Broke my hitch pin today

[Whangler]

Today, 900 miles in to a trip to Wyoming, driving hwy 26 near Palisades reservoir, 2 lane road with few turnouts, I heard a snap sound and soon felt as though truck had lost power. Drove another hundred yards or so before i found a pullout. Pin was gone and stinger held in by the chains. Well, the breakaway switch worked as it should. Ironic that i never carried a spare until just b4 this trip. Whew! that could have been ugly.

Wondering about the cause.
1. 5 year old, 20k miles distressed pin?
2. #1 above due to excessive rattle? Its a 3" receiver with an adapter for 2" stinger.
3. I tried one of those u-bolt anti rattle devices for the first time on this trip. Could that have done it?



It was one of those locking hitch pins btw. Truck is a '15 Silverado 2500 hd pulling an arctic fox 25r that weighs about 9k loaded.
Thanks,
Dave

[time2roll]

Perfect 😉

[Whangler]

OK fellas,OP here, mea culpa. Its a 2.5" hitch receiver and I'm using a genuine GM reducer to 2". There's a bit of play between the reducer and the hitch receiver and lots of play between the 2" shank and receiving end of the adapter.

I should have known that all these HD trucks would have a standard equipment hitch receiver that fits available WD shanks. Now I see there are readily available 2.5" WD shanks that fit my equalizer system. Thats what I shall get after this trip.
Thanks for your help!

[mkirsch]

noteven wrote:

deltabravo wrote:

Whangler wrote:
I've never liked that 3"-2" adapter set up. Think I'll visit the welder when I get home for some mods to the receiver.

Replace the hitch shank with a 3" version.
"Modifying" a trailer hitch by welding on it is never a good idea.

Hi deltabravo - why do you question welding a hitch shank using proper workmanship?

How, exactly, do you ensure "proper workmanship?"

I'm not an expert in welding. Most people aren't.

I do not know what goes into the design of a hitch shank. Most people don't.

I don't know anyone who could tell me with certainty that something as critical as a hitch shank is constructed with "proper workmanship." Most people don't either.

How do I know that someone didn't just lay a pretty "stack of dimes" but got ZERO penetration in the weld? How do I know that the builder didn't put too much heat into the weld making it brittle? Short answer is I don't, until the trailer decides to part company with the truck. Then it's too late. Will the fabricator stand behind his work, or when you point at him and say, "His fault," will he claim to have never seen you before in his life?

At least something commercially made has a big nameless faceless corporation and a fat liability policy for the other guy's lawyers to go after.

[Lynnmor]

noteven wrote:

BenK wrote:
This one that time2roll posted is a 6” raise/drop

This one has a 14” raise or drop and should or hope to be enough drop/raise for the OP..but it is $509 bucks https://www.bulletproofhitches.com/products/3-0-heavy-duty-14-drop-rise?currency=USD&utm_medium=cpc...

time2roll wrote:
https://www.bulletproofhitches.com/collections/3-0-hitches/products/3-0-heavy-duty-6-drop-rise

Just a random search. Not exactly common or low cost.

But BenK - this hitch ^ is welded.... :B

Lets see that shank with a weight distribution head on it.

[noteven]

BenK wrote:
This one that time2roll posted is a 6” raise/drop

This one has a 14” raise or drop and should or hope to be enough drop/raise for the OP..but it is $509 bucks https://www.bulletproofhitches.com/products/3-0-heavy-duty-14-drop-rise?currency=USD&utm_medium=cpc...

time2roll wrote:
https://www.bulletproofhitches.com/collections/3-0-hitches/products/3-0-heavy-duty-6-drop-rise

Just a random search. Not exactly common or low cost.

But BenK - this hitch ^ is welded.... :B

[noteven]

I has another question for the OP - why is there a "3 inch" receiver on a pickup truck?

Or does it have 3x3x .250 tubing reciever which = 2-1/2" inside which would be the 2-1/2" receiver hitch like my Ford F350?

[JRscooby]

Putting a 2.5 inch in a 3 inch hole? I can see where a sleeve would add extra play. And that play is like a hammer on the pin. (Short stroke, but it is a big hammer)
If it was mine I would cut some 1/4 inch mild steel to match the size of the 4 sides. Drill a couple holes in a pair of them, where I'm sure the pin hole will not be. Line 1 up, and tack thru the holes. Then I would use the 2 holes, to drill thru that plate. Repeat for other side. Tack top and bottom on, check for fit. Then using short welds, to keep from heating it to much. Grind a little taper on sides and bottom just to make it easier to start in.
Now I have faith my welds will not break, or cause the stinger to bend/break. But unless enough breaks for the top/bottom pieces fall out, you are no worse than now.

[Grit_dog]

Has anyone else picked up on the fact that the OP most likely doesn’t have a 3” hitch?

Nor has he been back to add to the discussion.

[Grit_dog]

Tom/Barb wrote:
This is why I reamed to the next larger hole and use a grade 8 bolt and self locking nut..

Because the holes wallowed out from using an adapter sleeve?

[time2roll]

BenK wrote:
If me, I’d get a 3” shank. Or the OP can change out the 3” receiver to a 2.5” receiver. Either way he is in about the same money.…

May as well look at a 2" receiver to match the existing equipment.

[BenK]

This one that time2roll posted is a 6” raise/drop

This one has a 14” raise or drop and should or hope to be enough drop/raise for the OP..but it is $509 bucks https://www.bulletproofhitches.com/products/3-0-heavy-duty-14-drop-rise?currency=USD&utm_medium=cpc...

time2roll wrote:
https://www.bulletproofhitches.com/collections/3-0-hitches/products/3-0-heavy-duty-6-drop-rise

Just a random search. Not exactly common or low cost.

[2_many_2]

"The problem is that there may not be any 3" shanks that work with weight distribution made. If a source is found, please post it."

This is what I found, Equalizer did not make a 3" with enough drop for my set-up.

[BenK]

A traditionally designed receiver has much going on that many welders do not understand.

The cross tube (square or round) is a torque tube that twists from the WD Bar/Trunnion WD hitch bar lever arm (moment).

That twisting is transferred to the side brackets that are bolted (some are welded to the frame rails, like the 4Runner etc.) That then lifts the TV’s rear axle and transfers that to the TV’s front axle

That cross tube is also twisted to a higher rate, unloaded and twisted the other way while driving (dynamic & cycling loading)

The why it is NOT recommended to drill/weld/etc on the cross tube. That creates stress raisers that WILL form micro cracks to propagate into cracking clean through the tube wall. Have also thought that some receivers might have the cross tube of higher grade metallurgy & possibly hardened

Hogging out the receiver pin box hole and shank hole has consequences too. Like reducing the cross section of the shank. Add that this OP’s setup is a 3” receiver box and a 2.5” reducer inside that receiver box…which am assuming allowing movement during the drive. THAT will create higher loads on the receiver pin box & shank.

Admit to having welded and/or drilled on the receiver end brackets, but after serious noodling of how the moments present themselves to that area. Tens of thousands of miles and no problems (don’t we all say that?)…

If me, I’d get a 3” shank. Or the OP can change out the 3” receiver to a 2.5” receiver. Either way he is in about the same money.

Have zero experience with 3” receivers/shanks and ask if the WD Hitch head the OP has now will fit either 2.5” or 3” shank ? Assuming it would, but not sure…

[Lynnmor]

deltabravo wrote:

Whangler wrote:
I've never liked that 3"-2" adapter set up. Think I'll visit the welder when I get home for some mods to the receiver.

Replace the hitch shank with a 3" version.
"Modifying" a trailer hitch by welding on it is never a good idea.

The problem is that there may not be any 3" shanks that work with weight distribution made. If a source is found, please post it.

[noteven]

deltabravo wrote:

Whangler wrote:
I've never liked that 3"-2" adapter set up. Think I'll visit the welder when I get home for some mods to the receiver.

Replace the hitch shank with a 3" version.
"Modifying" a trailer hitch by welding on it is never a good idea.

Hi deltabravo - why do you question welding a hitch shank using proper workmanship?