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Electric heating

Licreek
Explorer
Explorer
As winter comes on it looks like I am not going to get way south. Going to spend the winter in the Dallas area as my son gets well in the hospital. So with that said I wanted to ask if and what type of electric heating I should consider for my 36ft Damon. Thanks for any info.
67 REPLIES 67

rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Explorer III
EmergencyNrse wrote:
Can you run x2 1500watt space heaters from a standard 110v shore line in the driveway or does it pull too much power?


Two heaters are going to draw 25 amps. Most 120 volt shore outlets are either 15 or 20 amps.

EmergencyNrse
Explorer
Explorer
Can you run x2 1500watt space heaters from a standard 110v shore line in the driveway or does it pull too much power?

Wild_Bill_888
Explorer
Explorer
For a single hose heat pump,

As long as the temperature of the discharge air is colder than the temperature of the replacement air leaking in (outside air temperature), there will be some heat gain from the air.

When the temperature of the discharge air is equal to the temperature of the air leaking in, there is no heat gain from the air. The only heat gain will be from the watt hours being consumed by the motors in the heat pump. This is he essentially the same efficiency as a resistance heating unit.

If the temperature of the discharge air is warmer than the outside air temperature, the net heat added will be less than the watt hours consumed, and might even be negative.

With a two hose heat pump, discharge air temperature will almost always be colder than the inlet air temperature, however at very cold temperatures the gain is modest and may not justify the wear and tear on the heat pump.

Some heat pumps include resistance heaters to provide added heat in very cold weather.

howdy35
Explorer II
Explorer II
We use a Lasko Ceramic in our Bus. Last night at 32 outside, kept our 37 footer at 65 degrees. Bought it at Walmart for $70.00. It is about 2 feet tall, 17 inches wide and 7 inches deep. It has high and low fan, heat can be set to temp and goes off when that temp is reached. We put a fan behind it and blow heat to the back. So far it keeps us comfortable. If we need aux, we can always run the furnace but choose not to unless absolutely necessary.

PM me if you need additional info. Arnold
1999 National Tradewinds 7370
2014 Honda CR-V--Toad
Fulltime

rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Explorer III
Busskipper wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
May I ask for a link to your make and model? Thanks in advance.

rgatijnet1 wrote:

As far as the brand of mine. It is an Spt but all single and double hose portable heat pump/AC units work the same way, except a double hose unit uses outside air.
My heat pump, with the single hose draws ambient air from the RV cabin. Some of that air is passed over the condensing coil, heated, and blown back out in to the RV.


http://site.sunpentown.com/WA-9061H.1061H_manual.pdf

HEAT mode
1. When HEAT mode is selected, the ambient warm air will be recycled and utilized to heat the
area where it is required. The Exhaust Pipe must be fitted properly to exhaust the cold
air outdoors.
2. Continuous drain is mandatory when unit operates in heat mode.
3. The working temperature range for heating function is 45~77ยฐF/7~25ยฐC. If ambient
temperature is outside this range, the unit may not work properly.


Might be it.


That sounds about right and since the ambient air is the inside of the RV, it works fine. As I mentioned, the RV has to be above 45 degrees inside for it to work right and I guessed around 95 as a max but apparently it is 77 interior temp as the max. We keep it running at about 65 degrees.

tropical36
Explorer
Explorer
Licreek wrote:
As winter comes on it looks like I am not going to get way south. Going to spend the winter in the Dallas area as my son gets well in the hospital. So with that said I wanted to ask if and what type of electric heating I should consider for my 36ft Damon. Thanks for any info.

Most of the time, when away from home, we are able to get by with electric space heaters that I pick up from time to time in the local dumpsters.
Then there's two overhead heat pumps and two propane furnaces for backup. The same with our water heater and both electric and propane. I might mention having the genset for supplying a lot of this, if need be, as well.
Seems that there was a person most recently in a deep freeze because of his aqua hot failing. Don't know if he had power available or not, but evidently without backup of any kind.
Is there an aqua hot system out there, that's not prone to eventual failure, that I haven't heard about?
I'm just old school, I guess.
"We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey."

07 Revolution LE 40E_Spartan MM_06 400HP C9 CAT_Allison 3000.

Dinghy_2010 Jeep Wrangler JKU ISLANDER.

1998 36ft. National Tropi-Cal Chevy Model 6350 (Sold)

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
All this 'discussion' regarding a particular heat pump

Has Hijacked the thread, and I'm not sure it is helping the OP make a decision
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

Busskipper
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
May I ask for a link to your make and model? Thanks in advance.

rgatijnet1 wrote:

As far as the brand of mine. It is an Spt but all single and double hose portable heat pump/AC units work the same way, except a double hose unit uses outside air.
My heat pump, with the single hose draws ambient air from the RV cabin. Some of that air is passed over the condensing coil, heated, and blown back out in to the RV.


http://site.sunpentown.com/WA-9061H.1061H_manual.pdf

HEAT mode
1. When HEAT mode is selected, the ambient warm air will be recycled and utilized to heat the
area where it is required. The Exhaust Pipe must be fitted properly to exhaust the cold
air outdoors.
2. Continuous drain is mandatory when unit operates in heat mode.
3. The working temperature range for heating function is 45~77ยฐF/7~25ยฐC. If ambient
temperature is outside this range, the unit may not work properly.


Might be it.
Busskipper
Maryland/Colorado
Travel Supreme 42DS04
GX470-FMCA - Travel less now - But still love to be on the Road
States traveled in this Coach

rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Explorer III
Not at the RV at this time. I bought it at Sears probably 5 years ago. It is an Spt brand, single hose, 10,000 BTU cooling, 9500 BTU heating. It also had a remote control and it draws less than 9 amps in either heating or cooling mode. I can't remember the model number but I am sure that Spt probably makes an updated model now.

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
May I ask for a link to your make and model? Thanks in advance.

rgatijnet1 wrote:

As far as the brand of mine. It is an Spt but all single and double hose portable heat pump/AC units work the same way, except a double hose unit uses outside air.
My heat pump, with the single hose draws ambient air from the RV cabin. Some of that air is passed over the condensing coil, heated, and blown back out in to the RV.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Busskipper
Explorer
Explorer
MrWizard wrote:
It's nice that it works
Nobody is saying it doesn't work

Only that you are confused on how it works

It's called a 'pump' because it moves heat from the outside air to the inside

It does Not extract heat from air inside to move it inside

You have a hose to the outside and that is where the heat comes from the 'outside' air


Think the Moderator is CORRECT.

It's called a 'pump' because it moves heat from the outside air to the inside.



This is the Science of the Heat Pump ....BUT....if the outside air is "Leaking into the Inside air" ...............then just maybe, you could be partially correct?

But sure seems as if it just may be Magic, as it goes against the Science of a Heat Pump.

But ........................(long pause) ......if you are happy with the way it works for you fine, not worth getting all excited about ..............(another long pause)........

So as my Granddaughter would say "Just Calm Down" Guy's

Sometimes we DO NOT KNOW ALL THE FACT's........Could it be that it is expelling/Pumping out the Cold Air?

JMHO,
Busskipper
Maryland/Colorado
Travel Supreme 42DS04
GX470-FMCA - Travel less now - But still love to be on the Road
States traveled in this Coach

rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Explorer III
JaxDad wrote:
A heat pump works by taking heat from the air in one place and moving it to another. Thus the term โ€œpumpโ€.

You cannot with a heat transfer pump take heat from a single space and put it back in the same space and end up warmer than before. Extra heat requires extra BTUโ€™s, period.

If your unit is making heat without an external source of BTUโ€™s it is from the parasitic (friction) losses of the pump and motor running.

The only concepts I can grasp are facts and science.

Magic and hokus-pokus are beyond me.


Portable heat pump/AC units have been produced and sold for decades with many happy buyers. Perhaps you should read how a single hose heat pump works. Be sure that you don't get confused between AC and heat pump operation.
As far as the brand of mine. It is an Spt but all single and double hose portable heat pump/AC units work the same way, except a double hose unit uses outside air.
My heat pump, with the single hose draws ambient air from the RV cabin. Some of that air is passed over the condensing coil, heated, and blown back out in to the RV. Some of the air taken in, BUT NOT ALL OF IT, is blown back out over the evaporating coil and is expelled to the outside, thus completing the entire refrigeration process.
My unit must have an INSIDE temperature of 45 degrees or higher to be able to function as a heat pump, since that is the only air it uses. At anything over 45 degrees, it will start warming the area as soon as you turn it on. If it warms the area to 95 degrees, then it stops working efficiently. We usually keep the inside of our RV at 65 in the Winter so the air being used by the heat pump is 65 degrees, regardless of the outside temperature.

JaxDad
Explorer III
Explorer III
A heat pump works by taking heat from the air in one place and moving it to another. Thus the term โ€œpumpโ€.

You cannot with a heat transfer pump take heat from a single space and put it back in the same space and end up warmer than before. Extra heat requires extra BTUโ€™s, period.

If your unit is making heat without an external source of BTUโ€™s it is from the parasitic (friction) losses of the pump and motor running.

The only concepts I can grasp are facts and science.

Magic and hokus-pokus are beyond me.

rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Explorer III
JaxDad wrote:


Iโ€™m not going to make this a long dissertation, but unless your heat pump is capable of extracting more BTUโ€™s per CFM than than the incoming air contains, youโ€™re losing heat, not gaining it.

A heat pump works by extracting the few BTUโ€™s cool (cold?) air contains per cubic foot and itโ€™s not a high percentage at all.

If it was a high percentage like you describe, nearly every house in America would have heat pumps.


I'm glad you didn't go in to a long dissertation because as far as I am concerned, it would just make you look like a fool.
I have several years experience using my single hose heat pump/AC unit to keep us warm in temperatures as low as -5. Apparently you cannot grasp the concept of what works and what does not work. Go quote your dribble to someone who may believe you. I'm done with it.