Torquing tire stud by hand

[SFVdave]

2015 Ford E-450 Had new tire put on. Not sure about torquing sequence in manual. They used a pneumatic gun at 12,6 9,3 7,2, 8 and 5. Then came back and use a torque wrench. Watching them, they seemed to hit the click and added a little more. Can they over tighten it and what are the consequences?

[Tvov]

Kavoom wrote:
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-digital-torque-adapter-63917.html

Works, has good reviews check out on Youtube.

Interesting!

[Kavoom]

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-digital-torque-adapter-63917.html

Works, has good reviews check out on Youtube.

[klutchdust]

jjrbus wrote:

The Budd wheel nut and stud assemblies are notorious for seizing up, especially the stud to wheel stud piece. Anti seize is a must.

"Not unless the manufacturer spec's it!"

Do as you please. Good luck.:R You do know what a Budd wheel is right?

[jjrbus]

The Budd wheel nut and stud assemblies are notorious for seizing up, especially the stud to wheel stud piece. Anti seize is a must.

Not unless the manufacturer spec's it!

[klutchdust]

jjrbus wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
Lots of wild claims here. 200ft lbs over the proper torque and 1” drive impacts?
Or some reeeeallly bad shops.
And considering I’ve never even seen a socket small enough for a light vehicle lug that would fit on a 1” drive, they actually reduced it down to use a, what, 20lb impact wrench?

Wheel torque nut specifications

Torque all wheels to 450-500 ft. lbs. (610-678 NM). It is recommended that wheel nuts be re-torqued after the first 50 to 100 miles of operation.


For use on American-made vehicles with dual rear wheels
Extra deep design conveniently lets you remove both nut and stud with just one socket
High strength steel construction means socket can be used with a 1 inch square drive impact wrench
1-1/2 inch hex with 13/16 inch square
Sold individually; also available as part of OTC's no. 1944 5-Piece Import and Domestic Budd Wheel Nut Socket Set .

The Budd wheel nut and stud assemblies are notorious for seizing up, especially the stud to wheel stud piece. Anti seize is a must.

[jjrbus]

Grit dog wrote:
Lots of wild claims here. 200ft lbs over the proper torque and 1” drive impacts?
Or some reeeeallly bad shops.
And considering I’ve never even seen a socket small enough for a light vehicle lug that would fit on a 1” drive, they actually reduced it down to use a, what, 20lb impact wrench?

Wheel torque nut specifications

Torque all wheels to 450-500 ft. lbs. (610-678 NM). It is recommended that wheel nuts be re-torqued after the first 50 to 100 miles of operation.


For use on American-made vehicles with dual rear wheels
Extra deep design conveniently lets you remove both nut and stud with just one socket
High strength steel construction means socket can be used with a 1 inch square drive impact wrench
1-1/2 inch hex with 13/16 inch square
Sold individually; also available as part of OTC's no. 1944 5-Piece Import and Domestic Budd Wheel Nut Socket Set .

[ron_dittmer]

Working on so many different vehicles at an auto charity here in the mid-west, the concern I have using a torque wrench on lugs is related to corrosion/rust. A torque wrench is great when all the lugs spin on freely and all mating surfaces are clean, but add significant corrosion and the torque cannot be trusted. Rust on the mating surfaces of the rotors-to-wheels and lugs-to-wheels all play a role in lugs not remaining tight. The corrosion crumbles after the fact and then you have under-torqued lugs. That is why they suggest to re-check the lugs after a while and why I personally add a little extra torque. The under-resourced people I help rarely check tire pressure and oil level. Asking them to check lug torque isn't going to happen.

[larry_barnhart]

crawford wrote:
I look at it this way it is you money if you feel better doing it do it. Don't listen to no one but your self.

I feel as you do it is my stuff and our money. I have wheel balancers on our 2021 TT and always balanced the G tires on our Alpenlite fifth

chevman

[klutchdust]

crawford wrote:
I look at it this way it is you money if you feel better doing it do it. Don't listen to no one but your self.

Sure, but it is also important to post fact based information.

[Tvov]

I have my TT camper tires balanced, but I don't bother with my landscaping equipment trailers.

I tow my TT at 65mph routinely. My equipment trailers are usually local, and usually 40mph or slower.

Years ago I asked my local shop to balance my TT tires... he said they don't bother balancing trailer tires. I asked again, saying that I tow it at 65mph, so I don't want vibration to be an issue. He said "hmm... I never thought of it that way".

I don't think it is a critical issue at all, but for the minimal cost (usually included with new tire or maybe $10 each) it makes me happy.

Why balance motor vehicle tires? Mostly because of the vibration at higher speeds. You can travel all day long on mildly unbalanced tires at 40mph. Go 65+, it gets annoying real fast.

[crawford]

I look at it this way it is you money if you feel better doing it do it. Don't listen to no one but your self.

[klutchdust]

CharlesinGA wrote:

klutchdust wrote:
"Since the primary duty of a trailer tire is supporting a vertical load, rather than gripping an automobile through turns, trailer tires do not have to be dynamically balanced like passenger car tires do. Steering and cornering are less of a concern on a trailer tire than they are on an automotive tire."

I haven't balanced any of my trailer tires nor was ever asked to have it done by the tire shops. Is there a difference in a balanced tire? Asked this question, and read

multiple responses from tire manufacturers etc. Interesting.

I absolutely insist on tires for anything, including trailers to be balanced. Balancing has to do with ride quality and vibration, and if you have out of balance wheels, its like the trailer is being driven on a dirt or gravel road 100% of the time. It loosens electrical connections, it makes things move around in cabinets, cabinet doors to come open and things to fall out, can cause water leaks, and generally wreak havoc on the trailer and everything in it. You also suffer from additional suspension wear, bolts and bushings, shocks if you have them, all take a beating with out of balance tires.

Airstreams for example, will pop rivets if they have a rough ride, and so Airstreamers are very attuned to having the smoothest possible ride for the trailer.

Wheel balancing has nothing to do with cornering ability on any vehicle, but has everything to do with the life of your trailer. Think what condition your house would be in if you suffered minor earthquakes every day? Cracked sheetrock, cabinets coming loose from the walls, etc.

Charles

I posted this for those that have limited knowledge so they can decide for themselves. It comes from engineers not me.

As far as Airstreams "popping rivets" I built Great dane trailers back in my youth and we used the same rivets that are used to build Airstreams using the same methods. Big rig trailers carry 40,000 pounds and have unbalanced tires and we did not see broken or popped rivets on units that were many many years old.

I have never heard of this happening or had issues with any trailers i owned vibrating nor could I feel it with my tow vehicle and I have pulled many different trailers thousand of miles. Some RV's use pop rivets for their paneling, Airstreams use "bucked" rivets like aircraft use.

I am glad that you have found a smooth ride for your travels.
I just don't know of anyone, personally, that balances their trailer tires.

[CharlesinGA]

klutchdust wrote:
"Since the primary duty of a trailer tire is supporting a vertical load, rather than gripping an automobile through turns, trailer tires do not have to be dynamically balanced like passenger car tires do. Steering and cornering are less of a concern on a trailer tire than they are on an automotive tire."

I haven't balanced any of my trailer tires nor was ever asked to have it done by the tire shops. Is there a difference in a balanced tire? Asked this question, and read

multiple responses from tire manufacturers etc. Interesting.

I absolutely insist on tires for anything, including trailers to be balanced. Balancing has to do with ride quality and vibration, and if you have out of balance wheels, its like the trailer is being driven on a dirt or gravel road 100% of the time. It loosens electrical connections, it makes things move around in cabinets, cabinet doors to come open and things to fall out, can cause water leaks, and generally wreak havoc on the trailer and everything in it. You also suffer from additional suspension wear, bolts and bushings, shocks if you have them, all take a beating with out of balance tires.

Airstreams for example, will pop rivets if they have a rough ride, and so Airstreamers are very attuned to having the smoothest possible ride for the trailer.

Wheel balancing has nothing to do with cornering ability on any vehicle, but has everything to do with the life of your trailer. Think what condition your house would be in if you suffered minor earthquakes every day? Cracked sheetrock, cabinets coming loose from the walls, etc.

Charles

[klutchdust]

"Since the primary duty of a trailer tire is supporting a vertical load, rather than gripping an automobile through turns, trailer tires do not have to be dynamically balanced like passenger car tires do. Steering and cornering are less of a concern on a trailer tire than they are on an automotive tire."

I haven't balanced any of my trailer tires nor was ever asked to have it done by the tire shops. Is there a difference in a balanced tire? Asked this question, and read

multiple responses from tire manufacturers etc. Interesting.