Do's and don'ts of towing a loaded 12" tandem behind 5vr??

[Duke-44]

I'm heading south w/my side by side on trailer behind 30' 5th wheel, I have never done this before. I have to say I am a little nervous. I know there is only straight ahead. Any words of experience from the Knowing?

Thanks

[cummins2014]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
I think most factory RV hitches have a 300# tongue weight and 3,000# tow weight.

Mine is aftermarket, made for an RV , and adjustable on width to accommodated different frame width's . Mine is rated for 500# tongue , and 5,000# tow weight ,but I wouldn't go near that weight considering the light weigh of the fifth wheel frames , unless I did some bracing to the frame.

I tow a 7' x 10' single axle , 2K GVWR utility trailer behind my fifth wheel ,with a lightweight 10' inflatable pontoon boat for fishing . No issues with it other than I can't see it, other than the shadow. I need to install a camera , I would like to be able to see it . As far as the weight of the whole thing it's pretty light ,no concerns with hitch or the fifth wheel frame .

Saying all this mostly for the OP , also have a friend that tows exactly what the OP is towing behind his fifth wheel , 12' foot trailer ,and an ATV . No issues at all .

[Cummins12V98]

I think most factory RV hitches have a 300# tongue weight and 3,000# tow weight.

[TXiceman]

Duke44, I have not seen what you have for a 5er or a truck. Make sure you are within your truck and trailers ratings. Be especially careful of the weight limits on the rear bumper and hitch on the trailer. Most 5ers do not have a hitch on the rear rated to tow or haul much more than a couple of bicycles.

Ken

[JRscooby]

Michelle.S wrote:
The quickest and easiest setup for a small trailer like that would be to install a Surge Brake setup.

In my experience, once Surge Brakes are mounted, bled, and maintained, it would be easy to hook up and go. But if fitting brakes to a trailer that is not equipped? Run wires, not tubes.
If the trailer has brakes, they have to work to be legal. Do you need them? What is the GVWR of the 5th wheel? What is the weight of the 2 trailers, loaded and going down the road? Bet the other brakes will be overloaded if you don't have brakes on the last trailer.
If it was me, I would run a wire on TV so the AUX pin on the plug got same signal as the brake controller does. I would mount a 2nd controller near back, inside of 5th wheel. Use power from 5th wheel battery, and control from AUX. Before mounting the 2nd controller I would hook it up in TV, hook up the trailer, and adjust the settings. Mounted in the 5th, same settings will be good.
You could get by with a 5 pin connection between the 2 trailers, but I would use the standard 7. Likely cheaper, need no change on TV to tow w/o 5th wheel, and only need 1 spare.
BTW, I understand that most of the controllers we use could control the total number of axles on both trailers. But I bet the design expects all the axles to be loaded near the same. Just hooking the other trailer to brake circuit of 5th wheel likely would slide some tires

[WE-C-USA]

Back to the OP's post. A 12 foot trailer, loaded property, will do great behind a 5th wheel trailer. Been there and done that for almost 20 years. You will learn the do's & don'ts along the way.

[MFL]

I agree, at some legal point, surge brakes would be easiest option. My 2nd trailer has 2K GWR so no brakes on mine. I have had 2nd trailer about 1,200 on the axle, but never noticed any push, using great truck & FW brakes. Steeper downhills, 7% with sharp curves, no problem, using engine braking, other brakes as needed.

Jerry

[SDcampowneroper]

Take the rig for a test drive in an empty lot to see how sharp you can turn without one of the trailers hitting the truck or each other
Truck / 30' / 12', I suspect you may have a limit of turning radius ( unrelated to fuel range or bladder capacity)

[Michelle_S]

The quickest and easiest setup for a small trailer like that would be to install a Surge Brake setup.

[laknox]

Duke-44 wrote:
I'm heading south w/my side by side on trailer behind 30' 5th wheel, I have never done this before. I have to say I am a little nervous. I know there is only straight ahead. Any words of experience from the Knowing?

Thanks

If you have a factory receiver installed, it's likely to be 300 / 3000 lb rated; 300 hitch / 2990 trailer GVW. Most states require trailer brakes on a trailer rated at 3000 GVW and above. Staying under that means no trailer brakes...unless you add them or have a trailer > 3k GVW. At that point, you'd need to add some wiring, a 7-way plug and, maybe, a 2nd brake controller. I've never seen a doubles setup, so I don't know for sure. The reason I say this is that there are LEOs that will ding you for towing an =empty= trailer that's > 3k GVW and you don't have a brake controller installed. I know 2 people this has happened to when towing a car trailer, empty, with a small truck; just moving the trailer from one place to another. Same d-bag cop, both times.

Lyle

[4x4ord]

I'd say do practice backing a bit before you get in a situation where you have to back up and don't be afraid to back up .... it's not really that difficult.

[Cummins12V98]

TXiceman wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
In construction I always referred to feet and inches as it can be confusing. Example if someone says cut to 54" and you are used to 5' 4" that is a bit of a problem.

Bottom line proper communication is where it's at. I am sure Larry will concur!

Actually, it is supposed to written 5'-4".

Ken

I don't know if it's written in stone anywhere but that is the method of communication used within the Commercial Sub Contractors I worked with.

[TXiceman]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
In construction I always referred to feet and inches as it can be confusing. Example if someone says cut to 54" and you are used to 5' 4" that is a bit of a problem.

Bottom line proper communication is where it's at. I am sure Larry will concur!

Actually, it is supposed to written 5'-4".

Ken

[Cummins12V98]

JRscooby wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
In construction I always referred to feet and inches as it can be confusing. Example if someone says cut to 54" and you are used to 5' 4" that is a bit of a problem.

Bottom line proper communication is where it's at. I am sure Larry will concur!

Lot depends on where in the construction prosses you are, and what tools you have to hand. Many tapes the center of studs is marked better than the feet, and the inches to add to feet is even harder to see.
And doing the grade work, better look close at the plans, often they use feet and tenths.
One job, the state approved plan for driveway & drainage was in ft/tenths, and the plan for layout of slab under garage was in ft/in.

Every bit of site work I did was in tenths of a foot. Wall framing on 16" centers yes I would use the marks but mark 3/4" off along with an "X" to show what side the stud would go Actually I would use an "/" at that takes less time!

Ordering glass and windows for example ALWAYS use feet and inches!!!

[JRscooby]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
In construction I always referred to feet and inches as it can be confusing. Example if someone says cut to 54" and you are used to 5' 4" that is a bit of a problem.

Bottom line proper communication is where it's at. I am sure Larry will concur!

Lot depends on where in the construction prosses you are, and what tools you have to hand. Many tapes the center of studs is marked better than the feet, and the inches to add to feet is even harder to see.
And doing the grade work, better look close at the plans, often they use feet and tenths.
One job, the state approved plan for driveway & drainage was in ft/tenths, and the plan for layout of slab under garage was in ft/in.