set mine up and haven't had to touch it in five years. Sometimes things are not as complicated as others make them out to be.

So in other words you have no idea at all as to whether those shank bolts are correctly torqued or not. :R How interesting that Progress includes torque specifications for every bolt / nut combination and does specify the use of a thin wall socket for tightening the hitch ball nut ... so unfortunate the folks who actually manufacture the Equal-i-zer don't know as much about their own product as you ... yeah, right. :S

[lbrjet]

My hitch has 17K miles on it. It barely makes a noise because I lube my sockets before each trip like you are supposed to. Remove the sockets when installing the ball and any 1 7/8 inch socket works just fine. Use a breaker bar and no heavy duty torque wrench is needed. I set mine up and haven't had to touch it in five years. Sometimes things are not as complicated as others make them out to be.

[SoundGuy]

SoundGuy wrote:
Your choice though - the Equal-i-zer is certainly a proven system but it is also a much older design that could really benefit from a major updating to overcome several of it's many flaws.

AngryBert-63 wrote:
Many flaws?

Aside from being a bit noisy, and coming from a Reese Dual Cam I KNOW hitch noise, name a few of these MANY flaws you're privy to.

Privy too? Hardly, as none of this is a secret to anyone who has owned an Equal-i-zer ...

The Equal-i-zer is arguably the noisiest WD system on the planet and although the racket can be damped down somewhat pretty well everyone will know when an EQ is entering the campground. :E

Metal on metal means wear, particularly the L pins which over time do distort, sometimes quite noticeably. Head sockets begin to show noticeable wear over time as well. :M

Head angle is adjusted by adding / subtracting washers but that requires pulling the head apart by loosening / removing the shank bolts which then must later be re-installed and re-torqued ... do this several times over and it gets old really quick. :M

The hitch ball cannot have a shank any longer than 2-3/8" and tightening requires the use of a thin wall socket and a torque wrench capable of at least 430 ft-lbs, neither of which many would have in their home workshop. Fortunately this only needs to be done once but if these can't be borrowed then both are a costly investment for a one time event. :M

Likewise, the shank bolts must be torqued to 320 ft-lbs, again with a torque wrench many wouldn't have in their home workshop. Unlike the hitch ball though those shank bolts do have to be torqued, loosened, an re-torqued every time the head angle or head height is changed because of a change in tow vehicle, trailer, or even significant changes in trailer load. Been there, done that many times myself with my own EQ. :M

Hey, no secrets ... it's ALL in the Equal-i-zer owner's manual. :R

[BillB800si]

Earl E wrote:
You can buy the teflon pads at a very nominal price from Equal-i-zer and they stop the noise completely with no impact on the hitches performance. They are worth every penny--no more grease to deal with!

============================

I tried the pads- they wear out to quickly. Had to go back to grease. Its messy.....