Fridge Defend ARP Device

[kmb1966]

Hi,
I just purchased the ARP Fridge Defend. I received instructional email from the company, and it is somewhat overwhelming. Has anyone here installed this device?? Was it difficult? Because the multiple pages links to 28 page manuals with more links and links within more links of reading can be somewhat unmanageable when trying to install something for the first time. Anyone install this on a Norcold with the Amish cooling unit???

[WesternHorizon]

Interesting claim...

"Most RV owners are installing this type of fire stopping protection behind the Norcold 1200 series refrigerators, due to the very high fire risk of the OEM cooling units till they have the Amish built cooling unit installed.

http://rvcoolingunit.com/SS-30-Halon-Extinguisher-Straight-Auto-Deploy-P1872263.aspx

[WesternHorizon]

kmb1966 wrote:
After researching through the ARP directions, I lowered the temperature to which the blower comes on. I think it was defaulted at 125 and I lowered it down 1 setting. Now the fan comes on more often especially during cooler weather.

Good idea. I decided to try this. Please see post above.

[WesternHorizon]

Added a new section: "Changing the ventilation blowers temperature"

This has the exact key sequence to use.

http://bit.ly/2Qyw9Ac

[WesternHorizon]

kmb1966 wrote:

The Green wire connects to the supplying ground wire that was connected to the refrigerator control board labled "Gnd".
Question: What happens to that open connector spot on the refrigerator control board where that ground wire used to be connected?? do you leave it empty or do you twist in another wire and connect it together with the green wire? :h

The refrigerator control board still needs a ground to operate.

So that ground is left alone and another ground is connected to the ARP controller.

This is shown on the "system map" on the previous page.

[kmb1966]

WesternHorizon wrote:
Worked up this illustration of controller wiring:

I have a question regarding this connection:
The Red Wire connects to the supplying 12 volt wire that was originally connected to the connector labeled "12V" on the refrigerator control board.
The yellow wire connects to the refrigerator control board where the supplying 12 volt wire used to be.
The Green wire connects to the supplying ground wire that was connected to the refrigerator control board labled "Gnd".
Question: What happens to that open connector spot on the refrigerator control board where that ground wire used to be connected?? do you leave it empty or do you twist in another wire and connect it together with the green wire? :h

[kmb1966]

WesternHorizon wrote:
I've been boondocking in cool temperatures and the blower circuit has not been coming on, so the fridge circulation blowers are off.

This affects propane use, so I lashed up a very simple option to control the circulation blowers from the fridge controller. It is working well.

See "OWNER OPTION: Operating the fridge circulation blowers from the fridge controller {OR} the Fridge Defend controller"

http://bit.ly/2Qyw9Ac

After researching through the ARP directions, I lowered the temperature to which the blower comes on. I think it was defaulted at 125 and I lowered it down 1 setting. Now the fan comes on more often especially during cooler weather.

[WesternHorizon]

ASA Glamis wrote:
The black wires have a a clip that is connected to the fins in the fridge. Any place that is grounded will work as the ground is the same anyplace.

“Wire the blower by grounding it to the fridge internal light. Do not ground the blower to the cooling fins, this will result in corrosion of the cooling unit and premature failure.” - ARP https://www.arprv.com/rv-fix-fridge-circulation-fan.php#about

Given the very low current of the two blowers (less than 1/10 amp), this corrosion may be limited and/or take a long time to develop.

[WesternHorizon]

I've been boondocking in cool temperatures and the blower circuit has not been coming on, so the fridge circulation blowers are off.

This affects propane use, so I lashed up a very simple option to control the circulation blowers from the fridge controller. It is working well.

See "OWNER OPTION: Operating the fridge circulation blowers from the fridge controller {OR} the Fridge Defend controller"

http://bit.ly/2Qyw9Ac

[ASA_Glamis]

kmb1966 wrote:

ASA Glamis wrote:

kmb1966 wrote:
I have a question on this: How do you wire up the internal fans? The blue wire provides the power(12volt) but how did you ground it? I grounded mine to the black wire on the light, but I am concerned that I may have done this incorrectly. Since I did this, ironically, the thermistor is reading erratically at times. I changed the thermistor but it still is reading odd. It may have nothing to do with the fan install, but it is odd that this behavior with the thermistor began when I connected up the internal fans. I plan to disconnect the internal fans and see if the problem persists.
The problem I am experiencing is the thermistor after a few days will read very low (11 degrees) even though it is 50 in the frig, and therefore the cooling unit not being triggered to come on and cool the frig. Happens after a few days of running. Like I said, it may have nothing to do with this ARP device, but it is a strange situation. How did you wire up the internal fans on your install?

I use the fan output (12 volt +)from the ARP for both my external and internal fans. It is just a 12 volt positive output. The ground is the same. This allows my internal fans to only run when the external fans are required. Not sure this is the best approach but seems to work well.

yes, I agree. That is what I did too, but where did you connect up the black wires of the internal fans?

The black wires have a a clip that is connected to the fins in the fridge. Any place that is grounded will work as the ground is the same anyplace.

[kmb1966]

ASA Glamis wrote:

kmb1966 wrote:
I have a question on this: How do you wire up the internal fans? The blue wire provides the power(12volt) but how did you ground it? I grounded mine to the black wire on the light, but I am concerned that I may have done this incorrectly. Since I did this, ironically, the thermistor is reading erratically at times. I changed the thermistor but it still is reading odd. It may have nothing to do with the fan install, but it is odd that this behavior with the thermistor began when I connected up the internal fans. I plan to disconnect the internal fans and see if the problem persists.
The problem I am experiencing is the thermistor after a few days will read very low (11 degrees) even though it is 50 in the frig, and therefore the cooling unit not being triggered to come on and cool the frig. Happens after a few days of running. Like I said, it may have nothing to do with this ARP device, but it is a strange situation. How did you wire up the internal fans on your install?

I use the fan output (12 volt +)from the ARP for both my external and internal fans. It is just a 12 volt positive output. The ground is the same. This allows my internal fans to only run when the external fans are required. Not sure this is the best approach but seems to work well.

yes, I agree. That is what I did too, but where did you connect up the black wires of the internal fans?

[ASA_Glamis]

kmb1966 wrote:
I have a question on this: How do you wire up the internal fans? The blue wire provides the power(12volt) but how did you ground it? I grounded mine to the black wire on the light, but I am concerned that I may have done this incorrectly. Since I did this, ironically, the thermistor is reading erratically at times. I changed the thermistor but it still is reading odd. It may have nothing to do with the fan install, but it is odd that this behavior with the thermistor began when I connected up the internal fans. I plan to disconnect the internal fans and see if the problem persists.
The problem I am experiencing is the thermistor after a few days will read very low (11 degrees) even though it is 50 in the frig, and therefore the cooling unit not being triggered to come on and cool the frig. Happens after a few days of running. Like I said, it may have nothing to do with this ARP device, but it is a strange situation. How did you wire up the internal fans on your install?

I use the fan output (12 volt +)from the ARP for both my external and internal fans. It is just a 12 volt positive output. The ground is the same. This allows my internal fans to only run when the external fans are required. Not sure this is the best approach but seems to work well.

[kmb1966]

I have a question on this: How do you wire up the internal fans? The blue wire provides the power(12volt) but how did you ground it? I grounded mine to the black wire on the light, but I am concerned that I may have done this incorrectly. Since I did this, ironically, the thermistor is reading erratically at times. I changed the thermistor but it still is reading odd. It may have nothing to do with the fan install, but it is odd that this behavior with the thermistor began when I connected up the internal fans. I plan to disconnect the internal fans and see if the problem persists.
The problem I am experiencing is the thermistor after a few days will read very low (11 degrees) even though it is 50 in the frig, and therefore the cooling unit not being triggered to come on and cool the frig. Happens after a few days of running. Like I said, it may have nothing to do with this ARP device, but it is a strange situation. How did you wire up the internal fans on your install?

[ASA_Glamis]

I installed mine a few years ago on a Norcold with the Amish upgrade.

Really pretty easy but as someone else said the placement of the fan sensor was the hardest part.

I used velco to attach the controller to the box around the control board for the fridge and that has worked well.

Yes there is alot of disjointed data in the manuals for this device but it seems to work well. Just have to filter out information that does not apply to your install.

[WesternHorizon]

RollandB wrote:
reading and rereading the instructions for my Dometic

http://bit.ly/2Qyw9Ac

Added a system map