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 > Level on sloped campsites. How? Unique to 5er's

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Veebyes

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Posted: 08/17/19 05:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lifting the front is a whole lot easier than lowering it to get level. Put the extensions out as far as possible & lift away till level or you run out of leg.

Lowering you need to estimate how much you need to lower once off the truck by running the leg out without much extension yet still have enough to get off the truck.

The longer the 5er the more difficult this game is but you learn with experience.


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JKJavelin

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Posted: 08/17/19 06:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I guess that's the way it is with those drop-frame rigs. I did notice that the front ends of them look mighty low and was wondering if that would cause any issues like dragging on driveway approaches with low clearances.
JK


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Posted: 08/17/19 06:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

For a site that slopes down at back do you carry ramps to lift the back?

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Posted: 08/18/19 05:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I like the jack stand idea,I also agree to set them on a piece of wood to keep from sinking.


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Posted: 08/18/19 07:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I always put 2 6x6 blocks under the legs then lower the extenders some. I try not to have a lot of extenders out, I feel it allows more shake in camper. Keeping in mind do I need to to raise or lower the nose when I am finally in hooked. This has worked for me everywhere I have been, inclisites much worse than that.

Also, if something goes wrong with the motor it's a lot less cranking by hand to get them up.

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Posted: 08/18/19 08:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The more I think about this the more I realize it is the short stroke of the jack that is the issue and not their mounting location. If you have 18” under the jack foot when fully retracted or 6” once you block that space with blocks or the leg extension hole you then have the stroke length of the jack. If it only extends say 13” then it only extends that. The issue is more the long trailer needing that much more jacking to level.
If it were me I would first try blocking up the rear of the truck before unhitching before I tried the jack stand method. Jack stands will work but it is an added step and if on a slope there is some instability pushing downhill on these jackstands as you transition. I think four pieces of 2X8 would work in lots of situation. Two 3’ and two 2’. Back onto the 3’ers and then set the 2’ers on and back up again. For rehitching I would throw some quick marks on the ground, with a marker or spray paint to show exactly where I need these blocks. Just my thoughts, have Had to do height adjusting hooking grain trailers in the field in combine season and we always either blocked or dug in the truck tires.
Of course a shovel and digging the trailer tires down a inch or two would have a greater effect, and samplers, but you would have to watch clearance on the rear and most places won’t allow this.

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Posted: 08/18/19 10:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Kevinwa wrote:

The more I think about this the more I realize it is the short stroke of the jack that is the issue and not their mounting location. If you have 18” under the jack foot when fully retracted or 6” once you block that space with blocks or the leg extension hole you then have the stroke length of the jack. If it only extends say 13” then it only extends that. The issue is more the long trailer needing that much more jacking to level.
If it were me I would first try blocking up the rear of the truck before unhitching before I tried the jack stand method. Jack stands will work but it is an added step and if on a slope there is some instability pushing downhill on these jackstands as you transition. I think four pieces of 2X8 would work in lots of situation. Two 3’ and two 2’. Back onto the 3’ers and then set the 2’ers on and back up again. For rehitching I would throw some quick marks on the ground, with a marker or spray paint to show exactly where I need these blocks. Just my thoughts, have Had to do height adjusting hooking grain trailers in the field in combine season and we always either blocked or dug in the truck tires.
Of course a shovel and digging the trailer tires down a inch or two would have a greater effect, and samplers, but you would have to watch clearance on the rear and most places won’t allow this.


I have also had to dig tire holes to get under trailer that did not have a big enough footprint. But I see a issue with lifting the truck axle; If lifted enough to only need the short stroke of jacks to level, where would the back corners of the bed be? And if the CG frowns on digging holes, (and they should) what will they think of paint lines on the drive? Stands, OTOH, note what your jacks where extended and blocked. Set stands, lower trailer to change blocks/extension, and lift trailer to level. Now the stands, back under the trailer will not be in the way, no need to move, ready for hook up.

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Posted: 08/18/19 05:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JKJavelin wrote:

I guess that's the way it is with those drop-frame rigs. I did notice that the front ends of them look mighty low and was wondering if that would cause any issues like dragging on driveway approaches with low clearances.
JK


I did wonder about that when we first one. But what I have found out is I will hit the corners of the truck bed on the overhang before the feet drag. And I do love the extra room in the front storage.


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DutchmenSport

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Posted: 08/18/19 07:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Followup:

I followed Lantley's (post above) and purchased the jacks from Harbor Freight. I read the reviews on-line and the only thing negative about them was the weight and the price. After seeing them in the store, I had no problem with either weight or price. I purchased them... $99.99 with tax, $106.??

[image]

The first thing I did once home was to determine just exactly how much of an angle can my 5er take. So on flat ground, I manually raised the jacks until the completely stopped. Actually, they raised about 26 inches. I don't know why I couldn't get them to extend farther at the campground.

[image]

So now I know the limitations of the front landing gear. I even used black marker on the legs to indicate where level was in my drive way and marked the max extension. I'll probably go back and try to mark every 2 inches of extension, so I won't hyper extend again.

With that, (for practice purposes), I lowered the front again and this time rested the frame on the jacks. Doing this, it allows a lot more space or ground clearance from the ground to the bottom of the jack foot, allowing for quite a stack of lumber now, or the ability to extend the inserts several more inches.

On an incline, this will take care of my problem. Also, I have a nice cozy place to haul the new jack stands. They are now part of my permanent arsonal.

[image]

[image]

[image]

Once again, thanks everyone for your input. Everything is much appreciated. In about 3 weeks we'll be on a very unlevel site (front to back), so that will probably be the first real test of this endeavor.

* This post was edited 08/18/19 07:08pm by DutchmenSport *

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Posted: 08/19/19 05:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Do they take up too much room? We have a few (bought used) that don't have a pin thru the extentsion, so it will slide right out. This will let the bases nest. In use, it might be possable to extend it past what is safe, but we are smart enough not to do that. Our bigest issue in the years we have had them, is pick them up by the top, clang.
Compare the base of jack to base of stand. And by the shape, if it sinks, the force will be to spread the feet. A hardwood, or maybe better plywood base would be best. Heavy gauge steel would work as well, (on my tool truck, to jack up loaded trucks, I carried sections of truck frame) and thinner might fit where wood wouldn't fit. But even a then piece would help. Cake pan?

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