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Tips for Choosing a 12V Replacement Water Pump

TCBear
Explorer
Explorer
PART #1 OF 8

Howdy. I'm not an RV expert, but recently I researched 12 volt freshwater pumps in DETAIL to replace my Fleetwood trailer’s original 2007 Shurflow pump that finally expired. My porous skull absorbed enough info that I thought I'd share it in the hopes that others might benefit, definitely the LONG version here. The pump info below relates to small, medium and many larger RVs, but you might consult an expert if you own a mega beast, a complex water system, a high filtration or reverse-osmosis system. RV experts, feel free to correct any errant info here.

Skip to “Just Pick a Pump” (Part 5) below for a quick pump recommendation.

These eight posts relate to "standard" 3 gpm pumps. If you're replacing a "single fixture" 1 gpm pump in a small RV, see the later follow-up post as well as the general details below.

An RV's water pump pressurizes water from the freshwater tank, allowing you to use the various water fixtures in the rig including the sink, shower and toilet. Leaks, excessive noise or poor performance are all reasons to consider replacing an old water pump, but causes can also be unrelated to the pump itself. To check your water pump (a generalized test), turn on your kitchen sink faucet to a minimal water flow. If the water pump cycles and its “off-time” is two seconds or longer, it’s operating correctly. Sometimes when the water flow is restricted, a water pump will resort to a “rapid cycle.” This means the cycling will cut on or off in less than two seconds. If this happens during your test, check the pump owner’s manual to see if you can make any adjustments. If not, you may need a different pump or an RV accumulator tank (see below).
27 REPLIES 27

TCBear
Explorer
Explorer
ONLINE RV WATER PUMP OPERATION MANUALS

LIPPERT
https://support.lci1.com/flow-max

VALTERRA
https://www.valterra.com/downloads/

FLOJET
https://www.xylem.com/en-us/brands/flojet/flojet-products/rv-water-system-pump-series/documentation/

SHURFLO
https://www.pentair.com/en-us/products/residential/water-supply-disposal/recreational-vehicle/shurflo-revolution-4008-series-by-pass-pump.html?queryID=db4b20705223bbb3e90973034b84ba63&objectID=https://www.pentair.com/en-us/products/residential/water-supply-disposal/recreational-vehicle/shurflo-revolution-4008-series-by-pass-pump.html&indexName=prod_pentair_products

REMCO
https://remcoindustries.com/pump-products/rv-pumps/3200-rv-series/

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/remco-power-rv-3200-series-32-gpm-45-psi-12-vdc-on-demand-rv-fresh-water-pumps-fittings-and-filter-included

CAMCO
(Manual unavailable)

TCBear
Explorer
Explorer


Image above-right of recommended 36 inch long noise/pulse reduction hose loops as depicted in Flojet owner's manuals. Helpful for any brand or type of RV/boat water pump.

Text says "Note: To help reduce noise and vibration of the pump through the system use flexible lines on the inlet and outlet of the pump as shown above. Be sure to use lines rated to not collapse under pump vacuum." (Shouldn't be an issue with the reinforced thickwall hose previously mentioned.)

TCBear
Explorer
Explorer
TWO ADDITIONAL U.S. BRAND PUMP CHOICES

In case you wanted yet more options for U.S. branded 3 gpm pumps, I recently came across two additional obscure options, the Camco #22491 and the made-in-USA Remco Series 3200. Remco is a longtime manufacturer of boat pumps and other pumps, and Camco is an established component supplier to the RV industry. (Remco also makes 1 gpm pumps for small RVs.) Little in the way of Amazon user reviews for either pump -- they're somewhat obscure choices -- although that shouldn't necessarily be a disqualifier.

CAMCO #22491
-One pump model offered
-3.0 gpm flow
-55 psi max pressure
-7.5 amps max draw
-10 amps or higher RV pump fuse assumed
-Bypass valve to reduce cycling and pulsation
-Plumbing strainer and two straight ½ inch connectors provided
-Can run dry without damage
-5/10 minute duty cycle – 5 min full flow, 10 min cooldown, like the Lippert pump
-2 year warranty

REMCO SERIES 3200
-3.2 gpm flow
-45 psi max pressure
-8 amps max draw
-10 amps or higher RV pump fuse assumed
-Unknown if bypass valve is provided
-Plumbing strainer and two connectors provided, one straight, one 90 elbow. Like Flojet, Remco uses proprietary o-ring fittings, which shouldn’t be a complication for most folks. Note that Remco confusingly refers to "3/4 inch" fittings, but they're talking about the 3/4" holes in the pump head the fittings press into. The barbed hose end of each fitting appears to be a standard 1/2". Their catalog lists alternate proprietary fittings available.
-Can run dry without damage
-Can be wall mounted with the pump module above the motor
-Made in the USA
-1 year warranty

valhalla360
Nomad II
Nomad II
jimh406 wrote:
All kidding aside, I could have used something like this before I bought my last pump. Mine is still working years later, so I guess I got lucky.


We replaced a 20yr old pump many years ago and then used it flawlessly for 5yr before selling the boat. Never had another fail. We just bought the cheapest readily available pump.

We full time and only operate off the fresh water tank, so they get heavy use.... must be lucky or they are all pretty reliable.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

StirCrazy
Nomad III
Nomad III
TCBear wrote:
RV WATER PRESSURE REGULATORS

Reiterating StirCrazy's concerns from an earlier post, wherein he was unknowingly experiencing 120 psi municipal water pressure spikes in his RV (spikes, if any, most often occur at night after industry shuts down and water demand slows, allowing pressure to rise). If you connect to a community water supply at campgrounds or RV parks (rather than simply filling your freshwater tank with a hose), you should definitely install a $15+ water pressure regulator, which limits water pressure into an RV at a manageable 40 to 55 psi. Very easy to install. There's many to choose from, adjustable and non-adjustable, with psi gauge and without. Google "Camco 40055" to Camco's website for a good description and photos of how they work.

And don't forget that while you can fill a freshwater tank with any garden hose so long as you flush it for at least 5 seconds (avoid dubious RV dump station hoses), for an RV park connection you need to use a "drinking water" hose, often white in color. These won't leech vinyl byproducts into the stored water as the hose warms in the sun.

I solely boondock camp, no utilities, so perhaps others can comment on their experience with these pressure regulators.


that was actually in my house. if you got that in a RV you would swimming in no time and launching the cheap plastic tap sets all over the place haha I always use a regulator on my rv's, I just assumed when I bought the house there was one installed already as it is required under building codes up here.
2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK
1991 Slumberqueen WS100

TCBear
Explorer
Explorer
RV WATER PRESSURE REGULATORS

Reiterating StirCrazy's concerns from an earlier post, wherein he was unknowingly experiencing 120 psi municipal water pressure spikes in his RV (spikes, if any, most often occur at night after industry shuts down and water demand slows, allowing pressure to rise). If you connect to a community water supply at campgrounds or RV parks (rather than simply filling your freshwater tank with a hose), you should definitely install a $15+ water pressure regulator, which limits water pressure into an RV at a manageable 40 to 55 psi. Very easy to install. There's many to choose from, adjustable and non-adjustable, with psi gauge and without. Google "Camco 40055" to Camco's website for a good description and photos of how they work.

And don't forget that while you can fill a freshwater tank with any garden hose so long as you flush it for at least 5 seconds (avoid dubious RV dump station hoses), for an RV park connection you need to use a "drinking water" hose, often white in color. These won't leech vinyl byproducts into the stored water as the hose warms in the sun.

I solely boondock camp, no utilities, so perhaps others can comment on their experience with these pressure regulators.

TCBear
Explorer
Explorer
1 GPM "SINGLE FIXTURE" WATER PUMPS FOR SMALL RVS

The posts above relate to "standard" RV water pumps in the 3 gpm range. These come with 1/2 inch hose fittings for both inlet and outlet, and generally require a 10 amp RV fuse.

Should you need to replace a 1 gpm "single water fixture" pump in a small RV, these have smaller 3/8 inch inlet/outlet fittings due to their lesser flow, and usually require a 5 amp RV fuse.

For some reason the 1 gpm pumps tend to operate at lower pressures (typically 30 to 35 psi) than the 3 gpm pumps (typically 45 to 55 psi), perhaps because it's anticipated that pumps for small RVs will have shorter lengths of plumbing to push water through, and therefore less overall flow resistance to overcome via a higher pressure. (Imagine pumping a gallon of water through 10 miles of pipe versus 10 feet of pipe. HUGE difference. Pumps push...but pipe and fittings push back.) So long as you keep pressure below 60 psi in a common PEX RV plumbing system (generally white, red or blue tubing rather than older gray tubing, the industry standard since circa 2000), you should be fine.

In addition to the off-brands of 1 gpm pumps, here's two name brands:

FLOJET
-#RLFP122202A or #LF122022
-12 volts
-1 gpm
-35 psi
-3.5 to 4.0 max amps
-5 amp or higher RV pump fuse
-Bypass valve to reduce cycling and pulsation
-56 mm x 84 mm mounting hole spacing
-Run-dry survivability
-Two 3/8" barbed fittings included, strainer sold separately. Can use Flojet #01720023S or #01740-003S in-line 3/8" strainer or generic via search of "3/8 pump strainer."
-2 year warranty

SHURFLO
-#105-003 OEM or #105-013 Aftermarket, same pump
-12 volts
-1 gpm
-30 psi
-2.5 to 3.0 max amps
-5 amp or higher RV pump fuse
-57 mm x 81 mm mounting hole spacing
-Run-dry survivability
-Two 3/8" barbed fittings included, strainer sold separately. Can use Flojet #01720023S or #01740-003S in-line 3/8" strainer or generic via search of "3/8 pump strainer."
-1 year warranty

It's easiest to replace a standard pump with a standard pump, and a single fixture pump with a single fixture pump. The original pump choice made by your RV builder is most likely accurate, with little need to upsize or downsize for most folks. But should you want or need to switch from one flow range to the other, you'll need to address both the differently sized fittings and possibly fuse amperage and switch amperage as well. You may be able to find different threaded adaptor fittings to do so. If not, simply use barbed hose adapters via an InterTube search of "reducer barb 1/2 3/8." #APXC1238 is carried in Home Depot stores, #BHB-393NL (sharper and better barbs -- you can use it as a prison shiv) is carried in Lowes stores, and also see #RF885 online. For a simple coupler to join two pieces of 3/8" tubing together, see #BHB-290NLB, #APXC3838, or Everbilt #800069. For potable 3/8" reinforced vinyl tubing (3/8" ID, 5/8" OD), see Eastman #98627, EZ-Flo #98626, Everbilt #HKP002-PVC001, or generic bulk hose on EBay. Use proper, small hose clamps that max out close to 5/8" such as Ideal #6260419, Apollo #IDL15 or Everbilt #6260294. Note that some of the generic 3/8" strainers have a bizarre 0.492" outer dia. barb that is intended to fit both 3/8" and 1/2" tubing, so read carefully and consider paying extra for the Flojet strainer. Flojet states that 3/8" barbed hose fittings (and therefore the entire water system) can flow up to 2.1 gpm, so a standard 3 gpm pump can't likely be fully utilized to its capabilities in a 3/8" system.

Or you can train your dog to push a manual hand-pump with his paws whenever you're in your RV. Trust me, he'll do it for hot dogs.

jimh406
Explorer III
Explorer III
All kidding aside, I could have used something like this before I bought my last pump. Mine is still working years later, so I guess I got lucky.

'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.

NRA Life Member, CCA Life Member

TCBear
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the feedback and shout-outs, folks! Much appreciated. As was likely obvious, I didn't want to write a short reference guide to pumps since those are readily found on the InterTubes. I was actually going for the very LONG version with a dump truck's worth of details, one that even explains what NSF51 means and mentions the burst point of PEX. Many won't read my novella, but there's many factoids there for those who want that detail. I suppose I wrote it for you real and faux engineers out there.

Speaking of PEX, thanks for your details on that, StirCrazy. You're correct that there's several variations of PEX, and its reliability and capabilities including burst pressure start to get fuzzy after a decade of use, vibration and summer heat.

Glad my lengthy mosh pit o' wordage proved helpful.

opnspaces
Navigator
Navigator
Agreed, TCBear thanks for putting in the effort for the write up. Not only was was very informative but I'm sure we're going to see people referring to your post in the future as well.
.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup

jimh406
Explorer III
Explorer III
Bobbo wrote:
jimh406 wrote:
Why do we need 8 post from someone who's not an expert about water pumps? 😄

Why do we need posts from someone who has absolutely nothing to say on the topic of this thread?


Just to educate people on what a smiley face means. :D. I'm happy to help. 😉

'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.

NRA Life Member, CCA Life Member

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
Grit dogs tips for choosing a 12V replacement pump.
Open up Amazon app.
Purchase suitable name brand pump that has next day or whatever delivery.
Install.
Enjoy.

Great info posted by the OP, and maybe useful to someone who is largely or completely unfamiliar. To those same folks. Replacing a water pump (if you have good access to it, is literally as simple as 2 water line connections, 2 wires and 4 mounting screws. Please do not think it’s complicated.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

zigzagrv
Explorer
Explorer
TCBear, excellent post. Thanks for all the time and effort you put into enlightening us on water pumps!

Ron



2003 Gulf Stream Ultra Supreme 33'
F53 Class A
2013 Ford Edge toad

wildtoad
Explorer II
Explorer II
Very nice yet wordy write up, I think if my water pump fails after 16 years I’d be hard pressed to change brands. I have installed a small accumulator tank, not for the water pump but it stopped my water heater from dripping through the relief valve.
Tom Wilds
Blythewood, SC
2016 Newmar Baystar Sport 3004
2015 Jeep Wrangler 2dr HT