Trailer Life Magazine Open Roads Forum: Level on sloped campsites. How? Unique to 5er's
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Fifth-Wheels

Open Roads Forum  >  Fifth-Wheels

 > Level on sloped campsites. How? Unique to 5er's

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 5  
Prev  |  Next
Sponsored By:
CarnationSailor

Carnation,WA

Senior Member

Joined: 12/21/2009

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 08/17/19 10:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DutchmenSport wrote:

CarnationSailor wrote:

If there were no restrictions, what would be the distance the jack travels from fully retracted to fully extended (ignoring the extendible section)?


Just measured, since they are completely extended right now ... 13.5 inches. That the length they extract. The inserts can add another 8 or 9 inches in total length, but not sure, I've never had the trailer high enough to completely slip them out of the sleeve. So, really don't know how long they are.


My Level-Up jacks can extend at least 24 inches - probably more although I would get nervous if I ever had to have them extended that far. (They are a single solid piston rather than having a manual extension.)

I think the heart of your problem is that your jacks can extend only 13.5 inches. It doesn't matter how far you extend them or how tall the blocks are that you put under them. You are not going to raise the front of the trailer more than 13.5 inches after backing onto the site. (Unless you employ the solution that involves support under the frame which seems like it should work.)

* This post was edited 08/17/19 10:20am by CarnationSailor *


2015 Crossroads Rushmore Springfield
2015 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Duramax


DutchmenSport

Indiana

Senior Member

Joined: 10/10/2006

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 08/17/19 10:15am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RobWNY... If you can look at the photo carefully, I put the block under the front foot and then dropped the extension as far as it would go. Total distance from the bottom of the foot to the ground was 9 inches on the passenger side and 11.5 on the drivers side. (The front is also sloped side to side, but tires are almost level side to side.)

The block under the jack is about 4 inches deep, allowing the foot extension to drop about 5 inches on one side and 8 inches on the other. When extending the jacks all the way up, the jack ran out of length and then errored out my self-leveling system. Nose is still angled down, not completely level and no more length left to the jacks to raise it... probably another inch to get it completely level.

I needed more length on the extensions, but couldn't extend any farther, they were down as far as they could go. I've noticed other 5ers that have the older style jacks that set up much higher. Clearance from the bottom of the foot to the ground looks like they could be as high as 18 inches. Yes, when you have that much clearance, you can stack a lot of lumber under them, and extend the extensions a good foot and raise the front to the sky. But when the clearance is only about 6 inches on level ground, that doesn't leave much room to add an addition foot of length to raise it higher.

Thus the need to rest the camper on a support once it's lifted a foot or two. Once on the support, retract the front landing gear jacks and put more lumber under them, OR drop the extensions down farther. Then extend again until level. That's what I'm trying to accomplish here.

So, as stated above, blocks under the frame, in my head anyway, sounds like the solution, which will support the trailer long enough to get length on the front landing gear. Then the front can be raised higher until level. (and hope the rear end is not dragging in the dirt!

cougar28

Lowell,AR USA

Senior Member

Joined: 01/03/2003

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/17/19 10:15am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lantley wrote:

cougar28 wrote:

I see no reason that you would put the power supply on that side.That just goes to show they didn't have a clue about building campsites.


If you were paying attention you would realize that Dutch's rig has doors on both sides of the RV! Therefore the pedestal is configured properly, it's the additional door that creates the illusion that something is weird


LOL. Now that you mention that. Of course it on the correct side the main door is on the other side. Funny how the mind see's the door and automatically thinks the front.


2002 F-250 SD CC 7.3PSD Auto. XLT Short Bed 4X4 Off-Rd.Pkg.Highland Green,Westin Sportsman Grille Guard (Black) RBW Li'l Rocker Slider ,Prodigy Control Towing Jayco Eagle HT 30.5 MLOK,Handy 5er tailgate

Allworth

Orlando, FL

Senior Member

Joined: 10/10/2006

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 08/17/19 11:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My main section (on Atwood jacks) will extend at least twice that far. How did you determine that that is maximum extension??

I have had one of my jacks out of the trailer and torn down to replace the thrust bearing and the lead screw was almost 30 inches long, which means that I have about 28 inches of travel.


Formerly posting as "littleblackdog"
Martha, Allen, & Blackjack
2006 Chevy 3500 D/A LB SRW, RVND 7710
2008 Titanium 30E35SA; EZ-Lube axles; wet bolts; spring hanger gussetts; BFG Commercial TAs
"Real Jeeps have round headlights"

JRscooby

Indepmo

Senior Member

Joined: 06/10/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/17/19 12:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lantley wrote:

Dutch you need a set of these


These will support the weight of the trailer while you place your blocking and extend the legs.
I used these jack to support my trailer when one of mt jack legs failed. They are very stable.
If you are running into this issue frequently, they are a good tool to have in your arsenal. They will be more stable and more convenient vs. carrying a lumber yard of blocks.


Would work. And I think you can knock a pin out, so the top can lift out, so the bases can nest to store. But might be a good idea to put board under the stand to keep it from sinking unless on concrete.

Lantley

Ellicott City, Maryland

Senior Member

Joined: 08/23/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/17/19 12:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I imagine the jack stands will resolve his issue. I will have to pay more attention to the newer 5'ers. Do all of the new 5'ers have there front jacks that low to the ground?
I think that is a questionable design.
The issue is not unique to 5'ers or at least not unique to older models. Dutch's Montana is basically brand new . I don't know if the issue is unique to his model only or if it's a Montana thing? Either way it's an issue to beware of and could be a deal breaker if I were buying a new unit?
Maybe there is a reason or benefit to the jacks extending so low beneath his rig? Whatever the reason leveling on sloping slights has become a problematic unintended consequence of the low hanging front jacks.


2019 Duramax w/hips,2012 Open Range,Titan Disc Brake
H-head TPMS,BD3,RV safepower,17" Blackstone
Ox Bedsaver,RV760 w/BC20,Glow Steps
BakFlip,RVLock,5500 Onan LP,Prog.50A surge,Hughes autoformer
Porta Bote 8.0 Nissan,Sailun S637
Correct Trax,Splendide


DutchmenSport

Indiana

Senior Member

Joined: 10/10/2006

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 08/17/19 12:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lantley wrote:

Dutch you need a set of these
Harbor freight 12 ton jacks


[image]

These will support the weight of the trailer while you place your blocking and extend the legs.
I used these jack to support my trailer when one of mt jack legs failed. They are very stable.
If you are running into this issue frequently, they are a good tool to have in your arsenal. They will be more stable and more convenient vs. carrying a lumber yard of blocks.


I like, perfect, and yes, have a local Harbor Freight close. Thanks, yes, add to the arsenal.

Lantley

Ellicott City, Maryland

Senior Member

Joined: 08/23/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/17/19 01:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

For the record Dutch they do have a smaller size jack stand that could possibly work. It's a little cheaper, smaller and lighter which would make it easier to transport
I preferred the larger 12 ton model because they are more stable and can carry the load of your 5'er effortlessly. The added stability trumped all other factors for me. The 12 ton model is a bit heavier but not too bad. The extra weight translates into stability.
Hope they resolve your issue

DutchmenSport

Indiana

Senior Member

Joined: 10/10/2006

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 08/17/19 02:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks Lantley. When we get back home next week I'll run over to my Harbor Freight and take a look at them. Actually, I don't mind the heavier model (or the cost), if it can support the entire weight of the trailer front solidly. I doubt I'd ever have to extend them the full length. Being able to manipulate and eventually get the landing gear feet with just a full foot of clearance would make all the difference in the world. The trailer would be on them for just a matter of seconds, long enough to either extend the legs or stack more lumber under the feet. More than likely, extend the legs. Once I get the jacks I can experiment in my own driveway, even though it's flat it will give me a good feel and confidence in the equipment.

We camp almost always at State Parks, Indiana, Kentucky, Tennessee, Southern Ohio, Virginia, West Virginia, South and North Carolina. And these states have hills and mountains and campgrounds are not built on flat ground. Even though the DNR web sites give a description of the campsite, indicating shade or sun, slope or flat, water or not, or how far water is from the site, etc, they don't give you the angle of degree for the slope. And photos make every campsite look flat. You can't really see the slope. So when you reserve a campsite, you just never know what you are really getting until you get there. We've had our share of surprises for sure. And we've overcome obstacle unimaginable and parked successfully. Three times in the last 11 months, it's time to figure out a fix.

Thanks again.

jaycocamprs

Ringgold Georgia

Senior Member

Joined: 03/28/2004

View Profile





Offline
Posted: 08/17/19 02:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DutchmenSport wrote:

RobWNY... If you can look at the photo carefully, I put the block under the front foot and then dropped the extension as far as it would go. Total distance from the bottom of the foot to the ground was 9 inches on the passenger side and 11.5 on the drivers side. (The front is also sloped side to side, but tires are almost level side to side.)

The block under the jack is about 4 inches deep, allowing the foot extension to drop about 5 inches on one side and 8 inches on the other. When extending the jacks all the way up, the jack ran out of length and then errored out my self-leveling system. Nose is still angled down, not completely level and no more length left to the jacks to raise it... probably another inch to get it completely level.

I needed more length on the extensions, but couldn't extend any farther, they were down as far as they could go. I've noticed other 5ers that have the older style jacks that set up much higher. Clearance from the bottom of the foot to the ground looks like they could be as high as 18 inches. Yes, when you have that much clearance, you can stack a lot of lumber under them, and extend the extensions a good foot and raise the front to the sky. But when the clearance is only about 6 inches on level ground, that doesn't leave much room to add an addition foot of length to raise it higher.

Thus the need to rest the camper on a support once it's lifted a foot or two. Once on the support, retract the front landing gear jacks and put more lumber under them, OR drop the extensions down farther. Then extend again until level. That's what I'm trying to accomplish here.

So, as stated above, blocks under the frame, in my head anyway, sounds like the solution, which will support the trailer long enough to get length on the front landing gear. Then the front can be raised higher until level. (and hope the rear end is not dragging in the dirt!

You would need to raise the nose up 4-5". Then place a block on both sides of the kingpin on top of the hitch. Retract the legs and drop the extensions down farther, or add more blocking. You also have to do this double jack when leaving.


2018 Silverado 3500 DRW
2011 Montana Mountaineer 285RLD


Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 5  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Fifth-Wheels

 > Level on sloped campsites. How? Unique to 5er's
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Fifth-Wheels


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2019 CWI, Inc. © 2019 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS