460-7.5 Coolant Hose Back of Engine Question

[BFL13]

Trying to identify two hoses in the Class C where both are holed but only one leaks. (Had to stop from overheating, and eventually found the leak-- got towed to destination, now to fix it and get home -one hour drive)

Sorry-no pictures till after I get it home with temporary fixes.

Doghouse removed, on the passenger side back of engine above transmission and going back out of sight under the floor, there are two long rubber hoses coming from higher on the right front side. Both same size about 1 inch outside dia. with inside diameter 5/8 and take a copper 1/2 inch pipe that can be clamped as a repair.

At floor level, these two hoses are just above the two hoses that go to the catalytic converter (removed last winter).

One was leaking coolant from a hole burnt out where the two hoses were on something hot just back out of sight under the floor, perhaps the exhaust, but maybe where I had a problem a few months ago with another pair of pipes close by that went to the catalytic converter. That got fixed, but it seems these two other hoses were damaged then or since.

There is some slack in the two hoses so you can pull them up enough to do the repair.

I cut away the damaged part of the leaking hose and did a repair with copper pipe and clamps so that should get us home,(with added coolant top-up) but what about that second hose right beside it with a hole in it that is not leaking?

Obviously I can do a similar repair of that hose, but do I need to? What does it do?

I also have to figure out a way to keep these two hoses clear of whatever they were lying on that got them so hot and burnt holes in them.

Thanks.

[BFL13]

PT, all the Saskabush hobos are heading out to BC for the winter, so you will be the only one left! If you do join the new Class C Hobo Forum, you get to keep your rv.net seniority and all the reward points you get for that, so it's not all bad. 🙂

Actually those guys would have some useful tech tips. Like how Cubans can keep their 50s cars going.

[pianotuna]

BFL13,

I resemble that remark........but 2005.

BFL13 wrote:
Just have to ignore the funny looks you get when people think you are one of those Class C hobos we have around here. There are more and more of them. They keep moving from library parking lot to grocery store parking lot, to wherever they can stay for a while till told to move on.

[BFL13]

Yes, same idea as the Atwood one we have except the Atwood has ducts to registers. One in bedroom and one close by in bathroom at the back, unit must be under the bed. That second hose did have coolant water in it (as seen when I cut the badly weakened piece out and did a copper pipe repair). All fixed now.

All part of the fun having a 1991 rig. Just have to ignore the funny looks you get when people think you are one of those Class C hobos we have around here. There are more and more of them. They keep moving from library parking lot to grocery store parking lot, to wherever they can stay for a while till told to move on.

RV.Net will need a new Forum for those folks 🙂 Post tips on how to avoid by-law officers and where you can plug in at night without getting caught by property owners. 😞

[jamesham]

I had an Alamo brand heat/cool unit under the rear seat of a 76 Chevy van. It had two smaller refrigerant lines going to it that were branched off the front dash air. It also had two larger rubber hoses branched off the back of the engine coolant lines just before they went to the under dash heater. It helped the rear seat passengers, especially in summer with a little more AC in the back. There also were 4 electric wires to carry 12 volts to the fans in the unit. Perhaps that is what you have? Mine did not have any remote air outlet registers...just a grill on the front that produced hot or cold air depending on the switch position in front on the dash. I do not think it was factory from Chevy, but installed by the previous owner.

[BFL13]

I tried to add some to that post but got attacked by that robot monster, so I will try to post it here:

My 1991 Ford incomplete vehicle manual says for any auxiliary heater, "hose routings---Do not route heater or a/c hoses directly over or near the exhaust system"

(It also says to limit any concentric hose shields to 12 inches and to minimize their use)

The truck "driver's manual" refers to an auxiliary rear heater, but this is not what I have AFAIK. The Oakland RV brochure says an "Auxiliary Rear Heater" is an option

[BFL13]

The photo shows on mine ok.

I can't find a link, but it is called, "AtwoodAIR Auxiliary Rear Heat/Cool System Floor Mount. The installation pamphlet is dated Sep 86. It is supposed to branch off from the vehicle's heater. Should be a water valve on the inlet hose, which can be "cable operated" or the "optional electric control water valve". I have not poked around the RV to find all this yet.

The manual's diagrams show it mounted under a rear couch in a big van or Class C. It has a drain hose through the floor. I might be able to find that crawling under the RV. I do have two hot air registers for it that work. The drawing shows it could have four.

The air conditioner that was on the roof was removed long before we got this ( a Fantstic Fan there now), so I suppose the "Cool" part of this Heat/Cool is gone too.

[jamesham]

No picture on this end either. Glad you made it home OK. I will be a lot easier to fix in your own driveway. Did a quick Google search and the only Atwood product listed that has an engine heat exhanger is a 6 or 10 gallon hot water heater. This product location would be obvious on the exterior because of the large door with vents. I did not find anything online that is an interior heater. So I cannot offer any direct advice on what you have. I did have both units many years ago on an old Class C, so I know both water heaters and interior heaters existed in the 80s.
We have added the Reflectix insulation INSIDE the doghouse, and it still warms the driver's foot. We sometimes pile extra carpet pieces on the side on really hot days with a really long drive. Our Chevy Class C is cooler and less noise than our previous Ford and Dodge chassis motorhomes.
jh

[BFL13]

Got home ok, my repair was successful. The second hose did not have a hole in it after all, but I will fix the bad looking spot in it before we head out again.

Apparently this MH has Atwood rear heat set up that has the two hoses going back to it. I do not have the cooling part of that, just the heater part.

Here is a photo of it all with the two hoses on the right that go under the floor heading to the back somewhere. ( I have not found the heater core for that yet) The metal hose to the left of the repaired rubber hose it was lying on gets really hot. I will arrange to keep them apart now!

Never mind the two grungy air hoses coming down on the right close to the two heater hoses. Those air hoses went to the catalytic converter and got grungy from a previous overheating episode involving them. It is possible that also got to these heater hoses and it has taken months since for one to fail, don't know. Those air hoses are not connected anymore, cat gone.

Anyway, "if you can't take a joke, you shouldn't have joined" and all that. 😞

BTW, I could not drive with the doghouse off as planned. My right foot got too hot!

[BFL13]

Only problem with Good Sam has been they don't have a clue about where anything is in BC, so it costs a bunch of cell phone time explaining where Vancouver Island is, and that it is not in Vancouver (The one north of Seattle, not the other one).

Once you get them zeroed in on the Island, it still takes time to get them to see where you are, so they can phone one of their tame tow truck guys. 🙂

The tow is free and that part goes well, but poor old Good Sam could do with some geography lessons for their phone people. That would save a bunch of cell phone costs. Plus the worry that you will run out of your cell phone allowance before they figure out where you are! Kind of a nail-biter there. 🙂

[jamesham]

I agree, blocking/cutting the hoses off or replacing both is much easier NOT on a hot engine on the side of the road.

I am glad to hear you had good luck with GS Road Service. I use CoachNet and have needed them three times in 5 years. They were great to deal with each time. I have some friends with motorhomes that have not been happy with the response from Sam when they needed help. Glad to hear yours was a positive experience. Hope for no bad events on the way home.

[BFL13]

The RV is at a friend's place where we were going when it happened. Good Sam tow. Gottaluv Good Sam! (Unless they kick me out for being a nuisance)

The one hose is already "fixed" so water should come out the other soon after starting while still there. I will fix that hose before leaving, and I have water if it still leaks. I can watch for a while to see if any leaks before heading home.

When I first called Good Sam, I had not found the leak, nothing showing up front, but while waiting for the tow truck in a Rest Area we pulled into, I took the doghouse off and there it was.

It was a DIY level repair so I changed the tow job from going back home to going ahead to the destination so we could still do the dog event. I don't get another free tow from there to home, so a risk taken, but low risk (we will see how that works out!)

[pianotuna]

Hi BFL13,

Fix them both. Doing such a repair on a hot engine on the edge of the road may not be a wise choice.

Have a safe trip home.

[BFL13]

I will be back to the RV on Monday to finish the repair and drive it home. At least now I know (I hope!) what needs doing. Fix both hoses. I will leave the doghouse off for the trip home so I can see if my fixes are holding.

If I have time, I could maybe try it with the one hose fixed that was leaking and see if water now does come out the other.

ISTR one of the pamphlets was about a rear heater or it might have been in the "incomplete truck" manual so there might be some plumbing info there.

Some time ago I did try that under dash switch for the rear heat, engine running, and did get hot air from the two little registers back in the RV part. That just helps keep the RV part warm while you are driving. Normally the furnace would be off then.

I will post a follow-up.

[jamesham]

Your situation kind of reminds me of my Dad's old cars of the 50's before air conditioning or motorhomes. The coolant circulated thru the under dash heater and produced some heat even in summer with the fan off and vents closed. The DIY solution then was an inline water valve (sometimes controlled by an extended push wire) that stopped ALL coolant from entering the car interior.

When I had a similar heat situation with my motorhome many years later, the same inline water valves were STILL available at auto parts houses. I replaced the lousy factory installed rubber hose with copper pipe covered in foam home plumbing insulation and screwed with plastic hangers to the bottom of the RV floor. I did a lot of work before I decided the whole idea was not needed and eventually replaced the old water heater with a new gas/electric model with direct spark ignition; no pilot light. If you have a switch to turn a fan on/off, it may be nice to have extra heat in winter.
jim