2018 F150 For 1989 Jayco Sportster Series 8, Few Questions

[Skolberts]

The transmission went out in my 2003 Tundra Access Cab. I recently bought a 18 F150 XLT Supercab so 6-1/2' bed. I'm scheduled to beef up the rear end on 3/31 with a progressive spring package https://www.boisespringworks.com/spring-works-kit . I'm looking for tie downs and turnbuckles now. Previous owner just turnbuckled to the hooks inside the truck bed. I tried that in the Tundra but was very unsatisfied as it moved and actually pushed the front of the bed into the cab. Its hard to get those cranked tight and get it to not loosen up. I was also driving on some serious off roads in Escalante National Park. I noticed they have the Brophy for pretty reasonable price but looks like I do not have the 2" required under the bed rail in my 18 Ford. Also might be a bad idea with the alum fords by the sounds of it. Now I'm looking at Torklift Tie Downs but holy cow they are spendy. $687 for a set of 4. Is there any other options for me? I do like how well these supposedly work. I wish they were universal so they would work on whatever truck I by next in 10 years. From there I need turnbuckles. I was eyeing the Torklift Basic SpringLoad Turnbuckles for $212 for a set. I like the idea they have some give. I do end up on a lot of back woods roads in Idaho so some give might be nice. Any recommendations on those or anything else? My Jayco needs to be lifted 3" to provide 3" clearance between the cab and the camper. This will also provide 2" clearance above the bed rails. I was thinking getting a couple sheets of the Home Depot 1-1/2" Rigid Foam boards with my 1/4" rubber mat on the truck bed. So 1/4" mat, foam and camper. I really would like to keep this as light as possible.

Long story short

Are the Torklift Tie Downs really worth their price? ($687)

Are the Torklift SpringLoad Turnbuckles good for $212 or is there something better?

Thanks for your help, I am very new to the TC world. I just bought the camper in the fall and only used it on one trip so far. I do plan to basically leave it on almost year round. I camp a ton in the summer and with this, I can now camp at ski resorts parking lots.

[Grit_dog]

Kayteg1 wrote:
I had to build shimm for my Lance camper. Camper floor keeps the weight on the edges only, so I build 4x8' frame out of 3 x6" and put 1/2" plywood on the top. Than I had 2nd rubber mat on top of it. No center support needed. Still it add close to 100 lb, what is no problem with my dually.
I also corrected "trailer" in my post above.

I went to the lumber yard and asked them for some 3x6s....the look on the guy's face was priceless!
He then asked me if I learned of this mystical material on a rv forum...weird, I know.

[Skolberts]

Got all the Torklifts finally installed. Did some recaulking but needs way more. I need to move the eye bolts on the camper to new locations. Think I’ll get some 1/8” thick aluminum bar and bolt it through the floor. I don’t want to chance it and want it bomb proof. Tomorrow I should finally have it installed. This is a lot of work to get it initially set up but should be good for years to come. I’m stoked

[Skolberts]

Kayteg1 wrote:
I had to build shimm for my Lance camper. Camper floor keeps the weight on the edges only, so I build 4x8' frame out of 3 x6" and put 1/2" plywood on the top. Than I had 2nd rubber mat on top of it. No center support needed. Still it add close to 100 lb, what is no problem with my dually.
I also corrected "trailer" in my post above.

Good to know about how the camper floor weight is on the edges as well as. Thanks for your help

[Kayteg1]

I had to build shimm for my Lance camper. Camper floor keeps the weight on the edges only, so I build 4x8' frame out of 3 x6" and put 1/2" plywood on the top. Than I had 2nd rubber mat on top of it. No center support needed. Still it add close to 100 lb, what is no problem with my dually.
I also corrected "trailer" in my post above.

[Skolberts]

Kayteg1 wrote:
Per my experience, good rubber mat is what holds TC on position with normal driving.
Tie-downs are needed for extreme situations only.
Also if you have trailer hitch on your F150, you can easy DIY rear ties. Lot of pictures on forum, but this is not a big brainer.
Not much you can do fitting curved frame for front ties, so Torklift design is probably the best.
What I also notice on my aluminium bed - the ribs on it end about 2" before bed ends, so my long trailer would collapse them on the edge. I made a strip of plywood to fill the gap under factory mat.

Good information there, thanks! I do have a 1/2" rubber mat that it made for the bed of my truck. Another issue I have is I need to raise the camper 2" min. I bought some 2" pink foam board from HD. Figured I would give that a try and see. I'm guessing I'm going to have to build a frame for it out of 2x2's and than insert some of the foam. 2x2's don't weight much but I want to make sure I get my clearance before I build a frame. Who knows, I might need to go with 2x4 and get 3.5". What I noticed is I can take all the measurements I want but I need to install it to really know what I'm dealing with.

I did not realize how complicated this can get.

I installed 3 of the 4 Torklift mounts last night. I can now see why people love them. Bolted to the frame like that. I'm excited to get this installed and start using it.

[Kayteg1]

Per my experience, good rubber mat is what holds TC on position with normal driving.
Tie-downs are needed for extreme situations only.
Also if you have trailer hitch on your F150, you can easy DIY rear ties. Lot of pictures on forum, but this is not a big brainer.
Not much you can do fitting curved frame for front ties, so Torklift design is probably the best.
What I also notice on my aluminium bed - the ribs on it end about 2" before bed ends, so my long camper would collapse them on the edge. I made a strip of plywood to fill the gap under factory mat.

[Skolberts]

jaycocreek wrote:
My advice..Tell Boise spring works what you want to do and they can make you up something like the old "Belly Bar" that goes across the frame to anchor your TC too in the front and or back..They could make you one up and you could install it with ease...

Boise spring work does good work and you won't be the first truck camper they have made work on a truck..I would go there in a heartbeat over some of the advice here which will mostly be F-150 bashing..LOL

There are Happi Jack spring loaded turnbuckles that are alot cheaper than Torklift,as an example..

I'm getting that feeling in the F150 bashing lol. I did tons of research and with Boise Spring Works I feel more than confident my F150 can haul this camper with zero issues. My 03 Tundra with 1500 pound payload was overloaded but I was surprised how well it handled. I took it on a 1500 mile road trip through some serious off roading and it was find. I'm also on mountain windy roads all the time and the sway was minimal. I'm excited to see how the F150 with Torklifts and Boise Springs Works handles. I bet I don't really notice it. Its funny that I know most people are over payload when they haul a camper. Almost every half ton you see is overloaded but I'm trying my best to keep the weight down. The lighter the better I'm thinking.

Thanks for your input. Hopefully Boise Spring Works is open on the 31st when my appointment is. I'm going to install the camper on stock shocks for now to see how she handles. BSW said I can bring it on with the camper or without. I'm assuming with they will have a better idea on what I need.

Thanks again, Happy camping in Idaho!!

[jaycocreek]

My advice..Tell Boise spring works what you want to do and they can make you up something like the old "Belly Bar" that goes across the frame to anchor your TC too in the front and or back..They could make you one up and you could install it with ease...

Boise spring work does good work and you won't be the first truck camper they have made work on a truck..I would go there in a heartbeat over some of the advice here which will mostly be F-150 bashing..LOL

There are Happi Jack spring loaded turnbuckles that are alot cheaper than Torklift,as an example..

[Grit_dog]

Imo, don’t get too wound up about gutting it out until you see how well or poorly you feel the truck hauls it. You already had it on an old tundra and apparently feel it works on a 1/2 ton well, or you wouldn’t have gotten a new one.
If you stuck around here, some will have you in a dually just to haul a topper on the back!
Your truck won’t care if it’s hauling around 2000lbs.
It may actually love you more for using it like a truck! Lol

[Skolberts]

I actually bought the Torklifts and springloaded turnbuckles last night. Found the exact ones I needed new on craigslist for 25% off. Everything I read said the only way to go is the Torklifts.

I contacted Jayco when I bought it. They said empty weight with standard equipment is 1135 pounds and confirmed it by sending me the factory specs. My F150 has a payload of 2000 pounds (which is why I bought a F150 over a Tundra which has like 1500). I do not plan on using the water tank. I actually plan on removing it. I camp by rivers and lakes most of the time so I can filter my own water which is what I normally do but winter I might have to carry a 5 gallon jug which is only 40 pounds. I'm also removing the furnace since its electric only. I'm going with the Westabo knock off that weighs about 50 pounds less. I'm going to trim more weight where I can. I want it as light as I can get it.

Any recommendations on trimming weight would be appreciated. I'm thinking removing cabinet doors and adding mesh. Replace the heavy table with something lighter like aluminum. If I can trim another 100+ pounds I would be pretty stoked.

[romore]

I would not even consider anchoring it to the body, chain and turnbuckles to channel across the frame rails would be much better. Apparently that camper is around 1500# dry which is a bit much for an F-150