Winter travel

[Brownsfan032]

I have a gas class A
I live in northern New Jersey and store my rig in my driveway. We are leaving for a family vacation to Florida leaving December 8th.
Trying to avoid winterizing then having to drain and sanitize for a week and then re-winterizing again.
Any suggestions. Thanks in advance.

[nickthehunter]

wa8yxm wrote:
Just remember there are two types of drivers when the snow flies.

Those who drive faster so they can get to the hospital and body shop on time.

And those who drive slower so they get to where they are going. Late but in one piece.

There are a third and fourth type also: those that drive at a speed appropriate for the conditions, and those that drive so slow (on roads that barely have a minuscule dusting of snow) that my 93 year old grandma could lap them with her walker while walking backwards.

[wa8yxm]

Just remember there are two types of drivers when the snow flies.

Those who drive faster so they can get to the hospital and body shop on time.

And those who drive slower so they get to where they are going. Late but in one piece.

[SuperBus]

Ed C wrote:
We just keep the heat on. More expensive that winterizing but much easier!

Same here; we avoid the hassle and keep the heat on (if you are confident your rig can avoid freezing in this manner). I have this scenario twice a year where the coach needs to get from indoor storage to somewhere before Christmas and getting prepped for spring break. We just keep the Aquahot fired up and heating elements on. It burns a little diesel, but far less than driving it, so not terribly noticeable.

[pianotuna]

Ask for a "rough service" bulb. They are rated at 130 volts and so don't fail.

In my RV I got a 240 volt bulb from England. It has been fine for 13 years.

[valhalla360]

Assuming the waste tanks are empty, I can winterize the water system with 2gal of antifreeze in about 15min....de...winterizing takes even less time.

[Rick_Jay]

rk911 wrote:
if you do that be sure to place a 60 or 100-watt incandescent light bulb in the wet bay. many RVs, even basement models, don't heat that area. cheap insurance. Amazon still has incandescent bulbs available.

I ended up purchasing & using a couple of low wattage "personal heaters", which put out about 200W. I prefer these to the light bulbs as those filaments can be fragile, especially in a 100W incandescent bulb. One of those heaters with an inline thermostat electric cord do a good job of keep everything above freezing. Most days, if the day forecast is mid-30's or higher, I unplug them until evening sets in.

But when I DO winterize, I use air to blow out each line, individually. Just make sure to keep each faucet open until all of the water is out. Make sure to blow out the toilet, sprayer, washer/dryer hookup (if equipped), outdoor shower and the black tank rinse (if equipped).

Putting RV antifreeze in the drains is a good protection, as well.

Right before you leave for your trip, fill your freshwater tank and head south! Enjoy the trip!

~Rick

[LouLawrence]

rk911 wrote:

Ed C wrote:
We just keep the heat on. More expensive that winterizing but much easier!

if you do that be sure to place a 60 or 100-watt incandescent light bulb in the wet bay. many RVs, even basement models, don't heat that area. cheap insurance. Amazon still has incandescent bulbs available.

Incandescent lights are getting harder and harder to find. Don't try with the the new ones that look like the old, those LED bulbs hardly put out any heat at all!

[camper19709]

Run the main furnace to heat the interior and storage bays. Put a heater or light bulb in the wet bay. Also, keep the water heater on. That has worked for me spending last winter in northern Delaware.

[ScottG]

JaxDad wrote:
Blow the water lines clear and pour a little antifreeze in the drain traps. No problem, I do it probably 6 or 7 times a winter between my 2 m/h’s.

Just be sure to read up on how to *properly* blow the lines clear.

No sanitizing required because you’re not filling the lines with goop, once you get the hang of it, winter ing takes 10 minutes, and getting ready for use takes less than 5 minutes. Hook up water and open taps.

This is what I've done every year.
Just don't forget the outside shower or tank flush!

[Grit_dog]

OP, don’t use antifreeze in the potable water system and that solves the problem of de-winterizing. Basically eliminates it.
Blow the lines out. AF in the pee traps.
Fill the tank with water right before you leave the house and drive until it ain’t cold anymore!

Or keep the camper heated and do nothing if you reasonably believe or know that will keep the potable system from freezing in late fall temps.

One is easier than the other if it works. Either is easier than winterizing the potable with AF and as a bonus, if you pick option 1, you’ll learn how to never have to muck up your water system with AF again.

[Grit_dog]

pianotuna wrote:
survive on bottled water for the trip?

Get a large plastic bag for the toilet and use some kitty litter in it.

Sorta defeats one of the main purposes of having a full featured RV. But you’re correct, yes it is technically an option.

[rk911]

Ed C wrote:
We just keep the heat on. More expensive that winterizing but much easier!

if you do that be sure to place a 60 or 100-watt incandescent light bulb in the wet bay. many RVs, even basement models, don't heat that area. cheap insurance. Amazon still has incandescent bulbs available.

[Mfan]

Winterize, then drain into the bottles and rewinterize with the same antifreeze.

[pianotuna]

survive on bottled water for the trip?

Get a large plastic bag for the toilet and use some kitty litter in it.