Residential Fridge

[kenbert]

About to install this Fridge

Anyone have any regrets installing a residential Refrigerator, would you go back to RV fridge. This one draws approx. 340 watts when running with compressor. I have a bank of 4 Golf Cart 6v batteries and a 3000 watt pure sine wave inverter.

I hope to get at least 12hrs of run time on the batteries before recharging. I left my old fridge on 24/7, lasted 24yrs.

Should I do the same or turn on when I need to.

Ken

[Joatha]

My Dometic died in fall of 2017 and I ended up swapping to a Samsung RF18.

I did have to make some cabinet adjustments but it has been a good move overall. The Dometic was about 6-8 inches shorter and I lost the drawer that was under the Dometic (which I really didn't use anyhow). I also had to move the upper cabinet up about an inch. It was tight due to the plumbing air vent but I made it work. I also bought a little device that keeps the refrigerator and freezer closed.

From an installation standpoint, I was able to get the Dometic out and the Samsung in via my front door. I did have to remove the doors off of both as well as the hinges and feet.

I wouldn't go back - more space, better lighting, better cooling. Its a great upgrade.

[kenbert]

deandec wrote:
No Icemaker in the Haier?

No Ice Maker.

[Chum_lee]

wa8yxm wrote:
The rule of thumb for 120 volts to 12 volt amps is divide by 10. So 340 watts will draw about 34 amps at 12 volts (yes I know this is not the "proper" way to do it but it takes into account several thins like inverter effiency and wire loss.. it works out amazingly close).

So with 440 amp hours 220 usable you have 220/34 hours of run time or about 6 hours. at 50% you MIGHT make it 12 hours but it will be tight.

NOTE this does not count the starting load. So I doubt you will do 12 hours plus not all inverters will let you run 'em down to half full (They tend to be set for MARINE/deep cycle which should be kept 3/4 full or better).

Nor does it count if you have a fridge with "reduce exterior moisture/condensation mode" option that is turned on.

Nor does it count when in defrost mode. (see article) High humidity areas, beware! Desert dwellers should probably be fine, . . . . at least for one hot summer day.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auto-defrost

Chum lee

[deandec]

No Icemaker in the Haier?

[jrclark]

I replaced our Dometic refrigerator with a residential model 3 years ago. I already had a 3000 watt pure sine wave inverter/charger and 4 deep cycle 6 volt batteries. Best upgrade I ever did was to replace the Dometic refrigerator. The ice cream stays frozen now.:)

[kenbert]

Executive wrote:
Back in 2014 our fridge failed for the second time. We replaced the cooling unit with the Amish one the first time to no avail. After this failure, I was done, so I switched to residential. Going on five years now and I would not buy another coach without a residential. We purchased the Samsung197 because it fit almost exactly in the same space our 1200 came out of. We took the old fridge out thru the emergency window and brought the new one in the same way using a forklift. Very easy to do. We run the fridge off the inverter while traveling and have run it all night off the inverter with zero problems. Below is a link to our install. I accomplished it myself over a two day period in a campground in Gulf Shores Alabama....Good luck. With a residential you'll be pleasantly surprised....Dennis

Nice Job, the Fridge I found is also the same width and depth as my Dometic but 6 inches higher which I will also remove the draw under the old fridge. Luckily the new fridge will fit through the door if I remove the 4 doors.
Residential Fridge Install

[kenbert]

Executive wrote:
Back in 2014 our fridge failed for the second time. We replaced the cooling unit with the Amish one the first time to no avail. After this failure, I was done, so I switched to residential. Going on five years now and I would not buy another coach without a residential. We purchased the Samsung197 because it fit almost exactly in the same space our 1200 came out of. We took the old fridge out thru the emergency window and brought the new one in the same way using a forklift. Very easy to do. We run the fridge off the inverter while traveling and have run it all night off the inverter with zero problems. Below is a link to our install. I accomplished it myself over a two day period in a campground in Gulf Shores Alabama....Good luck. With a residential you'll be pleasantly surprised....Dennis

Nice Job, the Fridge I found is also the same width and depth as my Dometic but 6 inches higher which I will also remove the draw under the old fridge. Luckily the new fridge will fit through the door if I remove the 4 doors.
Residential Fridge Install

[doc_brown]

Just replaced my 18 cubic ft Frigidaire Top freezer after 8 years. Just died. Put in 22 cubic ft side by side Maytag. Went in through the big window next to my dinning table. Easy fit through the window but a tight fit into the rough opening. Extended warranty company replaced, no issue.

[Executive45]

Back in 2014 our fridge failed for the second time. We replaced the cooling unit with the Amish one the first time to no avail. After this failure, I was done, so I switched to residential. Going on five years now and I would not buy another coach without a residential. We purchased the Samsung197 because it fit almost exactly in the same space our 1200 came out of. We took the old fridge out thru the emergency window and brought the new one in the same way using a forklift. Very easy to do. We run the fridge off the inverter while traveling and have run it all night off the inverter with zero problems. Below is a link to our install. I accomplished it myself over a two day period in a campground in Gulf Shores Alabama....Good luck. With a residential you'll be pleasantly surprised....Dennis


Residential Fridge Install

[kenbert]

wa8yxm wrote:
The rule of thumb for 120 volts to 12 volt amps is divide by 10. So 340 watts will draw about 34 amps at 12 volts (yes I know this is not the "proper" way to do it but it takes into account several thins like inverter effiency and wire loss.. it works out amazingly close).

So with 440 amp hours 220 usable you habe 220/34 hours of run time or about 6 hours. at 50% you MIGHT make it 12 hours but it will be tight.

NOTE this does not count the starting load.. So I doubt you will do 12 hours plus not all inverters will let you run 'em down to half full (THey tend to be set for MARINE/deep cycle which should be kept 3/4 full or better).

If the inverter is putting out 110V then 3 amps would be 330w AC.

3 amps DC would be 36w . Is this correct. Why convert to 12v when the inverter is 110v AC.

[kenbert]

Ivylog wrote:
340W when running is REALLY high for a EnergyStar...my 21cuft Whirlpool uses 8 amps DC (96W) measured before the inverter. 2 batteries should run a EnergyStar refrigerator for 24 hours before needing to recharge as it only runs 40% of the time.

The info I got from Haier was 3amp usage when compressor on, maybe the 340w was wrong.

[wa8yxm]

The rule of thumb for 120 volts to 12 volt amps is divide by 10. So 340 watts will draw about 34 amps at 12 volts (yes I know this is not the "proper" way to do it but it takes into account several thins like inverter effiency and wire loss.. it works out amazingly close).

So with 440 amp hours 220 usable you habe 220/34 hours of run time or about 6 hours. at 50% you MIGHT make it 12 hours but it will be tight.

NOTE this does not count the starting load.. So I doubt you will do 12 hours plus not all inverters will let you run 'em down to half full (THey tend to be set for MARINE/deep cycle which should be kept 3/4 full or better).

[sgfrye]

kenbert wrote:

sgfrye wrote:
our first Travel trailer came new with a whirlpool residential (can't remember size but wasn't double door), two 12volt wally world batteries and 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter. current TT has rv dometic fridge

you should be good with the 4 6 volts

-loved the storage space of the residential and didn't take as long to cool down. left it running while traveling down the road. 8 to 9 hours at a time on longer trips

-i could go 24 hours easy using the batteries and not drop below 50 percent charge even in hot weather.

-we don't boondock so it worked great for us

-our rv fridge does seem to keep a more constant temperature. 36 in fridge neg 2 in freezer. the residential seemed to have more swings in temps depending on outside temps but nothing major

-overall i've been happy with both. i do like the convenience of running on propane if needed.

I also like the convenience of propane, I could go with a new cooling unit, but the fridge is 24 years old. A new RV fridge is tripple in price as a residential, thats why I'm going with Residential.

price is a part of the equation also. i would not replace my rv fridge with another when it comes time because we don't boondock. i would go residential.

[Horsedoc]

This is our 3rd MH, but first with a residential fridge. It is more space than we need but it was there and the price was right. Haven't used it enough to give a good answer, but it seems to be great. Certainly don't have to worry about the running out of propane and everything spoiling. Not crazy about the stainless cabinet. Shows fingerprints! Don't think we would switch back to the RV type