Yellowstone and Tetons from Washington State

[rvshrinker]

Staying in June at Fishing Bridge in Yellowstone, then 2 nights at Colter Bay in GTNP. We are coming from Western washington.

To me it looks like the best plan is about an 8 hour day from home (metro Portland OR area) to somewhere west of Missoula; then an early wake up and 5 hour day to Bozeman and the north entrance, so we have the afternoon to mosey on down to the campground and get there for an early dinner.

Then home from Colter Bay we’d go 5-6 hours to between Twin falls and Boise, ID, then the 6-7 hours home.

I’d be almost entirely on the interstate this way. Your thoughts about this plan?

Towing a 27’ trailer.

[profdant139]

Just to add to Richard's excellent points, we have seen big traffic jams at YNP triggered by something as trivial as a coyote sighting. Be careful on winding roads -- you can come around the corner and there is a long line of stopped cars. It may take a half hour or more for the jam to clear, after the coyote walks back into the bushes.

[richardcoxid]

Some general information about YNP (some items apply to GTNP also)

YNP is about 45 miles E/W and about 65 miles N/S (2.2 mil. Acres total). The figure 8 loop road inside the park is about 140 miles around. The lower loop is 96 miles and the upper loop is 70 miles around and yes, it is bigger than the states of Rhode Island and Delaware combined.

Whatever time that you think you will need to see YNP you better double it, or to say it another way is that you will see one half as much as you planned on in the allotted time. The Bison think that they own the road (they do!) and will slow down the traffic to walking speed or all stop for 1/4 mile or more blocking both directions of travel, the thermal attractions also tie up traffic and with a 5 month long summer tourist season that coincides with a 5 month long road construction season and a 45 MPH radar controlled speed limit it will take about a full day to see each loop and then you will only see the main attractions. In addition to the occasional construction delays they will also sometimes close whole sections of road (for uninterrupted night construction) between 10 PM and 8 AM in the morning, if you are running late and get caught at night in the wrong area it CAN be a LONG way around to your CG! (The entrance stations will have current construction information or go on line to check it out)

Then there is the elevation- YNP ranges from a low at Mammoth- 6239 ft to 7784 ft at Fishing Bridge or higher if you go hiking and there are passes on the grand loop road that are close to 8000 ft or so! Drink plenty of liquids and pace yourself when walking.

I recommend that you get up EARLY, leave the CG and be back by 4 or 6 PM have dinner and be sitting in your recliner drinking a cool one when your neighbor drags himself back to the CG at 8-10 PM. Remember that from mid May to mid July in YNP the sun doesn't set until about 9:30- 9:45 PM then there is a long twilight.

Cell Phone Service- Only at the major visitor centers, otherwise spotty to non-existent!

Clothing- Especially in the early or late season it is not unusual to have a 30 or even the occasional 40 degree temperature change throughout the day. Dress with easily shed layers of clothing. Also dress in bright easily seen clothing. I am sure that we all have been to a sporting event, parade or Disney World etc. and we blink our eyes and our partner/child has disappeared. My DIL was born and raised in HI, you guessed it, every Xmas, b-day or Father's Day I receive a Hawaiian shirt. One of them is shiny black with 4-5 inch dia. bright flowers. Not many of them in Wyoming and in YSNP, that is what I wear. If your partner has on a Violet blouse and a Orange scarf with a Pink hat I guarantee that she will be the only one within the boundaries of either NP. It can save you a few anxious moments.

Water- Now I will have to contradict myself, at the altitude of YNP yes, drink lots of water! HOWEVER, be aware that the flush toilet restrooms are are in the major tourist areas- Mammoth, Canyon, Fishing Bridge, Lake Hotel, Bridge Bay, Grant Village, Old Faithful, Madison Junction etc. The geyser basins and other thermal attractions areas only have pit toilets. I have seen the pit toilet line (2 rest rooms) at the lower Geyser Basin 25 or more feet long (bless the tour buses) So be smart about drinking your water and use the major tourist area R/Rs before leaving the area! I.e. “Never pass up a flush toilet!”

Sun- At YSNP altitude the Sun is intense (uv)have and apply sunscreen, wear that old floppy wide brim sun hat, wear Sunglasses!

If your luck is like mine Old Faithful will have just erupted when you get there and you will have up to a hour and 10 to 15 minutes wait for the next one. Tour tour the O/F Geyser basin while waiting. O/F INN is a must see, reportedly the largest LOG building in the U.S. (Meals in the O/F dinning room are “OK” also.

We have lived about 110 miles from West Yellowstone, MT since 1964, go to YSNP 3-4 times a summer (normally before Memorial Day and after Labor Day) and haven't seen it all yet! So don’t be discouraged that you didn’t have the time to see all of it. Just plan on coming back another time!

I honestly don’t mean to scare or discourage you but to give you a heads up as to what to expect! After all there was 4.1 million visitors in 2015! As far as I know we didn’t lose one of them. Except those who by their own stupidity step off the board walks into BOILING HOT water and ignoring the warnings about the WILD ANIMALS! That is called purifying the gene pool!Early in the summer of 2017 a foreign visitor stepped off a boardwalk into just a few inches of hot water. He walked about 100 yards (according to the newspaper) broke thru the crust and parboiled himself. The park service decided not to try to retrieve the body! Between the temperature of the water and the acidity of it the body would just fall apart when retrieving it, as well as being dangerous to the rangers. Of course a few Bison fall in every winter also.

Note I have seen on this blog and others about folks “day tripping” from YSNP to GTNP, it is done all the time (myself included) however remember this is BIG country and with the speed limits, animals and thermal attractions you will NOT come close to a 60- 65 MPH average. From the West Thumb Area, Grant Village Visitor Center (extreme S/E corner of the lower loop road) to Jackson, WY is about 80 miles with Coulter Bay being about 1/2 way then from Grant Village you have to add the distance to your CG it will be a Long days trip!

A point of Coulter Bay (in GTNP) clarification- there are two (2) CG’s at Coulter Bay, One, the “Coulter Bay RV Park” a full service “RV Park” with FHU’S that takes reservations. The other is the “Coulter Bay Campground “ has no hookups and doesn’t take reservations. Both have about 300 sites and are located basically across the road from each other.

Also in GTNP be sure to see Jenny Lake, the water is swimming pool clear! You almost feel like you are in space when you are on the boat dock and you can see the rental boat shadows on the bottom of the lake!

When in the Jackson area I highly recommend seeing the Bar J Chuckwagon dinner show! If you go, MAKE RESERVATIONS and BE THERE EARLY TO PICK UP YOUR MEAL TICKETS/ TABLE SEATING ASSIGNMENTS! They seat you by when you show up to get your tickets NOT by your reservation number. Tim, their fiddle player has won the "Idaho state old time fiddle contest 7 times and the US open fiddle championship twice". If you decide to go you will sit at picnic type of bench seats/table, they get pretty hard, I recommend that you take along a blanket/pads to sit on. We day trip it there 2-4 times every summer just to see them! Disclaimer- We have no financial or other interest in the Bar J only that it will be the best $$ value for your money for your trip! Check out their website.

http://www.barjchuckwagon.com

Also in Jackson check out the “COWBOY” bar, the bar stools are saddles and check out the # of Silver Dollars imbedded in the bar. The Wort Hotel Bar (just around the corner from the Cowboy Bar) also has Silver Dollars imbedded in the Bar

[2gypsies1]

I-84 to Twin Falls, Idaho Falls, West Yellowstone is 813 miles

I-90 Missoula/287 to West Yellowstone is 811 miles

Google Maps made a notation about "time change".... not sure if this is the discrepancy... never noticed that before.

[rollexx]

I typed in Portland to West Yellowstone last night and got that time difference for the two routes .
I put it in again now and get about 2 1/2 hour diff. Apparently Mapquest uses real-time traffic info.

[paulj]

I'm surprised about a 3hrs longer drive via Spokane. How did it enter the park? Fishing Bridge is in the middle of the park, but driving time from park entrance might vary, especially with heavy tourist traffic. Straight in from the north is probably slowest.

I figured that asking for West Yellowstone was fairer, since that's equally accessible from I90 and from I84.

[rollexx]

We are taking the exact same trip in July. Fishing Bridge, and Colter Bay. According to mapquest it is almost 3 hours longer to go up thru Spokane although the distance is about the same.
We take 84 and spend the first night just East of Twin Falls at Anderson Camp. Nice park. Then a shorter day to Fishing Bridge. Hope you have a great trip!

[Bigdog]

Interesting fact. It took Lewis and Clark 14 days to get from Lolo Pass to Powell Junction, a distance of 13 miles.

[paulj]

I asked for distance to West Yellowstone. Distances to points inside the park are complicated by seasonal road closures. Once you leave the freeway, US20 and US287 are similar quality roads to WY.

To WY, GMaps shows the I90 route to be 2 miles shorter, but almost an hour longer. I'n not sure where that difference comes from. Maybe it ascribes a slower speed to US395 in WA - but that's divided highway. I90 over the passes on the ID/MT is a bit curvy, but I've only been bothered by that when the evening sun was in my eyes.

I've driven enough of both routes to say it's half dozen/six kind of choice.

[rvshrinker]

I am not locked into either route, but Google maps makes it seem shorter to Fishing Bridge through Spokane/Missoula than through Idaho Falls/West Yellowstone.

[paulj]

According to GMaps, the I90 route through Spokane and Missoula is about the same distance and time as the south one through Boise. But it looks like you are already thinking of taking the southern route on the way back.


US12 through Idaho adds a couple of hours. I like the scenery on 12, but Pullman WA to Bozeman MT was a full day's drive when I drove it in a suv 15 years ago.

[enblethen]

I like Bigdog's route from Portland area. It will take some time getting through the park, traffic.
My guess your overnight would be around Ontario, OR.

[Bigdog]

Possibly should have planned the other way and go up the gorge on I-84 to Pendleton and from there to Twin Falls and then I-86 to I-15 and then 20 to West Yellowstone and into the park.

[agesilaus]

I'd take Hwy 12 if I could, very scenic route.