Baja Man
Inland Empire, CA
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Joined: 02/20/2005
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Thank you all for the very useful ways to keep warm safely and how to clean my tanks.
Much appreciated.
I have a small electric space heater we will take.
Will use propane (as needed) as suggested during awake hours. We'll try electric space heater first since there are full hook ups.
Extra blankets, beanies, socks, and warm clothes in general. We should be good to go.
I like the idea of filling the black tank a second time (after initial dump) using the flush system. I do have a clear angle fitting to view dump contents.
2003 Ford F-350 XLT Super Duty, Crew Cab, V10 (6.8L); 4X2; Standard Bed; SRW; 4R100 Trans
2011 Outback 250RS - Anniversary Edition
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Joined: 12/18/2004
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Baja Man,
Please replace the outlet where you intend to connect the electric heater.
I replaced all but one of the outlets.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
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ktmrfs
Portland, Oregon
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pianotuna wrote:Baja Man,
Please replace the outlet where you intend to connect the electric heater.
I replaced all but one of the outlets.
the trailer backstab outlets are a bigger issue and more failure prone when used with inductive loads. e.g. microwave, motors, AC units, than they are with a pure resistive load. e.g. heater, toaster, coffee maker.
That said I did replace my backstabs in the trailer with high grade outlets. IMHO the el cheapo sticks and bricks outlets even though they aren't backstabs are no better than the trailer backstabs. The springs on the contacts are cheap material and loose tension with any heat from high load current and aren't good under inductive loads either.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!
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LMHS
NM
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Joined: 06/27/2022
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Heater:
This is my full-time set up and the reasons behind it...
I have a dual control heated electric mattress pad on my bed. It's the kind you sleep on top of as opposed to sleeping under a heated electric blanket (heat rises). I have a 0°F sleeping bag opened up flat and tucked inside a "full" duvet cover as a "comforter". The duvet covers cut down on having to wash the bulky sleeping bag. The only problem with the duvet cover is that I had to add buttonholes to the sleeping bag (to secure it inside a duvet cover) and a full-size duvet cover fits widthwise but is a tad long by about 6-8 inches (I shorten the duvet cover).
I have a small electric space heater in the bedroom. I do use electric even though the first house my husband and I owned burned down due to an electrical fire. The bedroom is kept cooler at night for sleeping.
My main heating source is a fan-forced ventless propane residential fireplace with a thermostat. I do run it all night. The fan is not set up to run during a power outage. I also have a "Tag-a-long" indoor propane space heater (back-up heat source for the bedroom) and a Mr Buddy indoor propane space heater (just to warm up the bathroom for showers) plumbed into the main LP system. I do have a CO & LP detector.
I lived for a very long time in an area that tended to lose power a lot in the winter. I learned to have heat and cooking sources that could still be used in the event of a powder outage. I'm talking about power outages that could last up to a week. I haven't lost power for very long in years but it wasn't that long ago that northern NM lost power for over a week due to a winter storm. We only lost power for 1 day, but it was a very cold day and night. At that time, I was still running the fireplace off a single 20LB BBQ tank (to see how much LP it used). I learned that the fireplace could run 24 hours for 7 days on one full tank (4.7 gallons). That's better than the propane generator which eats a tank in 8 hours but always starts right up even after not having run for two years. The worst LP consumption the fireplace had was 5 days on the 20# tank but the fireplace was cranked up really high and ran constantly. I eventually put two marks on the thermostat knob (high and low) of the temps that I typically use. We get single digit temps in the worst of winter. Occasionally those single digits are negative.
Since I am on metered electric, and I do keep track of my actual usage (not dollar amount), I know that whether I use propane or electric, it is basically the same. I either pay for the propane (250 gallon propane tank gets filled to 200 gallons, or less as we pay up front before it gets delivered, every 8-10 months) or I pay for the electric. I do think I stay warmer with propane than electric (I "FEEL" warmer). I also think the electric oil filled radiator doesn't work once it gets below 45°F. Maybe I just got a sucky one.
BTW, statistically, unvented gas appliances put out less humidity than an adult does in normal breathing. So basically, for each unvented gas appliance you use, it's like adding an extra human breathing in the same time frame.
I used to live in 80% (and higher) humidity. I currently live in a desert. My aluminum-framed, single pane windows have PVC framed interior storm windows with a layer of Reflectix between the storm window and the aluminum-framed, single pane window. Creating a thermal break between the aluminum frames and inside had to be done otherwise it was all a waste of time. The front windshield and entry door have packing quilt-Reflectix curtains over them to keep the cold and heat out (or in, depending on the seasons). The curtain over the door means the dog can go in/out as she wants without me having to play door attendant for her. I bought cheap cotton (washable) drop cloths from Harbor Freight to cover the somewhat ugly packing quilts that come in odd colours at times. I'm a big fan of cotton drop cloths and I love the natural colour and texture of the washed canvas. I replace the quilts (Harbor Freight) and Reflectix every few years as the sun rots them. I tried clear bubble wrap and while it worked and it wasn't dark inside, the bubble wrap lasted less than a year before the sun destroyed it.
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Baja Man
Inland Empire, CA
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Joined: 02/20/2005
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pianotuna wrote:Baja Man,
Please replace the outlet where you intend to connect the electric heater.
I replaced all but one of the outlets.
Is this appropriate grade? It has side screws as well as push in connections. Is screw connections preferred in RVs?
Also, should I expect a receptacle box or will I find those enclosed wirecon type boxes/receptacles? If the latter, perhaps an old work box and receptacle would be best.
15 amp residential receptacle
Thanks!
* This post was
edited 11/22/22 07:44pm by Baja Man *
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ktmrfs
Portland, Oregon
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Joined: 06/22/2005
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Baja Man wrote:pianotuna wrote:Baja Man,
Please replace the outlet where you intend to connect the electric heater.
I replaced all but one of the outlets.
Is this appropriate grade? It has side screws as well as push in connections. Is screw connections preferred in RVs?
Also, should I expect a receptacle box or will I find those enclosed wirecon type boxes/receptacles? If the latter, perhaps an old work box and receptacle would be best.
15 amp residential receptacle
Thanks!
I never use "residential grade" switches, outlets etc.
the outlets are designed ( and code required) to be used in a box, the RV outlets are designed to not need a box. Problem is that many trailer walls are to thin for most boxes, need a shallow box.
use a comercial grade outlet or better. They have much better and higher spring contact on the blades, better material on the blades and better frame and better side lugs.
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Baja Man
Inland Empire, CA
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Joined: 02/20/2005
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So how about these....assuming a box can be installed.
If box will not fit, where can the higher quality RV specific receptacles be sourced? How will I know they are better than what I have? The ones I have seen appear to require a tool to install wires in rear. They also appear to be of same quality as I have now (stab style).
Commercial grade outlet
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ktmrfs
Portland, Oregon
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Joined: 06/22/2005
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Baja Man wrote:So how about these....assuming a box can be installed.
If box will not fit, where can the higher quality RV specific receptacles be sourced? How will I know they are better than what I have? The ones I have seen appear to require a tool to install wires in rear. They also appear to be of same quality as I have now (stab style).
Commercial grade outlet
that's what I have used however do NOT install the 20A outlet on a 15A circuit!!!!!! against code, use the 15A outlet, you don't want to be able to try to run something with a 20A plug on a 15A circuit.
There is a "shallow" retrofit plastic box that in my trailer was shallow enough to fit in the existing wall.
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Joined: 05/06/2013
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Would seem easier at this point to just use your furnace and a little more propane…
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Joined: 12/18/2004
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Hi,
Use the best quality you can find with screw terminals. My replacement outlets are all 15 amp.
The "extra" outlets for my two auxiliary shore power cords are 15 amp, and 20 amp with appropriate wiring.
I'm set up to use the OEM 30; add on 20; and add on 15 amp.
While you are at this, take the time to tighten all the connections in the breaker panel. Some of mine took one whole turn.
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