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Low Battery on my Winnebago Adventurer

J-Rooster
Explorer
Explorer
My chassis battery won’t start! My battery boost also will not help start the engine, I push the battery boost switch to on position and I have no response. My chassis battery is dead and both my house batteries are reading 13.8! I do hear some clicking from the solenoid and when the keys are in the ingintion and I play with the keys I do at times get idiot lights. There is a sticker near my batteries saying disconnect batteries before charging, does this mean turn my battery control switch off are actually disconnecting the positive cables on all 3 batteries? And what is the reason for doing this? I currently am running my gen set to get house batteries charging at 14.0 to 14.2! If running the gen set don’t help then I’m going to take my chassis battery into town to get it checked out. Thanks, John “Rooster”
12 REPLIES 12

dalsn1
Explorer
Explorer
The Trikl-Start or Ampl-Start may help prevent a dead engine battery if you don't have something similar. My 2003 Winne didn't charge the engine battery when plugged in to shore power. The Trombetta relays are a known weak spot due to burnt contacts.

OLYLEN
Explorer
Explorer
Now the reason your Emergency start didn't help is most likely that the emergency start solenoid gets its power from the chassis battery. So you could not get house battery power to help the start.

LEN

kmb1966
Explorer
Explorer
J-Rooster wrote:
Thanks to everyone who helped! I just took the engine battery got it charged, reinstalled it and the coach fired right up! All batteries are charging in the 14 range after coach runs for awhile. Rooster

Sometimes I look to see if the HEADLIGHTS will come on bright and normal. If not, I suspect my battery is D.E.D. DEAD.

J-Rooster
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks to everyone who helped! I just took the engine battery got it charged, reinstalled it and the coach fired right up! All batteries are charging in the 14 range after coach runs for awhile. Rooster

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Ther are several possible issues.. When the chassis battery on my workhorse died at 9 years of age the boot system was not enough. I ran a 2nd jumper cable from house to engine and VAROOM. replaced the engine battery and all was good.

I've also had issues because Damon used the WRONG terminals on the positive lead on the chassis battery. Common crimp on RIng terminals instead of a proper Battery terminal. different metals. the resulting corrosion required frequent cleaning. but under THOSE conditions boost worked.

The other suggestions above are good as well but get the battery tested. (Chassis) cause if it is bad enough. nothing works.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

3_dog_nights
Explorer
Explorer
I know it's obvious, but I have to ask.....you do have the battery switches in the on position ?
Bob & Lynn
2 Chihuahua's, Ella, Gracie

was-2013 Open Range 424RLS,06' Chevy 3500, dually, Duramax/Allison

also was - 2015 Winnebago Adventurer 37F, towing 2003 Jeep Wrangler

now - 2021 NoBo 19.5, 2019 Honda Ridgeline RTL (Talk about downsizing!)

emiddleb
Explorer
Explorer
If your chassis batteries are drained, then another possible reason your boost switch is not helping is that the chassis batteries are sucking up the power and it's not making it to the starter. Seen it before. Two quick fixes... hold down your boost switch for several minutes before trying to start the engine, or (better) since you are charging your house batteries with your gen, slap a pair of jumper cables between the house and chassis batteries. Let it run for a while and try to get some charge back in your chassis batteries.
2004 Winnebago Vectra 40KD
Roadmaster Tow Dolly

time2roll
Explorer II
Explorer II
Do you have a portable charger (10+ amps) that you can put on the chassis battery? Do it.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Your battery boost solenoid is BAD, Replace it. The fact that you can attempt numerous times and you get idiot lights means the solenoid is bad and will after numerous attempts will engage. What you CAN do and I do this all the time is continue to fiddle with the Boost switch with key on and when the idiot lights come on the solenoid has closed. I then use a small knife or toothpick to keep the Boost button engaged to then allow the Inverter/Charger to charge the chassis battery enough to get the engine to start. Usually takes less than 1 hour. Doug

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
I am guessing a Ford chassis.
When energizing the starter, do you hear a loud click?
Have you tried starting in neutral rather than park?

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

J-Rooster
Explorer
Explorer
OK, Thanks, Ron I’m doing that now!

rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Explorer III
John,
Try cycling your chassis battery disconnect switch a couple of times.
Running your generator will let your inverter/charger charge up your house batteries. Perhaps you can run a portable battery charger from any 120 volt outlet and let it charge your chassis battery while the generator is running.