JIMNLIN
Oklahoma
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Joined: 09/14/2003
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HTElectrical wrote:I can not believe all of the nonsense on this post. I have a 2007 2500hd Duramax with a 7" to 9" Cognito lift, and Deaver springs. I tow a 28'6" Vortex trailer that weighs in at 12780 lbs, and a tongue weight of 1340lbs, resting on an Equalizer hitch with 1,400 lb bars. Been towing for 11 years and it is rock solid even in the wind.
Does your 2500 GM product have rear coil springs ??
Those rear coil springs open up a whole different game played with suspension lifts or body lifts on rear coil suspensions.
Best advice for a rookie with a lifted truck that nothing is known about the lift (body or suspension/play or work lifts) who say weights and specs are new needs to find out what type of lift and the lift mfg specs say.....especially a truck with rear coils.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers
'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 two slides
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Pbutler97
Midwest
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schlep1967 wrote:
WIthout knowing what was added to the truck everybody on here is just guessing.
JRscooby wrote:
We really can't know.
Exactly.......Hello.......Bingo!
But those simple facts will not stop the post after post of complete BS, heresay, and opinion now will they? But enjoy, it's all good. I'd expect nothing different.
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MFL
Midwest
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Four pages after asking, only one response, from a member actually towing with a lifted truck, but not same truck.
Early on, I mentioned a similar truck (Grit dog's truck), towing a TT toy hauler that is 34.5' long, and 8.5' wide, without using any WDH. Yes, he is experienced, and understands lifted trucks, more than most. Too bad he did not chime in, with his thoughts.
Grits rig: 2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29
Lot of replies, some rude, some well meaning, but little help to OP, who is no longer responding.
Jerry
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cptqueeg
Idaho
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MFL wrote:
Lot of replies, some rude, some well meaning, but little help to OP, who is no longer responding.
Jerry
SOP
But many/some/few follow along and glean bits and pieces of info along the way so it's not totally in vain.
But we could do w/out rudeness.
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GIB2
Welland
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You might want to check with your insurance provider to see how they feel. As mentioned you appear to be looking for a support group but where will they be in the event of a catastrophe ?
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FireGuard
Frazier Park
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A lot of good info by other members so I won’t repeat it.
If you don’t want to remove the lift I would focus on the tires.
If you have a large soft sidewall tire like a C or D rated you can improve your setup.
I would go back to stock size (275 or 285 /70/17) on the factory wheel or equivalent.
You can also get some better tires with a stiff sidewall and way more capacity than many big tires used on lifted trucks.
The right tire will make a HUGE difference in stability.
Good luck.
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valhalla360
No paticular place.
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MFL wrote:Four pages after asking, only one response, from a member actually towing with a lifted truck, but not same truck.
Maybe because it's not a great idea to begin with and with a wide variety of lift kit quality and installation, simply saying someone else did it, doesn't mean it's a good idea for the OP to do the same.
Can it be done? Sure
Can it be done safely without mechanical breakdown? We don't have enough info.
Removing the lift or finding a good shop that does lifts (but not the one that did this installation) to inspect and provide guidance are the two best options.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
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Curly2001
Tucson, Arizona
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Today's trucks from the factory are too tall as it is, to really do a good job of towing a fiver without a nose high trailer. A lifted truck would be worse and there is really no way that I know of to compensate for bed rail clearance with a tall truck. I have the nose high issue with my stock truck and my fiver. I would put the truck down to stock height if at all possible, even if it is an equalizer hitch and not a fiver.
Curly
2019 Chev. Double cab 2500HD, 6.0, 4:10 diffs, six speed auto
2013 Heartland Sundance XLT 265RK
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Thermoguy
Graham, WA
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FireGuard wrote:A lot of good info by other members so I won’t repeat it.
If you don’t want to remove the lift I would focus on the tires.
If you have a large soft sidewall tire like a C or D rated you can improve your setup.
I would go back to stock size (275 or 285 /70/17) on the factory wheel or equivalent.
You can also get some better tires with a stiff sidewall and way more capacity than many big tires used on lifted trucks.
The right tire will make a HUGE difference in stability.
Good luck.
I was at a tire dealer the other day getting my snow tires put on my daily driver. There was a guy there with a lifted truck getting new tires. The guy brought out a good meaty off road tire for him, load range F.... they were much bigger than the tires on my 2500, LT-E tires... if I recall, 22" but didn't get the rest of the measurements. Just remember the load range F. I don't think those tires would have been the weak spot.
* This post was
edited 11/22/22 01:43pm by Thermoguy *
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JRscooby
Indepmo
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Thermoguy wrote:
I was at a tire dealer the other day getting my snow tires put on my daily driver. There was a guy there with a lifted truck getting new tires. The guy brought out a good meaty off road tire for him, load range F.... they were much bigger than the tires on my 2500, LT-E tires... if I recall, 22" but didn't get the rest of the measurements. Just remember the load range F. I don't think those tires would have been the weak spot.
Taller tires by themselves may not be the weak spot, but they will locate the weak spot in the drivetrain. Add the strain of a trailer, the idea this is the family car, and I can see trouble.
Years back friend asked me to take a shift pushing snow with his modified 4X4. I laughed when I saw his sign center dash. REMEMBER DUMBASH, YOU NEED TO DRIVE IT HOME. He said his wife put it there for when he wants to play.
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