โSep-18-2018 09:07 AM
โSep-18-2018 02:08 PM
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Manufacturers push the LED heat limit right to the bitter edge of functionality.
Keep an LED cool and stay under, well under the Imax current limit and a good LED will light for 20 years 24/7.
But RV LED lighting violates these rules. By a lot. So short life is the penalty. SHARP ELECTRONICS for large 10-100 watt chips and CREE for to 5 watt with proper heat sinking and power has given me the best results. Good luck finding CREE LED fixtures.
โSep-18-2018 01:56 PM
DrewE wrote:
.21 V in general would not make that big a difference in the brightness of the LED fixture. If it's a fixture with an active regulator, it should make no difference at all; but even with a cheaper design using e.g. a dropping resistor it should be at most barely noticeable.
You'll have a much larger voltage difference when using battery power alone, at least once the surface charge has dissipated.
It sounds to me more like a fault in the lamp itself.
โSep-18-2018 01:43 PM
bpounds wrote:
I would first check the individual LED chips in the lamp. You may have lost some. Can you swap it with one from elsewhere in the coach?
A .2 volt difference around a coach isn't unusual, probably means a less than perfect connection somewhere, or how you held the VOM probes. I would be more interested in the voltage measured at the battery and compared to elsewhere in the coach.
โSep-18-2018 01:33 PM
Lynnmor wrote:Last Train wrote:
The other question is why is there a drop in voltage from one side of the trailer to the other?
I would check multiple times in case the converter is switching modes or other items are switching on and off.
When the voltage can be repeated, then suspect a poor connection. Also try swapping the fixtures to see if the problem follows the fixture.
โSep-18-2018 11:10 AM
โSep-18-2018 10:16 AM
โSep-18-2018 09:51 AM
โSep-18-2018 09:42 AM
Last Train wrote:
The other question is why is there a drop in voltage from one side of the trailer to the other?