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Carbon ceramic pads question

scootsk
Explorer III
Explorer III
Hey all

Just ordered Power Stop carbon fiber ceramic severe duty truck& tow pads for my 2014 Ram 3500 CC LB dually. Most of the driving in that truck is towing out 14k lb. FW. My question, is it okay to use carbon fiber Ceramic pads with the stock rotors?
Don, Kathleen
2014 Ram 3500 Crew Cab 4x4 Dually 6.7 CTD/AISIN
2019 Montana 3791 Fifth Wheel
89 REPLIES 89

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
You'll like the PowerStop pads - mostly.
They have a lot more grip than any stock pads and get even better with a little heat. So if you're in stop and go traffic, they get a little stickier and it takes less pedal effort.
Have a panic stop and you will be surprised - they stop HARD.
The down side is they will eat your rotors. I mean they grind the metal off them so much that they will be done when it's time for new pads.
I also have a RAM 3500 and often tow in the hills. The added stopping force is a fair trade off in rotor life for me - especially when a herd of elk runs out in front of me..

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
O
M
G
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
StirCrazy wrote:
Grit dog wrote:
StonedPanther wrote:
valhalla360 wrote:
a regular brake job should fix the problem without getting exotic.


There is nothing exotic about Powerstop Z36 kits with drilled and slotted rotors. The Powerstop kit per axle is lower in price than going down to Autovance and buying the "regular" off the shelf generic garbage pads and crapola no name rotors that warp the first time you heat them up.


You can probably save your breath. Some o these folks are probably thinking disc brakes are new fangled exotic stuff. I mean drum brake shoes are cheap and they stop a vehicle too. Why go past that?
Same folks are rockin flip phones and posting from their desktops prolly too.

Iโ€™ve been wanting to upgrade a whole setup to drilled and slotted rotors but I havenโ€™t torched a rotor on anything I own in idk how long. Except the old SRT needed rotors at about 140k miles, years ago. But it was getting sold so I gave the poor car some Chinabomb solid rotors.
And I just love the folks who are openly proud about how they beat the odds with brake component lifeโ€ฆprobably also the same folks being told repeatedly theyโ€™re number 1 by passing motorists as theyโ€™re doing 57mph down the freeway and missing traffic signals as they coast to a stop from the start of the off rampโ€ฆ..


I just did on the front of the truck. might on the back also as I have to take it apart to fix a park brake that is seized. anyone who says brake fade is a thing of the pass obviously doesn't town in the mountains much...


If you have an exhaust brake you should never experience "brake fade".
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

StirCrazy
Nomad III
Nomad III
Grit dog wrote:
StonedPanther wrote:
valhalla360 wrote:
a regular brake job should fix the problem without getting exotic.


There is nothing exotic about Powerstop Z36 kits with drilled and slotted rotors. The Powerstop kit per axle is lower in price than going down to Autovance and buying the "regular" off the shelf generic garbage pads and crapola no name rotors that warp the first time you heat them up.


You can probably save your breath. Some o these folks are probably thinking disc brakes are new fangled exotic stuff. I mean drum brake shoes are cheap and they stop a vehicle too. Why go past that?
Same folks are rockin flip phones and posting from their desktops prolly too.

Iโ€™ve been wanting to upgrade a whole setup to drilled and slotted rotors but I havenโ€™t torched a rotor on anything I own in idk how long. Except the old SRT needed rotors at about 140k miles, years ago. But it was getting sold so I gave the poor car some Chinabomb solid rotors.
And I just love the folks who are openly proud about how they beat the odds with brake component lifeโ€ฆprobably also the same folks being told repeatedly theyโ€™re number 1 by passing motorists as theyโ€™re doing 57mph down the freeway and missing traffic signals as they coast to a stop from the start of the off rampโ€ฆ..


I just did on the front of the truck. might on the back also as I have to take it apart to fix a park brake that is seized. anyone who says brake fade is a thing of the pass obviously doesn't town in the mountains much...
2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK
1991 Slumberqueen WS100

GaryUT
Explorer II
Explorer II
I used carbon ceramic pads once. All they did was cover the wheels in black dust.

Went back to OEM ceramic pads, no more dust.

Gary
2019 Keystone Laredo 255SRL
2009 GMC Sierra 2500 4x4 Crew cab short bed

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
"You get 145,000 miles out of the OEM brakes? LOL"


You obviously don't own a modern diesel with an exhaust brake.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
Grit dog wrote:
scootsk wrote:
Thanks for all the replies!! I never knew brake pads weee such a controversial subject!! Lol

Let throw some gas on this fire, Ram, Chevy or Ford!! ??


Theyโ€™re not, except in the minds of a few folks who attempted to add their โ€œwisdomโ€ here.

And to 12Vs point, I agree, EBC seems to be the top of the line when it comes to brake pads. (Of course some canโ€™t tell the difference not unlike anything else). Have heard Hawk pads are equivalent to EBC but never tired them.
But also in response to 12Vs comment, he believes anything you buy must be THE best or nothing at all. Those Powerstop pads for half the price are still better all around than OE type semi-met or organic and close to EBC in performance.
All a bit subjective of course but within the reasonable realm of what works well and not as rigid as some peoples opinion of โ€œthe best or not at all.โ€


My son and I have both ran the Hawk and they are good but still not close to the EBC's. I have EBC's on my 15 DRW RAM, Harley, 24k Mobile Suites and 01 RAM Sport 2500 4x4.

So what's wrong with buying what a person "thinks" is the best?

I also replaced the front rotors on my 15 because I had a sticking caliper and chewed up one rotor. I bought the OE type replacements part number RK 7508.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Turtle_n_Peeps
Explorer
Explorer
StonedPanther wrote:
Turtle n Peeps wrote:
I just don't understand this tricked out brake stuff. My truck has 145,000 on it and the brakes were inspected at 115,00 and the mechanic said the brakes looked like brand new. And this is with 40% towing.


You get 145,000 miles out of the OEM brakes? LOL. Good for you. I bet you also get 35 mpg out of a V8 pickup LOL.


Your in luck!! I had to do hubs on my truck this weekend. This is what I found with my stock GM brakes with 150K on them.

But you probable think that I photo shopped the pic's. :S LOL





Should be able to make 200K or close to it with almost a 1/2" of lining still.

Still waiting for what I said was BS.:R
~ Too many freaks & not enough circuses ~


"Life is not tried ~ it is merely survived ~ if you're standing
outside the fire"

"The best way to get a bad law repealed is to enforce it strictly."- Abraham Lincoln

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
scootsk wrote:
Thanks for all the replies!! I never knew brake pads weee such a controversial subject!! Lol

Let throw some gas on this fire, Ram, Chevy or Ford!! ??


Theyโ€™re not, except in the minds of a few folks who attempted to add their โ€œwisdomโ€ here.

And to 12Vs point, I agree, EBC seems to be the top of the line when it comes to brake pads. (Of course some canโ€™t tell the difference not unlike anything else). Have heard Hawk pads are equivalent to EBC but never tired them.
But also in response to 12Vs comment, he believes anything you buy must be THE best or nothing at all. Those Powerstop pads for half the price are still better all around than OE type semi-met or organic and close to EBC in performance.
All a bit subjective of course but within the reasonable realm of what works well and not as rigid as some peoples opinion of โ€œthe best or not at all.โ€
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
"EBC with a bedding compound on them. Even still it is best to scuff the rotors completely."



EBC are the BEST by far pads I have ever used on my trucks. I highly recommend turning the rotors.

My son used the PowerStop HD pads on his RAM 3500. He drove mine and now he is a EBC fan.

EBC has a new compound for the HD trucks. ED+ ED91847 is the part number for the HD 3500 RAM.

You know as well as I do the so called Ceramic pads for HD application are "Ceramic Like".


OP return your pads and buy the EBC's I listed, you will thank me.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

scootsk
Explorer III
Explorer III
Thanks for all the replies!! I never knew brake pads weee such a controversial subject!! Lol

Let throw some gas on this fire, Ram, Chevy or Ford!! ??
Don, Kathleen
2014 Ram 3500 Crew Cab 4x4 Dually 6.7 CTD/AISIN
2019 Montana 3791 Fifth Wheel

StonedPanther
Explorer III
Explorer III
Turtle n Peeps wrote:
StonedPanther wrote:
Turtle n Peeps wrote:
The ONLY reason, and I do mean ONLY reason for slotted and drilled rotors on race cars is weight reduction. That's it. Weight reduction.


BS to put it simply.


Tell me why it's BS? Lets hear it. I find it strange that you come on here asking a simple question about brakes that you don't know the answer too and then when I give you the answer and more, you act like you have all of this knowledge about brakes. :h



You need to read the thread again from the beginning. I did not ask any questions about anything, that was Scootsk. I find it strange that you dispute about 92% of what anyone else posts based on reading through your past posts on what essentially amounts to a dead board locked in 1972. I'm not about to argue with some Knucklehead when others in a thread get it and the knucklehead doesn't. You did not give me an answer about anything as I never asked a question LOL.

Turtle_n_Peeps
Explorer
Explorer
StonedPanther wrote:
Turtle n Peeps wrote:
The ONLY reason, and I do mean ONLY reason for slotted and drilled rotors on race cars is weight reduction. That's it. Weight reduction.


BS to put it simply.


Tell me why it's BS? Lets hear it. I find it strange that you come on here asking a simple question about brakes that you don't know the answer too and then when I give you the answer and more, you act like you have all of this knowledge about brakes. :h

The lighter your rotors are the less heat load the metal can absorb. It's pretty simple really. I work on E450 busses and vans all day long and lets me tell you, I have yet to see a drilled and slotted rotor on any of them yet. The rotors on these busses are HUGE and heavy as hell. They are made that way to adsorb tons of heat without glowing red and boiling the fluid.

Rotors always absorb more heat than they can reject. The less mass you have the less heat load they can absorb. Drilled and slotted rotors have less mass and therefor can't absorb the same amount of heat that solid rotors absorb. Beyond that, slotted and drilled rotors have a bad tendency to crack. Not so bad on a race car because they are inspected after every race. But on a truck that tows an RV, that can be bad news and make for a bad day very quickly.

Oh BTW, no; my truck does not get 35 mpg. It gets 19 solo and 11 towing. :B
~ Too many freaks & not enough circuses ~


"Life is not tried ~ it is merely survived ~ if you're standing
outside the fire"

"The best way to get a bad law repealed is to enforce it strictly."- Abraham Lincoln

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
StonedPanther wrote:
valhalla360 wrote:
a regular brake job should fix the problem without getting exotic.


There is nothing exotic about Powerstop Z36 kits with drilled and slotted rotors. The Powerstop kit per axle is lower in price than going down to Autovance and buying the "regular" off the shelf generic garbage pads and crapola no name rotors that warp the first time you heat them up.


You can probably save your breath. Some o these folks are probably thinking disc brakes are new fangled exotic stuff. I mean drum brake shoes are cheap and they stop a vehicle too. Why go past that?
Same folks are rockin flip phones and posting from their desktops prolly too.

Iโ€™ve been wanting to upgrade a whole setup to drilled and slotted rotors but I havenโ€™t torched a rotor on anything I own in idk how long. Except the old SRT needed rotors at about 140k miles, years ago. But it was getting sold so I gave the poor car some Chinabomb solid rotors.
And I just love the folks who are openly proud about how they beat the odds with brake component lifeโ€ฆprobably also the same folks being told repeatedly theyโ€™re number 1 by passing motorists as theyโ€™re doing 57mph down the freeway and missing traffic signals as they coast to a stop from the start of the off rampโ€ฆ..
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

StonedPanther
Explorer III
Explorer III
valhalla360 wrote:
a regular brake job should fix the problem without getting exotic.


There is nothing exotic about Powerstop Z36 kits with drilled and slotted rotors. The Powerstop kit per axle is lower in price than going down to Autovance and buying the "regular" off the shelf generic garbage pads and crapola no name rotors that warp the first time you heat them up.