total rewire/rebuild of 1979

[Mako_Kupo]

hey guys! I have another post going in another section about removing caulk, and since im tackling multiple things at once and also a 100% novice in 12v wiring, I find myself a little... overhwhelmed. right now in my driveway is a 20 foot 1979 ford custom camper coachman cadet. long title, short camper. it is stripped to the wood frame, still on the truck. all wiring pulled out, because it was corroding and brittle, thin wire.

anyway, I'm redoing the whole thing with new appliances/wood/caulk including but not limited to - natured head compost toilet, wave 8 catalytic heater, hot water heater, and stove. I also have 2x fantastic fans, and my compost toilet uses .05amps - .1 amps. so there is much less wiring now than before, I suppose, since there won't be any black tank, or furnace with thermostat/vents.

I will replace what I need to electronics wise, and am looking at converters now. mine was not working at all, when plugged in only the outlets and AC worked. I have the thing that looks like a circuit panel, it has breakers in it and all connections are solid with no corrosion. there don't appear to b e any parts there that could break, besides breakers which I will replace.

anyway, I'm unsure of buying a new converter, or a power center, because nom not 100% sure on what does what. I know they both convert 110 to 12v, and charge batteries. with a power center you seemingly get everything in one place, and if I were to get one, id grab the PD 90 amp. it is in the budget. however, they seem to not work as great as having all components separate.

does it make a difference which I get? the all in ones look nice and appear to save a lot of space/headache, not to mention I need to learn to wire everything here as I buy and install it. no idea what to do next. please help!

[Mako_Kupo]

I have gotten myself in a predicament. the guy who was leading the work, decided it was a good idea to take the walls off, and floor out but to leave the roof on! yay! not only that, but the entire back end wall came off too. now, we can't proceed without taking the roof and AC out. it is ridiculously unsafe. any ideas? please!

[Mako_Kupo]

thank you guys, all if this has helped tremendously. ill be finishing up removing caulking today, with any luck. then tomorrow I can start rebuilding, yay! I didn't want to reframe it, THEN have to remove the caulk, it would have been disheartening. now, when I finish framing, I can literally grab the panels and just stick them on. I think it was a good call, though I've put 20+ hours already into scrubbing caulk. worth it!

[westend]

I rewired my travel trailer, both 120V AC and 12v DC. I'd suggest to break out a piece of paper and mark locations for all receptacles, lights, pump, fans, and any 12V jacks needed.

The 120V is straight forward, observe typical residential code and you'll do fine.

For the 12V, you'll be able to do something that typical RV mfgs don't--pull both a positive phase and negative phase wire for each 12V device location instead of using a frame ground. This greatly eliminates a lot of 12V problems in the future.

I also pulled both supplies up into the ceiling and dropped down into the walls to the locations. I used 4" junction boxes in the ceiling so diagnosing a problem in the future is easier. I covered the hole for the junction box area with an aluminum plate that serves as the mount for a dual light fixture. I also installed a vacant 1" conduit in the ceiling, leading aft. That is for any future upgrades in the rear.

Good luck with the wire !

[pianotuna]

Yes, in the sense that every connection increases resistance by a slight amount. Approximately 10 microhms.

The best one can do is to have no interruptions of the circuit, from the fuse to the load. I'd prefer to overbuild with large wire and great DC rated switches.

Mako Kupo wrote:
doesn't every cut in
the wiring create voltage drop?

[Mako_Kupo]

just as an update. I bought my table saw, and mineral spirits. the mineral spirits is taking the silver stuff off no problem, thank goodness! I'm taking today(hopefully ONLY today) to remove ALL caulking possible, at this time. I'm sure I will encounter more, but for now I have tons, and tons of it to remove. at night, after removing caulking, I can read and learn what to do next. Monday we will be continuing on the frame, and honestly not a lot of it needs replacing so it won't take too long. then, the panels, lights, and from there its mostly fun times! ill be back I'm sure, thanks for the tips guys

[pianotuna]

My RV has wire rated for 15 amps on nearly all DC circuits. I think that would be a minimum. If I were starting from scratch I'd use wire that could handle 30 amps.

The main charging wire from the engine to the house bank is rated for 60 amps.
after the third failure, I replaced the fuse with an automatic reset 50 amp breaker. I deliberately went to 50 because breakers don't give the instant response that a fuse does.

My lighting is NOT all on one breaker. That's a nice feature because I would not be trying to replace a fuse in total darkness.

I've blown just one 12 volt fuse and it was my own fault. I accidentally connected a 500 watt load to a 400 watt inverter connected to a 15 amp 12 volt breaker. It blew instantly--which is exactly what is needed.

[Mako_Kupo]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Use TWINE to run a circuit. Cut long for pigtails then duplicate with genuine wire.


I MUCH prefer the nautical color code of using YELLOW for GROUND. Black is reserved exclusively for 120 volt house current. Use different color wire for individual 12 volt circuits with the exception of green and white the other two 120 vac color coded wires.

Head for Home Depot. Ask the electrical man there to show you SPECIFICATION GRADE RECEPTACLES. Receptacles look the same but "Spec Grade" receptacles are much higher quality and the slots do not become loose even after several years. They also sell NYLON receptacle and switch plates that are almost unbreakable.

Avoid cheap 12 volt wire.

Here are some decent wire and cable vendors

http://www.genuinedealz.com

http://allbatterysales.com

Tinned marine wire costs more but it is true American Wire Gauge sized and tinned coated copper. It's worth a hard look if you live or the trailer is stored closer than 10 miles from the coast.

so, to start with fresh wiring what would I have to do? I am not a mechanic, but I have a close friend who is somewhat competent. he did half of his schooling and can complete basic repairs. I could follow the conduit but how far back do I replace it all? doesn't every cut in
the wiring create voltage drop?

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Use TWINE to run a circuit. Cut long for pigtails then duplicate with genuine wire.


I MUCH prefer the nautical color code of using YELLOW for GROUND. Black is reserved exclusively for 120 volt house current. Use different color wire for individual 12 volt circuits with the exception of green and white the other two 120 vac color coded wires.

Head for Home Depot. Ask the electrical man there to show you SPECIFICATION GRADE RECEPTACLES. Receptacles look the same but "Spec Grade" receptacles are much higher quality and the slots do not become loose even after several years. They also sell NYLON receptacle and switch plates that are almost unbreakable.

Avoid cheap 12 volt wire.

Here are some decent wire and cable vendors

http://www.genuinedealz.com

http://allbatterysales.com

Tinned marine wire costs more but it is true American Wire Gauge sized and tinned coated copper. It's worth a hard look if you live or the trailer is stored closer than 10 miles from the coast.

[Mako_Kupo]

thank you, that guide is extremely helpful already. just scrolling down two inches, found a supremely simple and helpful diagram of an rv electric setup. just having that alone helps clarify and connect the dots of what I've been reading already. now I know what order everything goes in, and all of the equipment needed for the most part.

so now, I plan. will be kinda tough, and will only do a general design like - where walls are, appliances, seating, etc so I can (roughly) have an idea of where to position my wiring. thank you guys big help already!

tackling finishing removing caulking(so many ing's) this weekend and hopefully ordering everything I need for my electrical.

[sodajerk]

Lots of info here. 12 volt side of life

[donn0128]

Before starting any wiring, make a plan mark exactly where you want each switch, each light, each fan. Then it is a really simple matter to run the wires. Most lights are on one fuse, so it should be pretty simple. Things like water pump, refer, furnace are usually individually fused.

[Mako_Kupo]

wow, what a great idea! I am totally in over my head, since I've only ever dealt with 110/240v. I did a complete install from scratch on a 240v air conditioner, including adding the breaker to the panel and staying up to code. they could probably do it for some kind of credit or grade, and help me a ton in the process. what do I need for electronics though? whats the biggest difference between converters and power centers? thank you so much!

[MEXICOWANDERER]

I would think about contacting a high school auto shop (The teacher first). You can find talented students if you know what to look for. After school and weekend work would appeal to a lot of 17-year olds.

The teacher would intuitively know which student would have aptitude for electrical work. The student must be guided by you who in turn should be guided by knowledgeable advice and tips. This forum could provide a lot of assistance.

A great reference book. It's for marine but easy to decipher

http://www.ebay.com/itm/The-12-Volt-Bible-for-Boats-Paperback-or-Softback-/263223761053?epid=2371633...