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yet another door look bites the dust

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi,

Does anyone have a source for a trimark all steel lock?

It's a good thing I'm in a class C. Being locked in is not much fun.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
14 REPLIES 14

Kober
Explorer
Explorer
Mine broke too. They build these things with cheap plastic inside to make sure they can keep selling locks. I just bought a keyless. Haven't replaced it yet.
2014 Coachmen Freelander 29qb, towing a trailer with my toys:
2020 Honda Talon SXS, or
2006 Royal Star Tour Deluxe
2008 Road Star 1100
PATRIOT GUARD RIDER, AMERICAN LEGION RIDER
Retired 25 years US ARMY, retired 24 years business owner

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Does anyone have a source for a trimark all steel lock?


As far as I know Tri-mark does not make one

Seneca Engineering, A Machinist shop in Seneca, SC. made me a handful of Solid and I mean SOLID steel striker bolts for my Tri-Mark Basement locks.. Door locks are the same design but smaller bolts.

He can duplicate if you an send him the pieces. 40 bucks then likely 50-60 now.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
Anyone who hasnโ€™t had a RV door lock break likely doesnโ€™t understand how flawed of a design in general they are when it comes to being able to disassemble when the door and screen are shut.
Got a funny story about that, that if not for a couple guys who are adept at fixing most anything, would have just resulted in smashing it open and dealing with the aftermath.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

wing_zealot
Explorer
Explorer
Deleted

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
I got mine from General RV. but.....

What breaks normally is the striker bolt. the highest stress point on the bolt is also the weakest and they make 'em out of ... **** metal (Pot metal). I took the pieces to a metal smith (Machinest) and had him carve me a new one out of steel. 40 bucks. did a fantastic job.. soak it in oil (or boil in oil) for a bit then install... That did NOT break. Note DOOR and "Basement" are same design but different sizes... I can point you to a repair tech with a few basement bolts. (4 or 5 I forget which)( but she's in Florida this time of year.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Explorer II
Ed_Gee wrote:


I wish you had specified what Trimark lock. If its the T507 common to so many class C RVs, like mine, Did your latch bolt break? Its cheap pot metal. There's a guy who sells repair kit, easy to do, with a beautifully crafted stainless steel latch bolt replacement. I can vouch for this.

Yeah I remembered that repair kit,got it saved somewhere..Ahh here it is.

https://www.latchfix.com/
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
I have replaced mine twice over the years when they broke and the third time, I made a steel backing plate to join the two pieces of the zinc alloy striker bar that broke. It has held up well. Someone posted on here a while back about a new lock that he thought was steel but could not verify that it was. This alloy which some call pot metal is brittle and soft, it is cast and not forged or drawn like steel making it much weaker. You need to take it part to see what is actually broken. It could also be the plastic cam inside that moves the sticker bar.

Ed_Gee
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Does anyone have a source for a trimark all steel lock?

It's a good thing I'm in a class C. Being locked in is not much fun.


I wish you had specified what Trimark lock. If its the T507 common to so many class C RVs, like mine, Did your latch bolt break? Its cheap pot metal. There's a guy who sells repair kit, easy to do, with a beautifully crafted stainless steel latch bolt replacement. I can vouch for this.
Ed - on the Central Oregon coast
2018 Winnebago Fuse 23A
Scion xA toad

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi,

As we get to -40 I do not want an electric lock of any kind.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

RLS7201
Explorer
Explorer
ronharmless wrote:
Clicky



Good idea. But a screw driver bit and a 1/4" wrench fits in smaller areas.

Richard
95 Bounder 32H F53 460
2013 CRV Toad
2 Segways in Toad
First brake job
1941 Hudson

ronharmless
Explorer
Explorer

opnspaces
Navigator
Navigator
Can you sneak in a right angle screw driver?
Harbor Freight
.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
JimK-NY wrote:
Since you are in a class C, it doesn't matter but you should be able to unscrew and remove the lock from inside the RV. When mine broke, I had no problem finding a replacement at an RV parts store. I never saw an all steel model. Mine has plastic parts on the inside.


Thanks for the reply.

Except that the screen door covers one of the screws. What a 'smart' design.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

JimK-NY
Explorer II
Explorer II
Since you are in a class C, it doesn't matter but you should be able to unscrew and remove the lock from inside the RV. When mine broke, I had no problem finding a replacement at an RV parts store. I never saw an all steel model. Mine has plastic parts on the inside.