StirCrazy

Kamloops, BC, Canada

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Joined: 07/16/2003

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I have a 2014 f350 and lately when I tow it isn't picking up that I have a trailer hooked up and it doesn't seem like the brakes are working on the 5th. the lights all work though.
anyone have a clue where to start looking or how to verify the truck side or the 5th side.
Steve
2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK
1991 Slumberqueen WS100
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BB_TX

McKinney, Texas

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Joined: 04/04/2005

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I would start by cleaning the contacts on the trailer cord connector and truck receptacle. Do you have both a bumper connector and an in-bed connector? If so, try the other one (which ever you do not normally use).
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JBarca

Radnor, Ohio, USA

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Joined: 12/16/2004

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BB_TX wrote: I would start by cleaning the contacts on the trailer cord connector and truck receptacle. Do you have both a bumper connector and an in-bed connector? If so, try the other one (which ever you do not normally use).
X2 on this above BB_TX.
I have had the same issue; the DOT lights work, but I lose the brake wire connection, and the controller shows the trailer disconnected. The issue on mine was with the trailer plug, and it depended on which trailer I plugged in. On some trailers, the plug fit into the Ford truck receptacle was not tight, and it seemed the brake wire lost the connection, mainly in turn. Or that I never saw the lights flicker as the controller used the brake wiring as the system to detect trailer was connected or not.
And then, on some trailers, dirt was jammed in the cord plug, holding the contacts apart on a friend's trailer I was repairing for him using my truck to tow it.
If you have the DOT lights but lose the brake, it points most times to the plug and receptacle connection.
I have found that using a velcro wrap over the receptacle cover and the trailer plug to hold them tight helps them wiggle loose in a turn situation.
Let us know what you find out. I'm sure there are more ways to have the problem happen. You need to keep those good tips for a day when you might need that info.
John
John & Cindy
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam
2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver
2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
(I wish we were camping!)
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ReneeG

Meridian, Idaho

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Joined: 07/13/2005

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We had this same problem and did all the above including replacing the pigtail, and having the dealership check the connection (without the FW hookup up). We ended up taking the FW to get the brakes checked. One side was completely disconnected, wires worn through and magnets floating free. Turned out the truck sensor was right!
2011 Bighorn 3055RL
2011 F350 DRW 6.7L 4x4 Diesel Lariat and Hensley TrailerSaver BD3
1992 Jeep ZJ and 1978 Coleman Concord Pop-Up for remote camping
Dave & Renee plus (Champ, Molly, Paris, Missy, and Maggie in spirit), Mica and Mabel, both Rat Terriers!
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StirCrazy

Kamloops, BC, Canada

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Joined: 07/16/2003

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JBarca wrote: BB_TX wrote: I would start by cleaning the contacts on the trailer cord connector and truck receptacle. Do you have both a bumper connector and an in-bed connector? If so, try the other one (which ever you do not normally use).
X2 on this above BB_TX.
I have had the same issue; the DOT lights work, but I lose the brake wire connection, and the controller shows the trailer disconnected. The issue on mine was with the trailer plug, and it depended on which trailer I plugged in. On some trailers, the plug fit into the Ford truck receptacle was not tight, and it seemed the brake wire lost the connection, mainly in turn. Or that I never saw the lights flicker as the controller used the brake wiring as the system to detect trailer was connected or not.
And then, on some trailers, dirt was jammed in the cord plug, holding the contacts apart on a friend's trailer I was repairing for him using my truck to tow it.
If you have the DOT lights but lose the brake, it points most times to the plug and receptacle connection.
I have found that using a velcro wrap over the receptacle cover and the trailer plug to hold them tight helps them wiggle loose in a turn situation.
Let us know what you find out. I'm sure there are more ways to have the problem happen. You need to keep those good tips for a day when you might need that info.
John
I'll look into that. I wonder if a bit of dielectric grease would help for trouble shooting.
Steve
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StirCrazy

Kamloops, BC, Canada

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Joined: 07/16/2003

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BB_TX wrote: I would start by cleaning the contacts on the trailer cord connector and truck receptacle. Do you have both a bumper connector and an in-bed connector? If so, try the other one (which ever you do not normally use).
ya I have both as I still use the bumper one for my camper and the in bed one for my 5th. I'll do that and see if it makes a difference
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JBarca

Radnor, Ohio, USA

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StirCrazy wrote: JBarca wrote: BB_TX wrote: I would start by cleaning the contacts on the trailer cord connector and truck receptacle. Do you have both a bumper connector and an in-bed connector? If so, try the other one (which ever you do not normally use).
X2 on this above BB_TX.
I have had the same issue; the DOT lights work, but I lose the brake wire connection, and the controller shows the trailer disconnected. The issue on mine was with the trailer plug, and it depended on which trailer I plugged in. On some trailers, the plug fit into the Ford truck receptacle was not tight, and it seemed the brake wire lost the connection, mainly in turn. Or that I never saw the lights flicker as the controller used the brake wiring as the system to detect trailer was connected or not.
And then, on some trailers, dirt was jammed in the cord plug, holding the contacts apart on a friend's trailer I was repairing for him using my truck to tow it.
If you have the DOT lights but lose the brake, it points most times to the plug and receptacle connection.
I have found that using a velcro wrap over the receptacle cover and the trailer plug to hold them tight helps them wiggle loose in a turn situation.
Let us know what you find out. I'm sure there are more ways to have the problem happen. You need to keep those good tips for a day when you might need that info.
John
I'll look into that. I wonder if a bit of dielectric grease would help for trouble shooting.
Steve
Dielectric grease is good stuff, but where do you want to use it? It helps prevent corrosion but is also an insulator; electricity will not pass through it. If you are considering cleaning the 7-wire plug, try CRC contact cleaner/electrical cleaner. It cleans and only leaves a slight film to help with corrosion.
I learned the hard way using dielectric grease on ignition system control wiring, and never again.
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BB_TX

McKinney, Texas

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StirCrazy wrote: BB_TX wrote: I would start by cleaning the contacts on the trailer cord connector and truck receptacle. Do you have both a bumper connector and an in-bed connector? If so, try the other one (which ever you do not normally use).
ya I have both as I still use the bumper one for my camper and the in bed one for my 5th. I'll do that and see if it makes a difference
I sometimes, but not always, had a connection issue with my in-bed connector but not my bumper connector. Ended up replacing the in-bed connector.
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Thermoguy

Graham, WA

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I have this problem with my 5th wheel on a chev. I use Dielectric grease and the problem goes away. If it comes back, I clean things up, add more Dielectric Grease and it goes away again.
Works for me.
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