Propane smell inside trailer...how to best diagnose?

[Baja_Man]

I am going through testing all trailer systems...refer on propane, heater, stove, oven.

Two days ago I switched refer over to propane to let it run on propane and see if it would get colder than when on 120V. It did not. It actually was 1-2 degrees warmer!

I tested stove, oven, and furnace (lighting and letting them run for 5-10 mins) and then shutting them off. I left the refer on propane overnight.

Yesterday, there is a gas odor inside the trailer. Not sure where it is coming from....stove, furnace, or refer....all of these were run on propane for testing. I thought maybe it was residual gas smell from when I was lighting the burners (it took a minute or so for propane to get to stove/oven, as they had not been lit for many months.

Today, I entered trailer and could still smell gas, so I turned off the refer and closed propane tank valve.

NOTE: I did check, before running any propane items, using soapy water in a spray bottle, the lines that connect tanks to diverter valve. No leaks at these rubber lines.

Propane detector alarm did NOT activate.

Thoughts on where this gas smell can be coming from? BTW...it does not smell like rotten eggs (read that propane can smell like this)...to me, it smells like propane gas.

I guess I could spray soapy water on ALL line connections inside trailer....stove and furnace. Furnace is installed under a couch.

Could it be refer....since it didn't get colder than when running on 120V? Maybe refer is not getting all the propane (due to a leak) it needs to work at optimum level while on propane?

Where to start? Other methods beside soapy water?

Thanks!

[Baja_Man]

The solution....

Replaced stove/oven with a new Greystone 17" unit. Fit was great and fit and finish of the unit is very good. All connections were checked with sniffer and soap/water. No leaks. This unit is a nice upgrade over previous...with lighted oven and knobs; cast grate; folding glass counter over grate; and spark igniter for stove burners and oven burner (previous did not have spark lighter for oven burner).

We'll see how well she performs on our next week long trip which is in a couple of weeks.

Thanks for all the assistance and guidance!

[Baja_Man]

opnspaces wrote:
In your picture above you have the tip of the sniffer sitting on a round silver piece. Is that silver piece a bolt blocking off a hole? Or does the copper propane line in the picture thread into the end of the silver piece?

If it's a blocking bolt I would probably try removing the bolt and using some thread sealant on it.

If the copper propane line connects to it then it sounds like the control has a very small leak. In this case I would try using some fine emery paper on the sealing surface of the copper tube and freshen it up then screw it back in making sure it goes in straight.

The silver fitting is not a blocking bolt; the brass line connects to the end of it. I cleaned the end fitting and ensured it went in straight. Still leaking.

Thermostat control is not available...parts have been discontinued since Atwood was purchased by Dometic. Tried several well-know outfits, and they all said the same thing...not available.

Found an entire new manifold assemble with the thermostat control I need....$150!! If I replace with this, and something else goes out, I'm back to square one.

Used part was found but I will not install a used part.

I decided to replace the stove. Found a 17" Greystone that should fit. has a one year warranty.

[opnspaces]

In your picture above you have the tip of the sniffer sitting on a round silver piece. Is that silver piece a bolt blocking off a hole? Or does the copper propane line in the picture thread into the end of the silver piece?

If it's a blocking bolt I would probably try removing the bolt and using some thread sealant on it.

If the copper propane line connects to it then it sounds like the control has a very small leak. In this case I would try using some fine emery paper on the sealing surface of the copper tube and freshen it up then screw it back in making sure it goes in straight.

[Baja_Man]

Update:

Turned of propane. Lit burner to remove remaining propane from lines (burner lit for less than 30 secoonds). Vacuumed lower oven and upper burner area to remove any residual propane.

Traced lower brass line (pictured in previous post) up to thermostat oven control (see attached pic).


Turned propane back on.....

Checked thermostat oven control using sniffer. It went of immediately when near the control. Used soapy water and very, very small air bubbles are coming from the threads (round silver fitting behind where sniffer is placed - see pic). It appears to be leaking from this fitting's threads.

Why would the threads be leaking? Unless the fitting is closed until the brass line is attached and then it opens?

I tried to tighten the silver fitting (nut on end and also fitting itself), but it did not stop leak.

Is this thermostat oven control supposed to be closed when not in use?
Is it supposed to open when knob is turned to pilot and pushed in and/or when turned to degree setting to set oven temp?

My guess is, it is leaking internally, but the air bubbles at threads has me puzzled.

Thoughts?
Thanks

[MFL]

It sounds like the OPs leak detector is doing a great job of sniffing. Maybe even too good of job? With detector nearly touching the source, sniffing, it may have just picked up the residual?

All is good now, I'd trust the newly installed detector, and keep that little sniffer handy when using the trailer.

Jerry

[Mike134]

I had a gas leak in my garage to my heater. Soapy water was no help.
found it in 5 minutes with this.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HOME-FLEX-Electronic-Gas-Leak-Detector-11-810-001/301876827

[Baja_Man]

I'm now a little confused...

I pushed oven pilot knob and gas exited end of line. Sniffer went off immediately. I turned oven knob to off. I used a shop to remove residual propane gas smell.

Waited about 30 min and checked line again. No leak.

Perhaps, all along it was residual propane from when oven and burners were tested?

Perhaps the use of the push knob control for oven pilot several times (several pushes were made) cleared something that kept it from completely sealing?

[Baja_Man]

I checked again today. The propane appears to be leaking from the line that comes from the oven pilot assembly (where control knob connects). Pic attached. I tightened it, but it did not stop the leak.

I believe there should be no propane leaking from the end of this line at any time, except when the oven knob is pushed which allows propane to flow through this line to the pilot. Is this correct?

I will now test to see when gas is turned on, is it leaking from this line when knob is NOT pushed. Sound correct?

NOTE: The line that enters the pilot burner assembly has a brass end piece (cap sleeve) with a pin hole on end. Is this to reduce the amount propane flow?

[Baja_Man]

Vintage465 wrote:
I've had propane smell twice in my coach. Once it was the little supply tube that leads to the pilot for the oven. When you light the pilot it would leak just a fuzz amount where the compression nut tightens to the pilot. Why the pilot didn't burn it off is a bit of a mystery to me. The other was where the copper line tied into the furnace. It had a little fuzz leak and when you'd turn on the furnace and blast thru the duct system it would suck that fuzz leak smell throughout the coach. S'pose the bottom line is check all your connections that come into the coach. Stove/Oven. Referigerator. Furnace. Water heater, but if that is leaking it should vent to the outside, but I'd chech it all anyway.

I turned on propane yesterday morning and left ALL appliances off.
The propane alarm does not appear to have sounded/triggered.

After checking today, it looks like my oven is leaking. The smell appeared to be coming from around that area so that's where I started. I used a gas sniffer.

It appears to be leaking near line that enters oven. I'll see if I can find some product info/manual to see an exploded view and give me an idea of what I'm looking at. I'll start by removing the interior grate and lower shelf (screwed into sides). This will provide me access to burner and the pilot area.

[Vintage465]

I've had propane smell twice in my coach. Once it was the little supply tube that leads to the pilot for the oven. When you light the pilot it would leak just a fuzz amount where the compression nut tightens to the pilot. Why the pilot didn't burn it off is a bit of a mystery to me. The other was where the copper line tied into the furnace. It had a little fuzz leak and when you'd turn on the furnace and blast thru the duct system it would suck that fuzz leak smell throughout the coach. S'pose the bottom line is check all your connections that come into the coach. Stove/Oven. Referigerator. Furnace. Water heater, but if that is leaking it should vent to the outside, but I'd chech it all anyway.

[pianotuna]

Baja Man wrote:

pianotuna wrote:

Baja Man wrote:

midnightsadie wrote:
go check your battey, when they run out of water they smell BAD.

They are maintenance free.

Smell is inside trailer.

Maintenance free can smell to high heaven when they fail.

How are they checked? They are about one year old.

Look to see if they are bulging.

[Lwiddis]

“Didn't realize propane was that flammable.”

On the “that” scale, propane is “that” flammable.

[Baja_Man]

agwill wrote:
When your tanks get low on propane you will also find there is an odor of gas.

Tanks are full.

[Baja_Man]

schlep1967 wrote:
Did you leave the pilot light in the oven on? If it goes out it will still be releasing propane.

Pilot extinguishes when oven is turned off.