Steep Driveway

[kfp673]

Hello All,

Not sure if anything can be done about my situation, but I figured I'd share to see if someone has any ideas.

We have a short but steep top half of our driveway which then flattens, turns to the left,s and into the garage. There is a nice spot for our travel trailer straight down the hill, but the problem is when backing the travel trailer down the rear bumper, spare tire, and rear Stab jacks hit due to the angle. We have been storing the trailer at a local storage yard for many years now which has been fine, but we are starting to think we would like it to be home. As of now, I go get the trailer the day before a trip and leave it hooked to the truck up in the street. It's a bit of a pain hauling all the clothes and food up. Not a huge deal but not ideal. The bigger issue is cleaning. I again have to do it in the street. Again, not the end of the world, but not ideal to have 2 slides sticking out into the street even in a fairly quiet neighborhood.

A few weeks ago we were determined to find a way to get it down so I could do some maintenance while we have the time and we were able to do so by having my wife place 2x6's under the right tires just before the bumper scrapped and continuing to pace them until the rear started to lift. It then clears by a few mm literally, but it made it. So my question is, is there any easy way to gain 1 1/2 to 2" of clearance? Go bigger tires maybe?? I guess we could keep using the wood trick, but if it kicks the wood or I slides off then the bumper and jacks may get damaged. Oh, and the driveway is paved so grading is really out of the question at this point.

Thanks for any suggestions and thoughts you might have. Not sure I can do much but let me know your thoughts.

[time2roll]

If it is just one spot I would be looking at making a ramp to smooth the transition.

[bpounds]

Might not even need casters. Just drag brackets on the bumper corners. The advantage over casters is that they won't need to be more than an inch or two tall, where casters are at least 3" if not 4".

I wouldn't worry too much about frame twist, but that's without knowing just how much rubbing you have. Wheels lifted off the ground? Definitely a problem. Only drag by a couple of inches? Probably NOT a problem.

Some lumber piled up in the gutter can sometimes help a lot too.

[Lwiddis]

I added casters for the occasional gas station driveway...not for everytime I back in to my driveway.

[BobsYourUncle]

Lynnmor wrote:
Don’t do the caster wheels on the rear, loading all that trailer weight on a corner is a good way to twist the frame. Trailer frames are not what they used to be.

IMO, your fears are unfounded.
All our rigs, even our tow vehicles twist and bend while going down the road. This is part of the design.

Lifting the back end while going up or down a driveway will have absolutely no harmful effect whatsoever on the TT. None. OP is talking a small amount of lift. And it is done at a very slow speed, and it is only for a few seconds.

Traveling down the road hitting heaves and dips in the road puts so much more flexing on the frame and unit as a whole than a minor temporary back end slight lift ever would.

Try it some time with a stabilizer jack. Crank one down and then try opening the door. The door will rack if the frame lifts on one corner. This is normal and nothing to fear.

Take any pickup truck and run one wheel up on a knoll or something, then get out and have a look. The truck will be visually twisted. Again, it's all built into the design and absolutely nothing to worry about.

Caster wheels are a perfect solution and will work fine with no ill effects. And it will work anywhere where there is a steep entrance to a gas station or other places. Yes, the frame can twist, flex and bend. It is designed to do this.

[kfp673]

Boomerweps wrote:
While I have what most would consider a short trailer 21' tip to stern, I had similar concerns with my driveway onto the highway from the crown of the road and driveway and the gutter dip. Better clearance pulling in than out. I recently had my axle underslung on the springs from over. Just that gained me 5&1/4" clearance (best I can measure). But before that I did not install my WDH spring bars until after leaving my driveway to keep the TV to TT better able to pivot at that dip. Do you back in with the WDH spring bars connected?

Might be worth a try. I use the BlueOx sway pro and typically do not disconnect for backing in so maybe I will try this first as this would be the easiest option if it works.

Regarding the casters, after reading about this in earlier post I noticed E-Trailer actually sells something specifically for this https://www.etrailer.com/Skid-Wheels/Ultra-Fab-Products/UF48-979013.html but it sounds like a few of you have concerns with this due to potential frame twist.

Great stuff all! Thanks again!

[Boomerweps]

While I have what most would consider a short trailer 21' tip to stern, I had similar concerns with my driveway onto the highway from the crown of the road and driveway and the gutter dip. Better clearance pulling in than out. I recently had my axle underslung on the springs from over. Just that gained me 5&1/4" clearance (best I can measure). But before that I did not install my WDH spring bars until after leaving my driveway to keep the TV to TT better able to pivot at that dip. Do you back in with the WDH spring bars connected?

[Y-Guy]

Growing up our neighbors had a similar issue. For him he installed a hitch on the front of his truck, he also laid out a couple of 2x10s but he carved out some 4x4's to provide support under the boards.

Today I think the first thing I'd consider is flipping the axles, if that's an option that would be a good choice. Then just need to address adding another step to your entry.

I'd echo Lynnmor's comment about the casters, those things are just asking for problems for your rig down the road (or sooner).

[souraider]

I would have to agree with flipping the axles.

[kfp673]

Thanks for the ideas all!

Regarding the drop hitch, when the camper levels off at the bottom the truck is still on the hill. If the hitch is too low it will grind into the driveway. So it fixes the back end but causes a problem on the front. My last travel trailer did exactly this. It sat a few inches lower than this one and would drag the hitch at the bottom and top of the hill. It was 5' shorter then this newer camper though so it did not have the rear end issue. This newer camper sits higher but the length being roughly 37' is what causes the back end problems.

Thanks again for the ideas. I will think on these to see if any will work.

[schlep1967]

My suggestion would be some long 2 X 12's. You'll have to figure out how long on each end. But I'm picturing a lead in 8' to the top of a 4" or 6" block and another off the back end. Attach a piece of angle iron to the bottom of the 2 X 12's and cut a slot in the block for it to sit in. And you may need to support the 2 bys in the middle depending on length needed.
Being straight in you should be able to stay on the boards. After you get the location figured for the boards mark the driveway so you know where to put them every time.

[NRALIFR]

At least consider a different RV type. Perhaps a B or C would be better able to negotiate your driveway than a towable.

:):)

[schlep1967]

Lynnmor wrote:
Don’t do the caster wheels on the rear, loading all that trailer weight on a corner is a good way to twist the frame. Trailer frames are not what they used to be.

+1 Really bad for trailers with slide outs..

[Lynnmor]

Don’t do the caster wheels on the rear, loading all that trailer weight on a corner is a good way to twist the frame. Trailer frames are not what they used to be.

[wnjj]

Maybe you could install air bags on the trailer. Inflate to stretch the suspension out. Deflate when you hit the road.