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ferndaleflyer

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Posted: 08/21/20 06:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Spent 2 weeks out in our DP and noticed the last couple of days refrigerator didn't seem cool enough. It has sat a week now hooked up to shore power and last night it was -10 in the freezer and 60 in the refrigerator. It is 3 years old. Electric heater and burner are fine and no codes on the unit. The upper part of the coils weren't hot and the fins in the frig were at room temp. I put a dorm refrigerator in there as we are rolling out today. Any suggestions? Come in Doug!!!

dougrainer

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Posted: 08/21/20 06:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes, the rear cooling fans are not operating. Doug

ferndaleflyer

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Posted: 08/21/20 09:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks Doug---I'll get into that when I get back in here Monday. Can I see and hear them from the top???

hotjag1

Lake Chelan, Wa/Lake Havasu, Az.

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Posted: 08/21/20 12:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Doug knows a lot more than me, but I would expect the coils to be hot if the fans aren't working. OP, I can hear our refer fans when they cycle on.

* This post was edited 08/21/20 12:47pm by hotjag1 *


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Executive

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Posted: 08/21/20 12:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ferndaleflyer wrote:

Thanks Doug---I'll get into that when I get back in here Monday. Can I see and hear them from the top???


Nope and nope. Unfortunately, IIRC the fans are not accessible from the back without pulling the fridge. You might be able to add some extra ones up top, I did, but that will be a temp fix only....Dennis


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dougrainer

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Posted: 08/21/20 03:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Executive wrote:

ferndaleflyer wrote:

Thanks Doug---I'll get into that when I get back in here Monday. Can I see and hear them from the top???


Nope and nope. Unfortunately, IIRC the fans are not accessible from the back without pulling the fridge. You might be able to add some extra ones up top, I did, but that will be a temp fix only....Dennis


If you can get a small 120 volt fan and install it at the rear bottom access blowing UP, that will get you until you fix or replace the 2 fans. Now, you have to pull the refer to replace the fans and/or the fan tstat. If you pull the refer, you replace BOTH Fans AND the Fan tstat which is mounted on the upper condenser fins. Even if the Fans are good and the tstat is bad, replace all 3. Doug

https://www.amazon.com/Norcold-618093-DC-Fan-Thermostat/dp/B004RCX95U

https://www.dyersonline.com/norcold-repl........22KCt6wIVL_LjBx2SKQbkEAQYAiABEgJD7fD_BwE

tropical36

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Posted: 08/22/20 08:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It's always been a battle for keeping a NEVERCOLD fridge temp. under 40F, with the best of them, from the git go.
I can't imagine pulling the fridge for doing any kind of repair, without just doing an RC refrigeration conversion, while you're at it.
Choice of a compressor type or staying with the RV style is available, as well.
That's the only way, it's ever going to be right for proper cooling.
Once the refrigerant cell fails and it will eventually, you're done anyway and not to mention the possible fire safety concerns, that come with it.


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dougrainer

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Posted: 08/22/20 11:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

tropical36 wrote:

It's always been a battle for keeping a NEVERCOLD fridge temp. under 40F, with the best of them, from the git go.
I can't imagine pulling the fridge for doing any kind of repair, without just doing an RC refrigeration conversion, while you're at it.
Choice of a compressor type or staying with the RV style is available, as well.
That's the only way, it's ever going to be right for proper cooling.
Once the refrigerant cell fails and it will eventually, you're done anyway and not to mention the possible fire safety concerns, that come with it.


It is not hard to get a Norcold down to 32 degrees and keep it there. MOST cooling problems are caused by BAD INSTALLATION by the Coach builder. AS to pulling the refer. From start to finish it takes me about 1 hour to partially pull and replace BOTH fans and the Fan tstat. I also run a 2 wire jumper from the sides of the fan tstat down behind by the rear control board to manually make the fans run by bypassing the fan tstst. This is for testing. Now, the Norcold Flat rate is 3.2 hours to do what I just detailed except for the 2 wire jumper. If you would follow some of the 1200/1210 threads you would see, once the RV'er gets the Rear of the Norcold baffled and installed correctly, the cooling is just fine. Doug

Ivylog

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Posted: 08/22/20 12:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A platform almost as high as the bottom of the refrigerator makes it easy to slide it out...3 screws top/bottom hold it in and maybe 1 at the back into the floor. Start by prying the metal bottom (at the back) away from the wall. Once out a couple of inches you can finish from inside.


This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.

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ferndaleflyer

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Posted: 08/24/20 09:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OK, back home now and its raining. I had a small 12 volt fan in the garage with an on/off switch and jerry rigged it into the bottom at the back blowing up before we left. It got the freezer below zero and the refrig was 38. Guess that tells me something. When checking it sometimes the cooling coils were cool and other times to hot to touch. There was nothing in the frig at all. What does that tell me?

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