WD Hitch Measurements - Need help with fine tuning

[CSCustomCars]

Hello all,

I spent a very rough afternoon yesterday setting up my WD hitch. I have some physical limitations from my life being a mechanic, but I managed to get it all together. What a pain in the butt.

I have some questions and I need help from the experts.

My TT is a 2005 Keystone Zeppelin Z261, TW 600lbs, total GVWR 6000lbs. My truck is a 2017 Ram 1500 4x4 Hemi reg cab, short bed. I have about 300lbs payload against the cab in the bed forward of the rear axles. My hitch is a Eaz-lift with friction sway control separate from WD hitch. 1000lb TW. I bought the 1000lb tongue weight because I had thought I would have more weight in the bed. It looks like I’ll be closer to 800 lbs total TW with the bed fully loaded and me in the truck. I will be full-timing so I will be driving a lot of miles.

Unhitched measurements:

Front wheel arch: 36”
Rear wheel arch 37.5”
Trailer measurements taken at level front to rear
Front TT at Frame n front of saddle 19.5”
Rear bumper height 18”

After fighting with the **** thing for 4 hours, and readjusting a couple times after realizing I “mathed” wrong. I’m hoping I got it right, or at least as close as possible.

Anyway, my hitch ball is at the lowest mounting point on the drop mount that came with my hitch, and the head is angled slightly rearward towards TT. I have 6 links between the bars and the saddle when hitched. The bars are parallel when hitched.

Measurements when hitched (without moving, so, TT didn’t move, truck hasn’t moved)

Front wheel arch 36”
Rear wheel arch 36.5”
Front TT at frame in front of saddle 20.5”
Rear bumper height 18”

Overall the rear of my truck squated 1”, the front frame TT height weight up aprox 1”, but the front and rear measurements stayed the same. The TT is ever so slightly nose high on the leveler.

This is as close as I could manage yesterday. Are these measurements and information abut my set-up correct? Do I need to get a lower drop bar (I might have one lying around somewhere)?

And finally, my WD hitch came partially assembled. The only bolts I need to know torque specs for are the ones that attached the hitch head to the drop bar. I read somewhere online 250lbs (which sounds awful high) for the bottom bolt, 50lbs for top adjustable. The bottom bolt on mine has a lock washer. I tightened that bolt hard, put my body weight into it (all 280lbs of me). The lock washer is as compressed as it can be. However, if I know exact specs (that weren’t provided in my instructions) I can use my torque wrench to be exact.

[Slowmover]

Need to download the CAT Scale App and stop off at one to do the adjustments.

Return the Steer Axle to same weight as solo truck (drop trailer and do a pass for that ) after two runs across scale with TT in tow. WD tensioned, and WD slack.

At or very near front axle load restoration will be best performance.

TT needs to be level. Use a level across door opening.


Second is TV tire pressure. Needs to conform to load versus pressure requirements. Not too high, as that degrades ride, handling & braking any more than too low.

Tire choice is big. See threads on “best” half ton truck tires.

Upgrade the TV to at least entry level Koni or Bilstein shock absorbers.

[gmw_photos]

Enjoy your new trailer ! If I were full time, one thing I would do is add a cab high cap on my truck so I would have secure, weathertight storage for extra things. Your new trailer is approx the same size as my trailer, except mine has a slide out.

As it is, I'm only one the road about 6 or 7 months a year, so I get by with throwing my extra stuff in the back seat area of the truck. I travel solo with just my dog, so I removed the back seat from the truck to open that area up for more space.

[CSCustomCars]

After weighing both options of buying another used trailer versus buying a new trailer, i decided to go with new. My reasoning is for simplicity. This zepplelin is too big for the boomdocking spots i want to get into. I want to live where I won’t see another human for 3 days. 26ft (29ft total), though not large in comparison, is just too big for the lifestyle i want to live.

So at the RV show past night, i put a deposit on a 2018 Gulfstream Innsbrook lite 199RK. A really nice, inexpensive, but great quality feeling 19 ft fully enclosed trailer with a max GVWR of 5000lbs, and i am looking forward to picking that up in a couple months. I talked with a couple friends about the idea, weighed options going in either direction, and just decided that i wanted to go new. This will be my home for my the next 5 years at least.

I want to thank everyone here for all the help without judgement. I really appreciate all of you and am very happy here on this forum.

[gmw_photos]

If you are wanting to buy a new trailer, and have the resources to do so, that's terrific.

That said, the trailer you have could be correctly loaded and balanced, correctly hitched to your existing truck, and made to tow very well. The truck might benefit from a couple of simple and inexpensive ( relative ) modifications. All this would be far cheaper than buying a new trailer.

However, to repeat, if a guy wants a new trailer ( or truck, as we sometimes see here on the forum ) then more power to them. As is often said, most problems can be made to disappear if you throw enough money at them.
I like to offer practical solutions to problems that save money where possible. It's true though that not everybody needs to save money. Some have plenty of dollars to spread around.

Good luck with whatever you choose. Safe travels.

[CSCustomCars]

Should update.

Yea, trailer was overloaded. Quite a bit too. I’m a bit embarrassed to be honest. However, i drove at an appropriate speed the rest of the way, kept lots of space between me and everything else, and just drove as carefully as i could.

Made it to my destination, and am now parked for at least a month while i sort through my belongings (I’m full timing) and get rid of more of my ****. the next step is trading for a significantly smaller and lighter trailer. This one isn’t conducive to the lifestyle and the boondocking places i want to be able to get into. Its too big.

I’m going to the Atlanta RV show today to look at pretty shiny things and get a better feel for size.

So smaller trailer, and a lot less stuff is in order.

Thank you everyone for your help during my trial by fire. I’ve learned many lessons and will be adjusting accordingly.

[bikendan]

The OP may be over payload, in addition to the Ram's soft suspension.

[keymastr]

Couple things, First The trailer looks like it is nose down in the pic you posted. You need to measure along the main I-beam in front and rear. The tongue and bumper may not be installed at the same height.

Second, Your Ram has the softest rear suspension of the half ton trucks on the market and the lowest cargo capacity as well so you will need to be very careful how much weight you put in it.

Third, that is a cheap, old school hitch which would be ok if you were not towing close to or over your trucks capacity. Spend $500 on an Equal-izer 4 point hitch with built in sway control. As mentioned in one of the first posts it will be a night and day difference.

Fourth, Get weighed so you can get the tongue weight correct and as mentioned earlier, get the weight off the rear of the trailer.

If you do those things it will tow safely. If you continue with the sway you have you will likely not have a good outcome.

[BarneyS]

I would get all the stuff off the rear of the trailer and put it in the bed of the truck - generator, bikes, all of it. It does not matter if the rear of your truck squats a bit. That is the way it is supposed to be when you put a load in there or hang one on 4 feet behind the axles. Use the WD to restore the weight lost off the front axle. If that raises the rear (which it will a bit) then fine but the rear will take care of itself if the front is correct.

I would also tilt the hitch head rearward a bit and continue to use the 5 links. That is the minimum amount you want to use. More is ok if you get the WD you need. It sounds like you have it very close right now but the only thing that is really needed is to get the weight off the rear of the trailer. That will improve your tongue weight and most likely give you a nice towing trailer.

I never tow above 65mph. That is the speed limit that is on the side of my tires and is also a comfortable speed to tow at.

Get that weight off the rear and when you have the time install the friction sway control. It is not for the small wiggles you feel when a truck passes you - that will happen no matter what hitch or sway control you have - but is for those emergency times when something goes wrong and you really need it like coming down a hill on the expressway, passing a truck on a curve, and need to brake bit to slow down. That is perhaps the most dangerous situation I can think of to induce sway. The sway control may save you rig and perhaps your life in that situation.
Barney

[drsteve]

The amount of stuff in the bed has nothing to do with the functioning of the WD hitch. I believe your issues are related to the nose-up attitude of the TT, and too little tongue weight. Putting the generator in the rear of the TT reduces tongue weight, and will only make it worse.

[CSCustomCars]

Thank you for the suggestions. I have a drop mount with me that is a touch longer than the one that came with the hitch. I was considering checking that one and setting up the hitch head on that one down another inch would should bring the nose of the trailet down.

The generator is 50 pounds. I put it in the rear cause it was the only spot i had left that it would fit. There is also a 20 pound bicycle in the rear and a 10 pound charcoal grill. There is less than 100 pounds rear of the axles. I’m positive I don’t have enough tongue weight so I’m going to also redistribute the load in the trailer before i head off today. Put more heavy bulky stuff in front. Most of the load is spread put through the tt above the axles and forward of the axles, but i think most of the bulky stuff ended up right over the tt axles. Like i said I’m going to move some stuff around today and see if that helps

Please excuse my multiple typos, I’m on my phone. I’m trying to catch them as i go.

[TKW]

I had the same hitch as yours without anti-sway device on my new-to-me TT and towed almost a whole season with it. The sway problem you are having I am quite familiar with. Playing with the chain link adjustment would have little effect on sway. Its main function is to distribute load between the front and rear axles of your TV thus prevent steering loss due to lifting of the front wheels. I eventually sold the hitch on CL and installed an Equal-i-zer WD hitch with built-in sway control. The result is night and day. (My justification for not simply add a friction sway control like yours is to avoid drilling holes on the TT frame. I am mechanically inclined and known to SCREW up anything.)
Your short wheel base TV and TT combo may have something to do with the sway but not as much as the generator you placed at the rear of your TT.
The ideal TW for towing is 12-15% of your TT GVW. Any load placed behind TT axle reduces TW. Once it's below 12% and you will not tow good.
From your posted fender measurement, your TW does not seem heavy enough to lift the front end thus I speculate your TW is low for your truck to start with. My suggestion is to weigh your TV/TT combo on a CAT scale. 1st pass, loaded combo, FA, RA and TT. 2nd pass, same as 1st pass except with WD spring bars relaxed. 3rd pass TV alone. Post your result here and there'll be lots of experienced members chime in to help. You can also search this forum for detail instruction on "How to weigh your rig".
To level your TT, you may want to get a longer shank than your existing one. The stock Eaz-lift one offers very little adjustment. Changing the pitch angle may give you more chain link adjustment but won't level your TT.

[CSCustomCars]

drsteve wrote:
You will feel passing trucks tug at you even with a perfect setup. As long as no sway is induced, it's all good.

Try to get the trailer to set level or slightly nose down.

It sounds like your tongue is light. The WD hitch will not compensate for that.

You are correct that the head angle seems to be too upright.

You shouldn't be pulling faster than 65 anyway, but the trailer should not sway, even if you do.

A trip to the scales may be in order to eliminate the guesswork.

I’m going to lower the head angle before i take off tomorrow morning, and readjust the chains as needed.

A couple large square semi’s passed me at some considerable speed and they always caused a bit of sway. However, the more streamlined semi’s did not induce sway. That car carrier one was nuts. He had to be doing close to 80, and i was around 63 at the time and that was a white nuckle momment.

I have never been too, nor opperated any truck scales. I will need to research how to do it and what the results mean

[drsteve]

You will feel passing trucks tug at you even with a perfect setup. As long as no sway is induced, it's all good.

Try to get the trailer to set level or slightly nose down.

It sounds like your tongue is light. The WD hitch will not compensate for that.

You are correct that the head angle seems to be too upright.

You shouldn't be pulling faster than 65 anyway, but the trailer should not sway, even if you do.

A trip to the scales may be in order to eliminate the guesswork.

[CSCustomCars]

Update. Dropped it to 6, let the trailer down, and the ass end of my truck was sagging, so i put it back up to 5. 4 is scary, 6 is useless.

Alright, so i do have some questions, problems or something. Maybe I’m just not used to how this hitch works.

Every time i get passed by a truck or even a large car/suv, i feel a suction towards that vehicle, then a push away as i exit their wind trail. Anything over 65 is sketc hy (at least for me). It will sway back and forth, pushing me around a bit pver 65. The rear end of my truck is down a bit, and my headlights do point upwards a touch. Nothing terrible. It feels like i need more tongue weight, but i need the butt of my truck to sit up a bit.

I’m at a hotel for the night cause my trailer is still winterized. When i got here, I immediately took everything out of the bed that i added after putting the hitch together and put it in the trailer, some in the basement, but i put the inverter generator in the back of the trailer. The bed now has the same ammount of stuff in it now that it had when i installed the hitch. The rear has raised slightly now without the additional weight.

In that picture i posted above, you can see my truck squating a bit, but the trailer is still very slightly nose high. The trailer is closer to level than my truck was.

Do any of my towing “issues” have anything to do with my short wheelbase truck and a 26ft trailer?

Right now I’m just trying to make it to georgia so i can set up my new home. When i get down there, i may go to a service center and have them fiddle with it to get it right, and maybe have them install the sway control too.

*edit* i just studied that picture i posted, and it sure looks lile i have a bad hitch head angle. I wonder if i rake that hitch head towards the trailer some more,, that would increase the bar tension on the chains, lifting more off the rear and more spread out? Am i thinking that correctly?