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Hard side 5th wheel leak

83trekker
Explorer
Explorer
My 99 Travelaire 5th wheel has split a part on the back left side of the trailer.



As you see with the pictureS BELOW , where should water drain? Should it even be going under the plastic molding that cover the screws right on the back edge of the trailer where the side and back meet?

What about at the top of the trailer should the water only drain off the metal horizontal drip rail straight to the ground or meant to run under that plastic cover for the screws?
8 REPLIES 8

83trekker
Explorer
Explorer
GASMAN6674 wrote:
I don't see any gutter extensions. you might want to replace or add them. They are easily removed by trees.


Yes trees have removed them many of times, i guess even if i put them on for the long park for winter would help

GASMAN6674
Explorer
Explorer
I don't see any gutter extensions. you might want to replace or add them. They are easily removed by trees.
Jim & Debbie England
Do you have Gas? Propane Exceptional Energy
2015 F350 CCLB 6.2L/4:30 Vermilion Red
2020 Cougar 364BHLGone but not forgotten 2012 Ridgeline 34RLT fifth wheel/2012 V27FK V-Cross TT

83trekker
Explorer
Explorer
joelc wrote:
Be sure to find out where the leak is coming from. Seal it then put eternabond tape over it. Then seal the edges of the eternabond.


I hope can find where it is!!

And yes i have a 3/4 roll of eternabond. I was going to put the tape down the fill the metal trim piece with non self leveling deco(what ever its called) screw the trim on and the caulk should go over the edge of eternabond and squeeze out the sides of the metal trim and i will then make it smooth along the metal trim edge to seal the sides of it.

joelc
Explorer III
Explorer III
Be sure to find out where the leak is coming from. Seal it then put eternabond tape over it. Then seal the edges of the eternabond.

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
83trekker wrote:
jdc1 wrote:
Under the "bulbed" rubber there are screws to remove the transition piece where the old caulk needs to be replaced. It takes time and patience to do it. Remove the rubber covering the screws. Remove the screws. Use a dull putty knife to pry the metal off. Use the putty knife to remove as much old caulk as possible. Apply new Dicor non-leveling caulk. Replace the metal piece/screws/ rubber "bulb. You may even want to order new rubber. It gets pretty stiff over the years. Hopefully you have minimal damage to the wood inside the walls.


Thanks , should water be allowed to drain under that rubber piece all the way down the trailer and come out the bottom? Damage aint that bad, i fixed the other side same thing happened, but it was so long ago i can't remember what i did with it lol my memory is going.


Had a friend with a water leak similar on an old Montana Fifth wheel, and it eventually laminated the outer gelcoat, and caused damage in the cupboard area inside to where the cupboard doors would not close properly . Might want to get it sealed up, and there is always the possibility of mold also.

83trekker
Explorer
Explorer
jdc1 wrote:
Under the "bulbed" rubber there are screws to remove the transition piece where the old caulk needs to be replaced. It takes time and patience to do it. Remove the rubber covering the screws. Remove the screws. Use a dull putty knife to pry the metal off. Use the putty knife to remove as much old caulk as possible. Apply new Dicor non-leveling caulk. Replace the metal piece/screws/ rubber "bulb. You may even want to order new rubber. It gets pretty stiff over the years. Hopefully you have minimal damage to the wood inside the walls.


Thanks , should water be allowed to drain under that rubber piece all the way down the trailer and come out the bottom? Damage aint that bad, i fixed the other side same thing happened, but it was so long ago i can't remember what i did with it lol my memory is going.

jdc1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Under the "bulbed" rubber there are screws to remove the transition piece where the old caulk needs to be replaced. It takes time and patience to do it. Remove the rubber covering the screws. Remove the screws. Use a dull putty knife to pry the metal off. Use the putty knife to remove as much old caulk as possible. Apply new Dicor non-leveling caulk. Replace the metal piece/screws/ rubber "bulb. You may even want to order new rubber. It gets pretty stiff over the years. Hopefully you have minimal damage to the wood inside the walls.

83trekker
Explorer
Explorer