Rebuilt brake calipers and headlights go out / high beams

[fourthclassC]

Howdy folks. Had a stuck caliper about 2 years ago. (front) Changed out both to rebuilts, new flex lines, repacked bearings with new grease seals. (High temp red grease) all went well for 2 years / about 6000miles. Yesterday the left front froze up and I had to replace it. Any one know a better way? does any one rebuild their own calipers with higher quality seals that last longer?
Also discovered another problem. When the high beams (headlights) are on , the headlights go out. Wondering if any one has had / resolved this. 2003 Winnebago Mini 24V Ford E350/V10

Thank you..

[Stim]

I have an assortment of home made spoons for brake adjustment that I have needed through the years because all are not accessible.

[fourthclassC]

Update from OP.
Front caliper working fine. Decided to adjust my rear parking brake also. That was very difficult on the drivers side. Just to confirm the set up because there seemed to be a lot of confusion on the internet about this. For this chassis - 2003 ford E350 V10, the rear brakes are disks with not cable adjustment possible. It must be done by removing the rubber plug and turning the star wheel with a screwdriver or brake spoon. Right side is easy access because it is at the bottom. Left side is at the top and very difficult to access because it is right against the leaf spring, but it can be done.

Also I strongly suggest any one with this set up to keep an eye on the rear brake pad wear to avoid any scoring on the disks because they require a lot of work to remove for replacement or re surfacing.

[OLYLEN]

This is why most shops install new parts rather than rebuilt or refurbished. If your DIY its not that expensive for new.

LEN

[fourthclassC]

All great info. Thank you .

I used that exact same purple grease on the pad slide areas. Silicone grease on the pins. Rebuilt caliper is ok so far. Steel pistons (there are 2) in those calipers, so I got that going for me. Just wonder if there is not a higher quality seal available to use if I rebuild the calipers next time.

[fourthclassC]

All great info. Thank you .

I used that exact same purple grease on the pad slide areas. Silicone grease on the pins. Rebuilt caliper is ok so far. Steel pistons (there are 2) in those calipers, so I got that going for me. Just wonder if there is not a higher quality seal available to use if I rebuild the calipers next time.

[CharlesinGA]

Many Ford truck calipers use a phenolic piston in the caliper. A combination of the differences in material, corrosion, build up of crud between the piston and caliper, and it seizes when it gets hot. I have had this happen twice on my '91 Ranger in the interstate traffic in Atlanta when the calipers get high mileage (100k). Allowing them to cool frees them up. I replace them after this happens.

Charles

[j-d]

That's the one. Thanks Brother!

[klutchdust]

j-d wrote:

Stim wrote:

It's very easy to rebuild calipers.

Thanks for the reminder. I'd forgotten how I usually did that.
Still, one big advantage to driving a Class C is being able to go to the local chain store autoparts, get a "Ford Van" Caliper and do a simple swap wherever the thing seizes.
There's a recommended slide lube from Permatex, a Purple Stuff, called Extreme Temp Ceramic or some such wording.

[j-d]

Stim wrote:

It's very easy to rebuild calipers.

Thanks for the reminder. I'd forgotten how I usually did that.
Still, one big advantage to driving a Class C is being able to go to the local chain store autoparts, get a "Ford Van" Caliper and do a simple swap wherever the thing seizes.
There's a recommended slide lube from Permatex, a Purple Stuff, called Extreme Temp Ceramic or some such wording.

[Stim]

The sticking could be the caliper slide area needs high heat lub.
It's very easy to rebuild calipers.
Basically disassemble, clean w/brake clean, sand bore smooth, check piston condition (make sure it fits smoothly in bore, no cracks/chips).
Lub with brake fluid and assemble with new seal.
To get piston out use VERY low air pressure, they come out fast!

[sgip2000]

Since I service 4 vehicles at home, I bought one of these.

Branick G300

It's awesome!

[sgip2000]

Plastic or metal pistons? I've never seen plastic pistons that didn't stick.

[klutchdust]

time2roll wrote:

klutchdust wrote:
As a young man, driving my 1976 chevy van pulling a coleman tent trailer,I smoked the brakes coming down a steep grade, stunk like heck, used my manual trans to stop,brake pedal to the floor. After they cooled I drove home, removed the pads sanded them and re-installed. Drove it for another 40k without an issue. Same brake fluid. It passed state inspections every year in NJ where they drove your vehicle on a ramp them slammed on the brakes to check them, anyone remember that .It measured brake stopping power,IDK

And maybe with new fluid the brakes may have faded a bit but not failed. It is the accumulation of moisture in the fluid that reduces the boiling point.
One stab at the brakes is not a test of the fluid condition.

Maybe, no way to know for sure. i do know, looking back, 100% driver error. As far as NJ DMV procedures back then, in no way do I defend or accept their testing as anything but hogwash.

With that being said, i have been unable to find a reputable source to base the comments supporting fluid changes. Having wrenched my entire life and been surrounded by some of the best mechanics in the automotive Industry i have yet to find someone who does it or feels under normal situations it is necessary to change your fluid.
I want to read about how a person experienced an issue and can show that the fluid was the culprit. How was the fluid tested, what should one look out for, why now is it an issue and not 20 years ago.
Curious is all. I Had the oil from my Duramax tested and received lab results based on facts and analysis, where can I send my brake fluid to be tested and see actual lab results.

[time2roll]

klutchdust wrote:
As a young man, driving my 1976 chevy van pulling a coleman tent trailer,I smoked the brakes coming down a steep grade, stunk like heck, used my manual trans to stop,brake pedal to the floor. After they cooled I drove home, removed the pads sanded them and re-installed. Drove it for another 40k without an issue. Same brake fluid. It passed state inspections every year in NJ where they drove your vehicle on a ramp them slammed on the brakes to check them, anyone remember that .It measured brake stopping power,IDK

And maybe with new fluid the brakes may have faded a bit but not failed. It is the accumulation of moisture in the fluid that reduces the boiling point.
One stab at the brakes is not a test of the fluid condition.