mkirsch wrote:
You might have to stand on the end of the wrench and give it a bounce or two to crack them loose. Just be aware that the wrench isn't going to hold you up and be ready to compensate when it turns. We don't need any skinned shins.
This is bad advice, unless talking to a kid. (kids bounce, and heal quicker) First, most, if not all, of the bounce energy will be absorbed by suspension of vehicle. And the vehicle moving makes not just a skinned shin, but a fall around hard things.
Use arms, firm grip on wrench, gradually transfer body weight from legs too arms/wrench.
Like I said before, if you use block or jackstand under hitch, more of the wrench travel turns the nut.
blt2ski wrote:
I'm going to go with a combo. Hitch too high as noted, along with too little HW. Nose high would make the too little HW be exaggerated some.
As noted, removing bolts adjusting etc is not a hard thing to do on the road. I've done it more than once. Have some penetrating liquid and a hammer to help it go between the threads helps. As would a 3-5' pipe to go over the breaker bar.
A tape to verify you really changed heights etc.
Marty
Also lowering the tongue will increase TW. Maybe not enough to matter, depending on where weight is in the trailer.
OP, about the fasteners. Working on a lot of stuff, for a lot of years, I have found the split type lock washers often break when reused, sometimes distort when removed first time. Unless you are sure you will only need to adjust once to get it right, get some cheap nail polish and remover. Tighten up, going to tow to test? Put marks on nuts, threads, and bolt heads so you can see at a glance at walkaround if starts to back off. Once you know it is right, take apart, use Loctite. (Touch-up paint lasts longer than nail polish to do the marks)
