May-10-2016 08:36 PM
Aug-18-2017 08:37 AM
Aug-12-2017 06:54 PM
Aug-08-2017 09:56 AM
Aug-01-2017 03:10 PM
tinner12002 wrote:djousma wrote:
Just wondering out loud if there are any mice carcasses in the fresh water tank? That's a pretty big hole, and it wouldn't surprise me if they went in there.... They would get in, but would not be able to get out.
That was my thoughts also after seeing that pic of the fill tube.
SteveB wrote:
Outlaw,
The waste tanks do not have an overflow. Either the tank is cracked or a connection (in, out or vent) is leaking. When I replaced the black tank in my Jayco I cut the top pipes and unbolted the drain valve. The new tank I used rubber grommets made for the purpose with black silicone automotive gasket sealer and short stubs. Fernco couplings completed the connections.
For the sensors you can get Horst Miricle sensors. Leave the old ones in place and put the new ones nearby.
The waste tanks are mostly black ABS. Cracks can be repair with black ABS cement (from a big box store) and some "boat cloth" fiberglass which can be sourced from a rust repair kit or marine parts place. I fixed my old black tank bottom and it held up great until the top cracked-thus the replacement.
For the fresh tank you could install a 6" dia deck hatch to gain access to the inside of the tank for a good clean out and sanitizing. I put one in the top of my old Dutchmen FW tank but the whole tank was accessible under the couch. The deck hatch is water tight for incidental contact but I would not put one on a side. https://www.amazon.com/Seaflo-Round-Inspection-Hatch-Detachable/dp/B01ASBBZXQ/ref=sr_1_16?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1501243588&sr=1-16&keywords=deck+hatch
Great work keeping this one going!
laknox wrote:SteveB wrote:
quote quote
Personally, I'd also put in a main drain on the FW tank to aid in flushing. I have one on my Komfort, and it makes cleaning it a breeze. I think it's a 1.25 or 1.5" line and valve.
Lyle
Jul-28-2017 07:23 AM
SteveB wrote:
Outlaw,
The waste tanks do not have an overflow. Either the tank is cracked or a connection (in, out or vent) is leaking. When I replaced the black tank in my Jayco I cut the top pipes and unbolted the drain valve. The new tank I used rubber grommets made for the purpose with black silicone automotive gasket sealer and short stubs. Fernco couplings completed the connections.
For the sensors you can get Horst Miricle sensors. Leave the old ones in place and put the new ones nearby.
The waste tanks are mostly black ABS. Cracks can be repair with black ABS cement (from a big box store) and some "boat cloth" fiberglass which can be sourced from a rust repair kit or marine parts place. I fixed my old black tank bottom and it held up great until the top cracked-thus the replacement.
For the fresh tank you could install a 6" dia deck hatch to gain access to the inside of the tank for a good clean out and sanitizing. I put one in the top of my old Dutchmen FW tank but the whole tank was accessible under the couch. The deck hatch is water tight for incidental contact but I would not put one on a side. https://www.amazon.com/Seaflo-Round-Inspection-Hatch-Detachable/dp/B01ASBBZXQ/ref=sr_1_16?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1501243588&sr=1-16&keywords=deck+hatch
Great work keeping this one going!
Jul-28-2017 05:08 AM
Jul-28-2017 03:48 AM
djousma wrote:
Just wondering out loud if there are any mice carcasses in the fresh water tank? That's a pretty big hole, and it wouldn't surprise me if they went in there.... They would get in, but would not be able to get out.
Jul-27-2017 09:54 PM
Aug-10-2016 05:09 PM
Jun-01-2016 09:06 PM
May-23-2016 06:59 PM
May-18-2016 01:47 PM
May-13-2016 06:58 PM
laknox wrote:
Nice job, Outlaw. As far as the FW tank goes, you should have a main drain for it, and that should suck out any "junk" if you fill it full. From then, you can sanitize it.
Lyle
thirtydaZe wrote:
Yeah man, you kicked that things butt. That before and after is amazing. I love watching threads like this.
SabreCanuck wrote:
Biggest things to check are:
1) SAFETY (new tires, fire ext., fire alarm, CO2 detector)?
2) Water leaks? The entire outside should be sealed from the inside in one way or another. Nice thing about good cleaning is it is an inspection at the same time. If there are any joints/seams that are not sealed then seal them. Water doesn't necessarily run downhill in an RV. Case in point, I searched high/low for the leak on our 'project' to finally discover that the previous owner appeared to have put a jack through the floor right behind the tires. Every time towed through the rain it would have flooded the floor. I was looking for leaking wall/roof.
3) Does everything work? On electric and Propane? Test and if not then figure it out. Yep, you can do it.
4) Back up plan for necessities? If it's chilly out, take an electric heater with just in case furnace doesn't work. Take a water bottle with in case you have plumbing issues
I'm nowhere near a guru but GOOGLE IS YOUR FRIEND. If you run across something, I can guarantee someone else has as well. Learn to search on Google and you can pretend to be a guru too. 🙂
I'm actually excited for you... Fun times!! LOL
Have fun!
Pure Diesel wrote:
Good job on the restoration.
Do not use the spray and foam, by itself, to fill the holes. Mice will still chew thru it. Go buy some "stainless steel" scouring pads and put them in the holes with the foam. The mice then can't chew thru. Mice and rats will chew thru PEX type piping, because they can actually smell the water thru the pipes. If you have any exposed PEX cover it up so they can't get to it. Also, PEX piping can't be exposed to any sunlight for more than 30 days.
Chiefcpo wrote:
The clear is not pex but luck to you the correct clamps were used (pex is a band the is squeezed and made of brass like material, the pex clamps will hold for a while but can and will loosen on the CTS piping as it is a tad smaller.
Great looking job
Pure Diesel wrote:Chiefcpo wrote:
The clear is not pex but luck to you the correct clamps were used (pex is a band the is squeezed and made of brass like material, the pex clamps will hold for a while but can and will loosen on the CTS piping as it is a tad smaller.
Great looking job
http://www.pexinfo.com/
Yes, the clear is a form of PEX. That looks like it is from "Wirsbo/Aquapex" brand.
I've been installing it for almost 20 years, as a licensed plumbing contractor. There are different manufactures with different types, but still a "Cross link method" type of material. Some are put together with collars and barbed fittings and some with a crimping method.
Sport45 wrote:outlaw85 wrote:
SHHH!!!! lol. Yes that was my first concern as well, "What is down there?". I was thinking of renting a camera to feed down and look OR if we just go with DO NOT USE. If there is anything, were talking a tank drop I'm assuming.
I don't know what it cost to rent one, but if it's much more than $50 you might consider buying instead. A pretty good one only cost $100. Sounds like it would of come in handy on this job.
BTW, Job well done!
Inspection camera at Home Depot
May-12-2016 09:09 PM
outlaw85 wrote:
SHHH!!!! lol. Yes that was my first concern as well, "What is down there?". I was thinking of renting a camera to feed down and look OR if we just go with DO NOT USE. If there is anything, were talking a tank drop I'm assuming.