Bucket List

[rbrand]

Going to knock another one off the Bucket List.
We are planning on taking the Ferry from Prince Rupert to Skidegate on Haida Gwaii(formally the Queen Charlotte Islands)in September
Would love to hear from anyone who has done it. What their experience was? What they recommend etc.

In the 60's when I was Navy Diver we did a job for the RCMP. The Hotel was full so we spent 2 nights in the Masset jail. But I never got much of chance to see the Island. I only saw the bottom of the harbour.

[SideHillSoup]

We are headed over July 26 retuning August 9. My best Man and buddy since birth, is 1/4 blood Haida and has been filling my head with tips on this and that for years. Finally when we said we were going this summer he sat down and again gave us hints but added why to to this and that, which made more sense.
We have a cabin booked both ways. Outside cabin for going over during the day. Inside cabin for return trip at night.
He says on the return trip fill up with fuel on Haida Gwaii because 99% of the people that get off the ferry in Rupert will head to the closest gas stations, which usually mean line ups. It will cost a few more bucks, but like my buddy said once you hit Rupert your on the Hwy with very little traffic.
He also says the return trip at night so you can get a good rest, a hot shower in the morning and a bit to eat before the ship even docks.
He has us traveling to Morsby island first camp there and then head back over to Graham Island. His family are from Skidigate on the north island and he has spent more time there than on Morsby Island.
There are some campgrounds on both islands. He says that camping in the BCFSRS are what most people do with smaller rigs like truck and campers. But not always, there are some great BCFSRS that a huge rig will fit in. The two main spots on South Moresby are Morsby camp and Gray Bay.
On Graham Island the one we are going excited about being at is Rennel Sound BCFSRS campground. Now this campground is over on the western side of Graham island and the last few thousand ft are very steep. Buddy said make sure you have plenty of food, because if it rains.... you may have an issue getting back up that hill, it’s a 24% grade. This area and campground are the only ones assessable on the west coast of Haida Gwaii. Best crab fishing is on Graham Island on North beach and South beach. He says you have to have a salt water fishing lisence and make sure you read the regs. There are a couple places that sell and or rent nets, but he couldn’t remeber their names. Food is a little more expensive and the food trucks come across from Rupert on Wednesday, but he says it’s all fresh stuff just like at home, there just maybe a smaller selection.
We also bought a Backroad Mapbooks’ BC waterproof map for Haida Gwaii, which can be found on Amazon.ca or like I do I buy them from from BRMB ( backroadmapbook.com) I haven’t found a map with as much detail as the BRMB map of Haidi Gwaii. Last point... as your from VI you most likely have rain gear.... he says don’t forget it...lol....
Have fun
Soup.

[paulj]

I did this in the early 2000s in May in a RAV4 and tent.

We drove to Port Hardy (with overnight on Sointula), and then the overnight ferry to Prince Rupert. Camped one night east of there, and did a quick tour to Kitimat (I'd read about that development as a kid).

It was rainy the way back to to PR, and didn't seem to let up for the rest of week.

We had a cabin on the way over; though it was stormy enough that I spent some of the night in the forward observation lounge. We arrived at dawn to the misty isles.

Early in the morning there wasn't much to see around Skidegate and Village of QC. Drove north the Tlell and looked at the campground there, and hiked a bit. Water wasn't turned on yet. Then to Masset, and out to Agate beach. Spent 3 nights there, right behind the drift logs at the top of a steep pebbly beach. Lots of drizzle, even a bit of hail when we hiked to the top of Tow Hill and back.

Some pickups drove on to the beach, I believe for razor clam harvesting. I drove the RAV a ways down the sandy beach east of Tow Hill. Also went into Masset for groceries and a Canadian-Chinese meal. The road out to Agate beach was quite potholed and a bit washboard.

There was a new campground at Port Clements, but we just picnicked there.

Spent the next 3 nights at Hayden Turner (Lyons CLub?) campground just west of QC village.

Took the ferry to the other island, and looped around past Sandspit, and the beaches south of there (Rec Site camping) and logging roads past Moresby Camp.

Another day trip to Rennell Sound. Very steep grade at the end.

The night before we were supposed to leave (Victoria Day) ferry personnel came by to warn all campers that there were changes in the schedule. Because one boat was still in 'the shop' the Queen of the North (yes, the one that sank a few years later) was going have to do a quick trip to the islands and then head directly back to Port Hardy. The next morning we had to break camp early and get to the dock. The trip back was bright and sunny.

We motelled that night in Terrace, and returned to Seattle via Prince George, Wells Gray and Osoyoos.

Overall the guide book that I used as accurate. Online information helped as well, but wasn't nearly as detailed as one can get now.

[ppine]

You are on to something with this plan. I have always wanted to paddle to see the old village of Ninstints. I have been around some Haida and Kwakiutl culture. Proud tribes with fantastic artwork and plenty of attitude. I really like their totems, mortuary poles and panels the best.

[garyhaupt]

dkilley wrote:
I checked on google maps and it shows the road is called townhill Rd going East from Masset. It did not show the rv park at the end. At the end of the road there was a small RV park where you backup to the beach. Great place to go, and they were catching crabs with some hip waders right at the beach there. I would go back there anytime. I was driving a 28ft motorhome and would not go with anything too much larger than that. Have a great bucket list trip...

It is a provincial campground..and is as you describe. Small-ish. His 25ftr will be just fine. The beach is known as Agate Beach...bring buckets for the things to be kept. As for crabbing...I know some folks and can ask the question. It may be somewhat restricted..Haida fishing laws.

Have checked and yes...there are restrictions for non-Haida.


Gary

[dkilley]

I checked on google maps and it shows the road is called townhill Rd going East from Masset. It did not show the rv park at the end. At the end of the road there was a small RV park where you backup to the beach. Great place to go, and they were catching crabs with some hip waders right at the beach there. I would go back there anytime. I was driving a 28ft motorhome and would not go with anything too much larger than that. Have a great bucket list trip...

[garyhaupt]

rbrand wrote:
as I said "taking the Ferry from Prince Rupert to Skidegate"

If you have Rv'd on Haida Gwaii I would love to hear what you have to say.

Yep... in the RV. What do you want to know about?

One good tip...on the ferry over, you are traveling at night. A sleeping cabin is $100.00...a very sound investment. Coming back is daytime..not so necessary.

It is going to cost you $1000.00 for the ferry.

Gary

[rbrand]

as I said "taking the Ferry from Prince Rupert to Skidegate"

If you have Rv'd on Haida Gwaii I would love to hear what you have to say.

[garyhaupt]

As you said...from Prince Rupert....

Been there twice...if I can be of any help, let me know.


Gary Haupt