cummins2014
Utah
Senior Member
Joined: 02/20/2008
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
 Offline
|
Cptnvideo wrote:It is my understanding that it is NOT needed IF you have certain hitches AND if a visual check is done.
Your comment right there " It is my understanding " that IMHO is what gets people in trouble. So what hitches don't you need to do a pull test ,and which ones do you need to do a pull test ???
It's obvious from the B&W owners you do not need a pull test ,what other ones ??? My Reese Elite has that big thick jaw that wraps around the pin , very obvious when it's wrapped around the pin ,is that another one okay for no pull test ??? My previous Reese hitch was a dual jaw that wrapped around the pin , it was obvious when it was closed , then we got the slide bar, although never owned one ,it would IMO be obvious if it was closed behind the pin. Are those ones the certain hitches that a visual is all that is needed ??? The list goes on ,just have decide which one needs the pull test ,and which ones don't it appears .
|
MFL
Midwest
Senior Member
Joined: 11/28/2012
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
Cptnvideo wrote:It is my understanding that it is NOT needed IF you have certain hitches AND if a visual check is done.
When you say certain hitches, yes, some are safer than others. The operator's understanding of their hitch, and ability to operate it correctly is still a factor. It appears you have a quality hitch, but I've never used your model.
I've a serious question for cummins2014, a forum friend, that I know uses an Andersen hitch. Do you need to do a pull test, with this ball type hitch, and different style coupler attached to king pin?
Jerry
.jpg)
|
ReneeG
Meridian, Idaho
Senior Member
Joined: 07/13/2005
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
With a TrailerSaver hitch, Bd3 or BD5, as noted, the hitch has to be put in the 9 o'clock position for hitching, once it's hooked, not only will you hear an audible locking sound, that wonderful clunking noise, but the hitch handle then moves to the 8 o'clock position and the locking jaws are closed. This hitch as a true Holland Binkley head. We've never done a pull test. Any position less than 8 o'clock means you're not locked and you have to start over.
2011 Bighorn 3055RL
2011 F350 DRW 6.7L 4x4 Diesel Lariat and Hensley TrailerSaver BD3
1992 Jeep ZJ and 1978 Coleman Concord Pop-Up for remote camping
Dave & Renee plus (Champ, Molly, Paris, Missy, and Maggie in spirit), Mica and Mabel, both Rat Terriers!
|
cummins2014
Utah
Senior Member
Joined: 02/20/2008
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
MFL wrote:Cptnvideo wrote:It is my understanding that it is NOT needed IF you have certain hitches AND if a visual check is done.
When you say certain hitches, yes, some are safer than others. The operator's understanding of their hitch, and ability to operate it correctly is still a factor. It appears you have a quality hitch, but I've never used your model.
I've a serious question for cummins2014, a forum friend, that I know uses an Andersen hitch. Do you need to do a pull test, with this ball type hitch, and different style coupler attached to king pin?
Jerry
Jerry ,not sure I want to answer that , I may have 12V come after me on that . ![[emoticon]](https://forums.motorhome.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin") But no there is no pull test on the Andersen ,nor has there ever been a discussion regarding the Andersen ,and a pull test that I know of . Although there has been plenty of other discussions regarding the Andersen . The one big thing is locking the adapter to the ball. I would not like find out if it could bounce off the ball. I have read where its been discovered being unlocked after travel, without issue.
I kinda get a feeling where this is leading , but its entirely different process hitching up an Andersen . Yes , it's all visual . It's lined up , and lowered on the ball, until the landing gear is raised off the ground . In my case with the six point leveling system they are raised all the way up . Then the handle is pushed in ,and locked . At that point it's hitched .
Let me point out ,because I have the feeling when you asked about a pull test ,and the possibly I am assuming you are thinking missing the ball entirely . Yes you could very well miss the ball, it would be tough on the newer Andersen's that have that red alignment cone. mine does not . In either case if you missed the ball ,you would be setting your fifth wheel on the bed rails of your truck, not a lot to stop it at that point . At some point in that process you would certainly know you are not on the ball. ![[emoticon]](https://forums.motorhome.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
|
PButler96
Midwest
Senior Member
Joined: 06/13/2022
View Profile
Offline
|
The best hitch is the one owned by anyone responding lol. No one is gonna say, "I have a Hazard Fraught Zoombanger but I'm a dumbass, the best hitch is an ACME U812."
I have a burn barrel in my yard.
|
|
|
RCMAN46
NorthWest
Senior Member
Joined: 02/24/2008
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
|
Cptnvideo wrote:It is my understanding that it is NOT needed IF you have certain hitches AND if a visual check is done.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/YAN5pPul.jpg)
Here is a certain hitch had the owner done a proper pull test there may have been no or very little damage.
|
Cptnvideo
Arizona - most of the time
Senior Member
Joined: 11/05/2006
View Profile
Offline
|
Exactly what I said. He obviously had one of those "certain" hitches in which a visual test wasn't enough.
Edit: OR he didn't even do a visual check.
Bill & Linda
Arizona
2019 Dodge Ram Laramie 3500 dually 4x4 diesel
Hensley Trailer Saver BD5 hitch
2022 Grand Design Solitude 378MBS
1600 watts solar, Victron 150/100 MPPT controller, GoPower 3kw inverter/charger, 5 SOK 206AH LiFePo4 batteries for 1030 ah
|
MFL
Midwest
Senior Member
Joined: 11/28/2012
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
cummins2014 said: "Jerry ,not sure I want to answer that"
Thanks for the honest reply, and a good description of how you hookup! I have seen the Andersens already hooked/unhooked, but never watched the actual process. I can understand now, how a newer Andersen owner could drop on his bed, but a get out and look should solve that.
I know you know, that I was not baiting a trap, to cause any retaliation. We are mostly all friends, so all is good!
Jerry
|
MFL
Midwest
Senior Member
Joined: 11/28/2012
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
Cptnvideo wrote:Exactly what I said. He obviously had one of those "certain" hitches in which a visual test wasn't enough.
Edit: OR he didn't even do a visual check.
In the pic above, the owner did do a pull test, but not the visual check. In this case, it was a B&W hitch, but as I mentioned above, pull tests vary, and this fellow did not do a GOOD PULL TEST.
A visual check may have saved him from this damage?
Jerry
|
Cummins12V98
on the road
Senior Member
Joined: 06/03/2012
View Profile
Offline
|
ford truck guy wrote:I started driving BIG TRUCKS back in the early 1980's.. It was POUNDED in my head to ALWAYS do a pull test when hooking up a new trailer.... Never dropped a trailer in all those years..
Fast forward, I am still in the habit of doing my pull test EVEN AFTER I visually verify my jaws are locked around the king pin.
Is it wrong of me?? who cares, I will continue to do it that way
Nothing WRONG at all!!! Just may loose a peg or two in the "B&W HeavyWeightFanBoy Club" ![[emoticon]](https://forums.motorhome.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"
"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600
2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable
2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD
|
|
|
|
