How to find tow rating of an F150?

[plasticmaster]

I'm shopping for a used F150. Can someone please explain the easiest method of finding the actual tow rating for an individual truck? I know I can find the axle ratio and payload capacity on the door jamb sticker. That's as far as I've gotten. Thanks.

[Retired_JSO]

Ford fleet for the year you are looking at gives all towing info as to cab/bed/engine/etc.

[Grit_dog]

MitchF150 wrote:


If all you do is pop it in "D" and stab the go pedal, you'll get down the road..

That's where we're at, at this stage of the conversation.
Details don't matter....OP just want's assurance that it's "enough."

Back to detailed recommendations. The 5.0 Coyote engine and the 5.3 LS have nearly identical hp and torque curves. Still a 40+ hp power advantage to a new 5.0 over the OP's 5.3.
The rest is basically the same, apples to apples, as well.

Now back when the Coyote engine was new, it was top of the heap for little small blocks. 2011 F150 5.0, 6 speed blew the doors off of a 5.3 GM. Noticeably better.

[MitchF150]

What you are asking is a 'subjective' opinion at best.. I would notice the difference right away..

Heck with my old 97 F150 with 3.55's I noticed a difference just when I bumped up tire size about 2" overall. Had to change the speedo gear and it did make a difference overall.

But, that was with a low hp engine and 4 speed auto trans (5.4 and 4R100)

Anyway, good luck with the search. Either way, you'll want to keep that 5.0 above 2500 rpms I would think, just on the flats, and 4000 on the grades and that's what the trans gears are for no matter what rear end ratio you have.

If all you do is pop it in "D" and stab the go pedal, you'll get down the road.. Manually shifting to the gear that fits for the terrain you are on at the moment, helps the "tow experience", but then you have to know what your truck likes or does not like and that's usually just time in the seat and find what works best for you.

Good luck! Mitch

[Grit_dog]

plasticmaster wrote:

I'm shopping for a used truck. I have looked at the towing guide and would prefer to get the 3.55 gears for the 5.0, but if I can't find one and get the 3.31 gears, would I really feel a big enough difference to really matter? That's what I'm trying to figure out. Either way, I would have either 9100# or 10100# tow capacity according to the chart. I'm good on payload as it is higher than my current truck.

Unless your current Silverado is the max tow whatever with 3.73s (not super likely), it has either 3.23 or 3.42 gears and less power and bigger gear splits compared to the 5-OH.

You can't ask a question like "is it enough to matter?" Too vague and based on what you personally like or will accept.
Because my answer could be different than the next guys.
Oh, and the difference will not be huge (about as succinct as "enough", lol) strictly with different gearing. 10 speed will make up for some of it.
If you want "enough to matter", look for a 3.73.10 speed 3.5 Ecoboost.
It will blow the doors off your ole Silvy!
(And I don;t even like Fords, but thems the facts! lol)

Bottom line, what I first said still stands. They all will perform as well or better than your current truck. Save for the base V6.

[plasticmaster]

Grit dog wrote:

plasticmaster wrote:
So, in all honesty, if I'm good on the payload number, will I notice much difference between the 9100# and 10,100# difference in tow capacity for the different axle ratios? My total loaded camper weight is between 9000 to 9500#. I'm looking for answers to this question and not recommendations to get a F250 or F350. Thanks.

Through your last few posts, it's become evident that, while you appear to be capable/comfortable towing big loads behind a half ton, you have no idea why it "feels" ok to you.

Virtually any new F150 with a tow package that isn't the base 3.3L V6 will pull as well or better than your current truck. And you appear to not have looked at the towing guide, or you'd already be honing in on the "right" models for "you."
2.7 Eco boost with 3.73s will tow better than your Silverado.
3.5 Eco boost and 5.0 with 3.73s will embarrass the old 5.3 6 speed.



And yes, you should notice the difference between 3.31s and 3.73s. However, with a 10 speed, you can just about drive around the higher final drive ratio with the plethora of trans gears to choose from.

Is your next thread going to be about Rams or Nissans?

I'm shopping for a used truck. I have looked at the towing guide and would prefer to get the 3.55 gears for the 5.0, but if I can't find one and get the 3.31 gears, would I really feel a big enough difference to really matter? That's what I'm trying to figure out. Either way, I would have either 9100# or 10100# tow capacity according to the chart. I'm good on payload as it is higher than my current truck.

[MFL]

On a late model 150 with 6, or 10 speed, a noticeable difference, but IMO, not enough to matter. May need to stay locked a gear lower, with taller gearing.

Towing similar wt FW, with 6.2 V8 3.73, I lock out 6th gear. About the same as having 4.30 gears, but towing in 6th.

Jerry

[Grit_dog]

plasticmaster wrote:
So, in all honesty, if I'm good on the payload number, will I notice much difference between the 9100# and 10,100# difference in tow capacity for the different axle ratios? My total loaded camper weight is between 9000 to 9500#. I'm looking for answers to this question and not recommendations to get a F250 or F350. Thanks.

Through your last few posts, it's become evident that, while you appear to be capable/comfortable towing big loads behind a half ton, you have no idea why it "feels" ok to you.

Virtually any new F150 with a tow package that isn't the base 3.3L V6 will pull as well or better than your current truck. And you appear to not have looked at the towing guide, or you'd already be honing in on the "right" models for "you."
2.7 Eco boost with 3.73s will tow better than your Silverado.
3.5 Eco boost and 5.0 with 3.73s will embarrass the old 5.3 6 speed.



And yes, you should notice the difference between 3.31s and 3.73s. However, with a 10 speed, you can just about drive around the higher final drive ratio with the plethora of trans gears to choose from.

Is your next thread going to be about Rams or Nissans?

[plasticmaster]

So, in all honesty, if I'm good on the payload number, will I notice much difference between the 9100# and 10,100# difference in tow capacity for the different axle ratios? My total loaded camper weight is between 9000 to 9500#. I'm looking for answers to this question and not recommendations to get a F250 or F350. Thanks.

[Boomerweps]

mkirsch wrote:

plasticmaster wrote:
I'm shopping for a used F150. Can someone please explain the easiest method of finding the actual tow rating for an individual truck? I know I can find the axle ratio and payload capacity on the door jamb sticker. That's as far as I've gotten. Thanks.

Axle ratio is not on the door sticker.

Yes, it is. It is a letter code on the federally mandated sticker. Letter codes are listed in the owner’s manual.

[mkirsch]

plasticmaster wrote:
I'm shopping for a used F150. Can someone please explain the easiest method of finding the actual tow rating for an individual truck? I know I can find the axle ratio and payload capacity on the door jamb sticker. That's as far as I've gotten. Thanks.

Axle ratio is not on the door sticker.

If you want a rough idea of manufacturer's tow capacity, multiply the payload by 7.

If you want a rough idea of realistic tow capacity, multiply the payload by 5.

Otherwise get the cab and bed configuration by looking at the truck, then look up the axle ratio on the RPO code (does Ford call them RPO codes?) sticker in the glove compartment. Take that information to the towing guide you downloaded off the Internet and look up your tow rating. Once you've done a couple you'll have a pretty good idea.

Really it is not THAT important. Look for a truck with the V8 or big Ecoboost and axle ratios no numerically lower than 3.42 with a 6-speed transmission.

[mkirsch]

Lwiddis wrote:
I wouldn’t buy a used truck without the manufacturer’s original door sticker on the jam. It was removed for a reason IMO…to fool you!

Tow rating isn't on the door sticker.

[Grit_dog]

Sport45 wrote:
Who said anything about the ratings sticker being removed?

Lol, right?

OP, another round of bantering has began….like every thread here….
Look up the basic configuration in the Towing guide and that will be real close to every truck with the same or similar configuration.

[Sport45]

Who said anything about the ratings sticker being removed?

[Lwiddis]

I wouldn’t buy a used truck without the manufacturer’s original door sticker on the jam. It was removed for a reason IMO…to fool you!