Lippert Electric Jack & Inverter and CONverter issues

[JHblack]

I’ve searched all of the previous threads regarding Lippert Jacks. Arrived at CG on Thursday and went to deploy auto level system after disconnected from truck. The auto system would raise front jacks and then it would stop. I could hear what I think is / was a circuit breaker popping. Unit would stop and I could not auto level. CG attendant came over and looked and we saw that voltage was dropping way below 10 volts at times. I charged both batteries and load tested them and batteries are good just weak. Auto level still would not work.

CG guy said that I could have a bad CONverter although it sounds like Cooling fan was running. The Touch Screen from lippert kept telling me to clear faults which required auto retracting all jacks. Did this and still no joy.

Had to lower jacks and guess with a level so unit was somewhat plumb.

Not sure if Converters fail so soon as this is a 2020 FR Nitro XLR 407. Come home today, unhook and auto level worked fine although center jacks did not deploy. Also noticed that the INVERTER switch inside the door was only showing a green light for 12 Volt and not the normal blue light that says AC In.

Even when leaving with main line still connected to truck and a meter on batteries it appears that would charge batteries but not from shorepower.

Is there a chance I have a bad CONverter thus no power to batteries and if so why will I not show AC IN at my switch ????

Keep in mind all other systems worked while on 50 Amp Shore Power.

I’m perplexed at this point.

[3_tons]

If you disconnect the battery and the green light stays ON at the INVerter and the fan stays ON at the CONverter, I would then suspect the battery or a connection…

3 tons

[JHblack]

KD4UPL, I understand your statement on batteries. I did not clarify it very well. Batteries are new Interstate Batteries and when this s&#t Show started I checked batteries immediately and found that they were week (not fully charged) so I charged them for several hours and then they were back up to normal and were holding a charge. I even load tested both after charged and they were Good.

I hope this clears it up for you. Sorry.

I am planning on pulling out wall underneath this AM and get in CONVERTER so I can examine and test fuses. If fuses are toast, then easy fix. If not then it’s still under warranty and I’ll let someone else deal it. I’m only trying to figure this out so if next time, outside of warranty, if the event happens then I know the cause. Just hate dealing with dealer, warranty or not Because they are normally 3-4 weeks out from beginning to end.

On a side note, I’m assuming that KD4UPL is a call sign for HAM?

[time2roll]

Yes a 10 volt battery could be indicating a failed converter. Could also be an open connection between the converter the battery. Assuming the battery held 12.6+ volts after charging them I would consider the battery fine for what you need to run some jacks.

You will need to verify operation of the converter. Basic operation is 120 vac in and 13.6 vdc out. Need to dig in and verify with a voltmeter.

Although the jacks should run fine on battery power assuming the batteries are mostly full charge. You could have a couple issues to resolve. Need to separate the items and start testing.

[KD4UPL]

You said your batteries are "good just weak". That makes no sense. Which is it? Good or weak? Can't be both.
If you have weak (bad) batteries your jacks won't work because the converter can't supply enough current on it's own. The connection to the tow vehicle can't supply enough current on it's own either. Both the tow vehicle and the converter might get it done except you've got bad batteries also sucking down power and likely turning it into heat.

[pianotuna]

Adding to what 3 tons said, the over load may well have blown the fuses in the converter.

[3_tons]

Ok, so lets assume that this occurred when you’d just pulled in to the CG whereby you’d just discovered this:

This suggest that your battery was dead when you first arrived and know that a lead acid battery is considered dead at only 10.5 volts…

So trying to deploy your jacks without a charged battery puts the entire load on the converter, and the converter is not really adequate or designed to shoulder this extreme amperage loading…

My bet is that your jack manual likely states the necessity of having a charged state of battery in place before operating the jacks…

The fact that the INVerter was showing a green light merely implies that the CONverter was ON and attempting to do its job, though well behind the curve and not well suited to power up the jacks..

If this all sounds correct, your battery has likely been damaged (due to 10.0v extreme discharge) and is likely in need of replacement…JMO

3 tons

[agesilaus]

You need to find out what model converter your unit has and find the manual online. That will have a troubleshooting guide. The converter takes 120V and converts it to 12V for all the 12V systems in your RV. It also charges the batteries.
An Inverter takes 12V, when you are off 120V and on 12V batteries, and converts that to 120 to run things like your microwave or TV. It has nothing to do with your trouble.
If you are plugged into shore power then the converter is providing the 12V not the batteries. Get a Digital Multimeter and start checking voltages.