Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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joebedford wrote:Just to throw a contrarian post into the mix, on my truck 2011 Chev, the pressure sensor on the master cylinder failed and the brake controller (factory) would not activate the trailer brakes in auto or manual. Brilliant design - I had to haul trailer to get repaired without any trailer brakes. SCARY. They had no reason to disable the manual control.
That’s not contrarian. That is great info, as it’s not a typical cause of no trailer brakes.
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marpel
notapplicable
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Grit dog,
Yes, the brakes worked fine previously, although with another truck. Due to circumstance, the trailer has sat for a number of months (bit over one year). And I have been able to confirm the current truck's trailer brake system does work (with another trailer).
Marv
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marpel
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Resurrecting this thread.
As I have been tied up looking after my grand-daughter, have been unable to work on the trailer until today. With old 7 pin cable and new one which I replaced today, the lights etc work, but none of the brakes operate (tandem axle).
I hooked up a brand new battery and pulled the breakaway switch. The brakes did not activate at any wheel.
I have checked the wiring at the front of the trailer and was only able to go under the trailer and do a visual on the brake wiring to all wheels, and everything looked OK (I know this is not definitive).
So, if the brakes are wired in parallel, which it appears they are, and if all brakes are inoperative, does this mean the issue is in the main cable somewhere prior to the first wheel connection? Just trying to get some advice on exactly where I should concentrate on looking.
Unfortunately, I am still doing babysitting duties so my time is limited to work on this. And the best part,I only have until this next weekend to figure this out.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Marv
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JIMNLIN
Oklahoma
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Joined: 09/14/2003
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Something else to check.....You can get 12v at the magnets with just a couple of strands of the brake wire. However it take the whole stranded wire to get proper amps to the brakes.
When buying new or a used rv/work trailer I always run a amp check at the magnets.
I've found those clam shell wire connectors over a short time can loose enough connection to limit amps to the brake....but still get 12v.
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Sjm9911
New Jersey
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Disconect the feed wire fron the brakes, put a meter on it and test it for voltage. Only way to know for sure.
2012 kz spree 220 ks
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StirCrazy
Kamloops, BC, Canada
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Joined: 07/16/2003
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you said it worked when you manualy applied the conrtoler, so then there shouldnt be a wiring issue at all, either your gain is turned down or its just not applying as you are stopped. when I have to do a tug test on my 5th wheel it doesnt appy untill I have rolled a little bit, has to detect motion. best way is to turn the gain to max, then go drive around the block at a deicent speed and then apply the brakes and see if it slows you down.
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djsamuel
Central Florida
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marpel wrote:Resurrecting this thread.
As I have been tied up looking after my grand-daughter, have been unable to work on the trailer until today. With old 7 pin cable and new one which I replaced today, the lights etc work, but none of the brakes operate (tandem axle).
I hooked up a brand new battery and pulled the breakaway switch. The brakes did not activate at any wheel.
I have checked the wiring at the front of the trailer and was only able to go under the trailer and do a visual on the brake wiring to all wheels, and everything looked OK (I know this is not definitive).
So, if the brakes are wired in parallel, which it appears they are, and if all brakes are inoperative, does this mean the issue is in the main cable somewhere prior to the first wheel connection? Just trying to get some advice on exactly where I should concentrate on looking.
Unfortunately, I am still doing babysitting duties so my time is limited to work on this. And the best part,I only have until this next weekend to figure this out.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Marv
Not trying to state the obvious, but you don't have a separate battery for the breakaway system do you? My trailer had that and when I tested the breakaway switch it didn't work, which is how I discovered the separate battery (which was dead). I've since wired the system to the house battery.
Just trying to help you avoid a mistake I made. ![[emoticon]](https://forums.motorhome.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
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