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Mixed Solar upgrade

philh
Explorer II
Explorer II
5th wheel came with Zamp 30a controller, plus one 170W panel and one 45w panel, and a two port connection on the roof.

Already upgrading. and not real happy with their B* non std connectors.

Cost to add another Zamp panel is ridiculously expensive.

Trying to work with what I have in the new 5th wheel, and upgrading.

Plan right now
  • Keep the Zamp controller
  • Keep the 170w panel with it's SAE connector
  • pitch 45w Zamp panel
  • Install 100w and 200w panel with MC4 connectors


Zamp told me, the setup is good for 510w, so I should be good.

Now for the questions
  1. The roof connector is two port, if I go to zamp 3 port roof connector, I'll have to convert two MC4 wires to SAE. Is there a better option for the roof?
  2. How is the wiring likely done from roof port to controller, is it just one pair or two?
  3. Would it be better to connect the 100w and 200w together?
  4. A very basic question, is parallel the correct set up?


I haven't been able to get up on the roof to even pull the roof cap off and look at it, we've had a lot of rain.
7 REPLIES 7

philh
Explorer II
Explorer II
Controller is PMW.

Had an interesting chat with Zamp's tech support today. Without mentioning the fact I was going to be adding non zamp panels, I can parallel the zamp 170 panel with the 100w, just need to stay under 340w total. Total watts need to stay under 510w.

I'll parallel the 170 & 100w panels, and plug 200w into the 2nd port. Just need to get the adapters, parallel cable, and life should be good!

Lwiddis
Explorer
Explorer
"Keep the 170w panel...install 100w and 200w"

You could bring in a max of about 26.32 amps under perfect conditions which is under the max of your 30 watt controller but not by much. Is your controller MPPT?
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi Phil,

Any chance of getting another 170 watt and putting it in parallel? Or even two of them? They don't need to be zamp.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
kWh by location https://www.eia.gov/energyexplained/solar/where-solar-is-found.php
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

Dusty_R
Explorer
Explorer
I read somewhere once that Michigan ranks 47th of the 48 continental states, in available sunshine.

Anyone know if there's a chart somewhere that gives the amount of power that you could expect to be produced in your area ?

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
Parallel panel voltage should be close - like 0.5V. Parallel and 12V panels are your only choice with the controller AFAIK.

Likely 1 pair, likely need larger gauge wire, look up 3 to 1 MC4 connector.

Post panel specs, controller specs, wiring length and gauge.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

mordecai81
Explorer
Explorer
AM Solar has a combiner box and Zamp to MC4 conversion leads that would work. It would be one less connection conversion. The Zamp setup on our trailer has one pair of wires (10 gauge, I think) from the combiner box to the controller. I'm taking off the old Zamp box on the roof and putting in their new black 3 port box since I added a third Zamp panel last year. I'll have to fuse the panel leads since Zamp relied on a inadequate fuse embedded in their old box instead of fusing the factory leads. I believe their current leads are fused from the factory now.