Norcold N611 AC circuit

[RVhiker]

I have an N611 Norcold refrigerator in a 2011 Jayco fifth wheel. The refrigerator has always cooled well both on AC and propane, and does not have any telltale yellow signs of leakage in the cooling system.

However, now the refrigerator will work only on gas. When the trailer is plugged into a 20 amp circuit at my house, with a ground fault detector in the house circuit, the ground fault detector turns off the electricity to the trailer. I have tested the AC circuit in the refrigerator by not having any other AC used in the trailer, including the power converter; and until the refrigerator AC circuit was plugged in, the Progressive Dynamics PMS shows 0 AC amps. When the refrigerator AC circuit was plugged into the trailer 120 volt system the ground fault interrupter on one house circuit cut the power after about 30 seconds, and on a separate house circuit (with another ground fault detector) in about 5 minutes.

What are my options?

[wnjj]

dougrainer wrote:

RVhiker wrote:
Yesterday, I noticed a problem with the romex that supplies the AC outlet in the refrigerator's outside access. A small loop of the romex was pressing slightly on a fairly sharp edge of a galvanized sheet metal brace that supports the sheet metal piece that the controls and etc of the refrigerator are mounted to. I looked at the romex, and there is a dark, sharp dent in the plastic outer jacket, maybe leaking current to the sheet metal bracket. I pulled the loop of romex away from the edge, wrapped the dent in electrical tape, and the AC refrigerator heating element is still working since then. I think that fixed the problem.

The link to the Norcold Service Manual is much appreciated.

Thanks to all for the electrical information and the willingness to help!

Thanks for the update. I MISSED where you stated HOW it tripped. A defective Heat element would NOT trip a GFCI unless the refer was turned ON to 120 power. Doug

It certainly could. The neutral side of the element is not switched and if it comes into contact with a grounded surface, the GFCI will trip even with the fridge turned off. This is no different than the neutral portion of the supply Romex touching ground.

GFCI's detect a difference between hot and neutral current OR a short between neutral and ground with no power flowing.

[dougrainer]

RVhiker wrote:
Yesterday, I noticed a problem with the romex that supplies the AC outlet in the refrigerator's outside access. A small loop of the romex was pressing slightly on a fairly sharp edge of a galvanized sheet metal brace that supports the sheet metal piece that the controls and etc of the refrigerator are mounted to. I looked at the romex, and there is a dark, sharp dent in the plastic outer jacket, maybe leaking current to the sheet metal bracket. I pulled the loop of romex away from the edge, wrapped the dent in electrical tape, and the AC refrigerator heating element is still working since then. I think that fixed the problem.

The link to the Norcold Service Manual is much appreciated.

Thanks to all for the electrical information and the willingness to help!

Thanks for the update. I MISSED where you stated HOW it tripped. A defective Heat element would NOT trip a GFCI unless the refer was turned ON to 120 power. Doug

[RVhiker]

Yesterday, I noticed a problem with the romex that supplies the AC outlet in the refrigerator's outside access. A small loop of the romex was pressing slightly on a fairly sharp edge of a galvanized sheet metal brace that supports the sheet metal piece that the controls and etc of the refrigerator are mounted to. I looked at the romex, and there is a dark, sharp dent in the plastic outer jacket, maybe leaking current to the sheet metal bracket. I pulled the loop of romex away from the edge, wrapped the dent in electrical tape, and the AC refrigerator heating element is still working since then. I think that fixed the problem.

The link to the Norcold Service Manual is much appreciated.

Thanks to all for the electrical information and the willingness to help!

[pianotuna]

In the mean time--a work around is to plug the fridge into an inverter--then power the inverter from the converter.

[CloudDriver]

Link for Norcold service manual below. See page 37 for location of AC heater element.

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ncoldnnewnseries.pdf

[RVhiker]

What's involved in replacing that heating element? I am rather capable in repairing most things and am not intimidated in repairing anything if I have the tools to do it and some knowledge (or instructions) about how to do it.

[dougrainer]

You have a Heater Element with an imbalance of current draw. On a NON GFCI circuit the element would work OK. Just replace the 120 element. Doug

[trailrider]

Sounds like the heating element in the fridge is bad.