Solar System Feedback - Go Power Extreme

[WackAway]

Happy New Year Everyone!

Yesterday I dropped off my 5'r (Durango Gold G380FLF) at the dealer to get several small PDI issues taken care of. I've been looking at having a solar system installed and spoke with their service manager about which system they suggest. It turns out that they offer "Go Power" and "Zamp" solar systems. The manager suggested the "Go Power Extreme" for my application. This system has three 160 watt panels (480 watt total), controller, ATS and all other pieces/parts needed to completely set it up. The system looks pretty solid.

The one thing is the price. The Go Power system seems to be about 1/2 again as much as other comparable systems. I know solar component prices are all over the place and so is the quality. I'm looking for value and quality at a reasonable price point.

Has anyone here installed a "Go Power" system? What has been your experience? Is the system worth the extra $$$$'s?

Thanks in advance.

This is the system referred too: Go Power Extreme

[CA_Traveler]

Solar minus house load. Very concise.

When the result is positive the battery is charging, typically during the day.

When the result is negative the battery is being depleted, typically at night.

Common battery monitors (shunt on negative post) display volts and amps in/out of the battery. Many solar controllers display volts and amps supplied by the solar.

A meter to measure dynamic house loads is not as common but a few posters have installed one. I recorded static house loads with my battery monitor by noting the amps turning on a light and recording the difference. I did this for all house loads.

Charger minus house load is the same but usually the charger exceeds the house load so that the batteries are charging or maintained at full charge.

[azrving]

Steve,
Sorry, I could have worded it better. Solar minus house load.

[StirCrazy]

rjxj wrote:

John & Angela wrote:

StirCrazy wrote:

rjxj wrote:
that means that when your 480 watts is performing at its best in full sun TILTED it will only hit the batteries with 10 amps or so and maybe 15 plus at times.

that's way out. in September up north in the deep tundra (haha) with only two of there panels I was pulling 14 amps, he has three so they are rated up to 26 amps in his configuration and he should get very close to that considering he is down south. the panels used by go power are very high quality panels, not the cheep ones.

j

Agreed. With those conditions you will see in excess of 20 amps and probably close to 24 or 25. Its always the cosine off the incident angle and you can pretty much calibrate your meter with that. It is that accurate on a clear day.

To be accurate you need to quote the whole thing. I said that when his panels are putting out full power and house load is considered, he may only hit the batteries with 10 to 15 amps.


"I went back and read your last post again. If you are pulling 1 to 5 amps with 4 or 5 things during the day just say it averages 15 amps that means that when your 480 watts is performing at its best in full sun TILTED it will only hit the batteries with 10 amps or so and maybe 15 plus at times. Not good. Normally we are not using a lot of power while the sun is cranking the power in. When the sun is gone we then draw the most power. For us the only big draw when the sun is out is our resi frig at 5.x amps at half the time. As it cools in the evening and sun is gone the furnace kicks on and the television is on plus the fridge.
"

ahh so you mean after he takes care of the load that makes ore since. well that's good, he isn't depleting his batteries and even getting a charge. I know my meter just shows the total V and Amps going to the battery so unless you have a real expensive meter you won't know that, but if I were getting 10 amp charging during the day and most likely they are not going to use a sustained 15 amp draw down south, so your most likely going to see a net 50+ amp hour top up, then I would be happy. up here my furnace running 24/7 draws my batteries down about 45 amp hours in 30 degree weather and I am topped up every night before I go to bed in shoulder season for solar and that is with two panels. the fith is in right now getting a third put on and the larger charger so I will essentially have the same system as him but with the 2000 watt pure sign inverter instead of the 3000 watt.

Steve

[azrving]

John & Angela wrote:

StirCrazy wrote:

rjxj wrote:
that means that when your 480 watts is performing at its best in full sun TILTED it will only hit the batteries with 10 amps or so and maybe 15 plus at times.

that's way out. in September up north in the deep tundra (haha) with only two of there panels I was pulling 14 amps, he has three so they are rated up to 26 amps in his configuration and he should get very close to that considering he is down south. the panels used by go power are very high quality panels, not the cheep ones.

j

Agreed. With those conditions you will see in excess of 20 amps and probably close to 24 or 25. Its always the cosine off the incident angle and you can pretty much calibrate your meter with that. It is that accurate on a clear day.

To be accurate you need to quote the whole thing. I said that when his panels are putting out full power and house load is considered, he may only hit the batteries with 10 to 15 amps.


"I went back and read your last post again. If you are pulling 1 to 5 amps with 4 or 5 things during the day just say it averages 15 amps that means that when your 480 watts is performing at its best in full sun TILTED it will only hit the batteries with 10 amps or so and maybe 15 plus at times. Not good. Normally we are not using a lot of power while the sun is cranking the power in. When the sun is gone we then draw the most power. For us the only big draw when the sun is out is our resi frig at 5.x amps at half the time. As it cools in the evening and sun is gone the furnace kicks on and the television is on plus the fridge.
"

[John___Angela]

StirCrazy wrote:

rjxj wrote:
that means that when your 480 watts is performing at its best in full sun TILTED it will only hit the batteries with 10 amps or so and maybe 15 plus at times.

that's way out. in September up north in the deep tundra (haha) with only two of there panels I was pulling 14 amps, he has three so they are rated up to 26 amps in his configuration and he should get very close to that considering he is down south. the panels used by go power are very high quality panels, not the cheep ones.

Agreed. With those conditions you will see in excess of 20 amps and probably close to 24 or 25. Its always the cosine off the incident angle and you can pretty much calibrate your meter with that. It is that accurate on a clear day.

[StirCrazy]

rjxj wrote:
that means that when your 480 watts is performing at its best in full sun TILTED it will only hit the batteries with 10 amps or so and maybe 15 plus at times.

that's way out. in September up north in the deep tundra (haha) with only two of there panels I was pulling 14 amps, he has three so they are rated up to 26 amps in his configuration and he should get very close to that considering he is down south. the panels used by go power are very high quality panels, not the cheep ones.

[Canadian_Rainbi]

2oldman wrote:
You should assess your electrical needs first. That comes with a 3kw inverter. You really need that big an inverter? Do you have enough batteries to dry camp? How much dry camping do you do? Etc.

X2 And as was also said a KIT is usually more expensive than discrete components esp. since you will get what you want/need. Fewer panels, larger battery capacity or larger panels and less battery, large or small inverter etc etc etc.

Note though, if you are like many of us you will eventually wish you had more! Go for larger wire so if (when) you want to add a panel or two the leads will already be in place.

[2oldman]

WackAway wrote:
Huh? You all are scaring me. Maybe I should have first bought a complete solar system and then had them add an RV to it. 🙂

One of the down sides of having it done by someone else is that, unless you design it, you're at a loss to understand what they've done.

[CA_Traveler]

WackAway wrote:
Quick question. Is there a way to configure a system so I can combine the inverter output with the generator output to be able to run heavier loads like my AC units?

Sure install a Magnum MSH3012M and it will combine battery power and gen power and it only cost $2,000. :S

But wait A/Cs can draw 15A AC or 150A DC so you will need more batteries and more solar. Or a larger gen in which case you won't need the above hybird unit. On install a much smaller window A/C. :h

Lots of pricey options when you want to run high draw items off grid. :@

[CA_Traveler]

rjxj wrote:
And....:) If I was putting holes in the living room wall, they would probably be 2 or 4 small holes for the installation of a Bogart trimetric or victron, not a gaping hole for a go power controller. Controller goes down by the batteries. Monitor goes in living area for easy viewing from the lazy boy. Captain has to keep an eye on things. 🙂

My CC remote is in a cabinet along with other stuff. I can leave the door open to view or not. The equipment can be changed etc without any concern for holes in walls etc.

[azrving]

.

[azrving]

.

[azrving]

.

[WackAway]

2oldman wrote:

rjxj wrote:
Along with that they bonded his sub panel and installed a solar combiner block....

Yes, I forgot bout the inverter install details.

Sounds like OP is a good candidate for the whole-house install, not a subpanel.

Huh? You all are scaring me. Maybe I should have first bought a complete solar system and then had them add an RV to it. 🙂