rerod

Iowa

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Ive learned on RV forums new silicone caulk will not adhere and seal to old and have avoided it like the plague since then, also considering how difficult it is to remove it.
Which type of caulk can you remove with a solvent and elbow grease, and also allow you to apply it over itself and be water tight?
Thanks
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bob213

Fresno, CA

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Lexel
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rerod

Iowa

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bob213 wrote: Lexel
Thanks Bob..
When fungal growth finally stains white lexel, will a rag with solvent remove the stain? Which solvent?
Thanks
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bob213

Fresno, CA

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Quote: Thanks Bob..
When fungal growth finally stains white lexel, will a rag with solvent remove the stain? Which solvent?
Thanks
Not wet enough here to have that problem (yet) so I can't really say. I have reapplied over old with clear in the shower and a few other places without a problem. Cleans off pretty easy.
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Turtle n Peeps

California

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I don't know if it comes off with solvent but the pro's use Proflex RV. I just used Dicor on mine.
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4x4van

California

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rerod wrote: Ive learned on RV forums new silicone caulk will not adhere and seal to old ![scratchead [emoticon]](https://forums.motorhome.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/scratchead.gif) ...
Yet a Youtube search says the opposite.
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Bobbo

Wherever I park

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4x4van wrote: rerod wrote: Ive learned on RV forums new silicone caulk will not adhere and seal to old ![scratchead [emoticon]](https://forums.motorhome.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/scratchead.gif) ...
Yet a Youtube search says the opposite.
And, you can believe everything you read on the internet. Including on this forum.
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JIMNLIN

Oklahoma

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Quote: Ive learned on RV forums new silicone caulk will not adhere and seal to old and have avoided it like the plague since then, also considering how difficult it is to remove it.
Depends on the type of silicone being used.
What is the difference between acetoxy and neutral cure silicone?
***As acetoxy cure silicones release acetic acid whilst curing they can cause problems when used on certain substrates.
When used on natural stone they can cause discolouration, when used on certain metals they can cause corrosion and on bituminous surfaces they can cause "bleeding" of the bitumen.
So when applying sealant to sensitive surfaces we would always recommend using a neutral cure silicone over a acetoxy silicone as they will not react.
Generally acetoxy silicones are used for kitchens, bathrooms and other internal sealing applications as they are more cost effective and faster curing than their neutral curing counterparts.
Whereas **neutral cure silicones have better adhesion and weatherproofing properties** compared to acetoxy silicones making them the superior option for external applications.***
Quote: Which type of caulk can you remove with a solvent and elbow grease, and also allow you to apply it over itself and be water tight?
All I've ever used on my 1997 32' 5th wheel trailer is Dicor self leveling on the roof and their non sag Dicor on vertical surfaces.
Good sealants don't remove easily. Be sure and follow the sealant and the roof material instruction on removal.
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rerod

Iowa

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Bobbo wrote: 4x4van wrote: rerod wrote: Ive learned on RV forums new silicone caulk will not adhere and seal to old ![scratchead [emoticon]](https://forums.motorhome.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/scratchead.gif) ...
Yet a Youtube search says the opposite.
And, you can believe everything you read on the internet. Including on this forum.
JIMNLIN wrote: Quote: Ive learned on RV forums new silicone caulk will not adhere and seal to old and have avoided it like the plague since then, also considering how difficult it is to remove it.
Depends on the type of silicone being used.
What is the difference between acetoxy and neutral cure silicone?
***As acetoxy cure silicones release acetic acid whilst curing they can cause problems when used on certain substrates.
When used on natural stone they can cause discolouration, when used on certain metals they can cause corrosion and on bituminous surfaces they can cause "bleeding" of the bitumen.
So when applying sealant to sensitive surfaces we would always recommend using a neutral cure silicone over a acetoxy silicone as they will not react.
Generally acetoxy silicones are used for kitchens, bathrooms and other internal sealing applications as they are more cost effective and faster curing than their neutral curing counterparts.
Whereas **neutral cure silicones have better adhesion and weatherproofing properties** compared to acetoxy silicones making them the superior option for external applications.***
I should have said, once silicone has cured, new silicone will not stick or seal to it..
Are you saying neutral cure silicone once cured, will allow new neutral cure silicone to seal to it?
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rerod

Iowa

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Read the comment by Wyaj78
As someone who worked in the maritime industry for 20 years doing most everything you can imagine the answer is a resounding no. My first rule is to NEVER use silicone period. It’s a contaminant more than it is a sealant. I’ve never experienced it sticking to itself with any success... ever. I haven’t ever seen it not fail either.
When sealing anything the number one rule is to over prep the area you’re going to seal. This includes roughing up the surfaces and cleaning it of any oils before you continue. Removing existing silicone is extremely labor intensive. Sure, the bulk is removed easy enough but what’s penetrated into the surface area is fairly permanent creating a big problem because it won’t stick to its self let alone anything else.
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