Purchasing first TT, need a bit of sanity checking advice

[kcstrom]

I'm looking to purchase my first travel trailer. SO and I have narrowed down the choices to the ***Link Removed***.

This has all the main features we're looking for and I think should be towable by our truck okay. I'd like some sanity checking on this by others more knowledgeable and experienced in this area than myself.

Edit: Re-evaluated. New trailer I'm looking at is in this post further down.

Freedom Express 238BH:
UVW: 5314lb
Hitch weight: 694lb
Length: 25'9"

Truck:
2013 RAM 1500 4x4 Crew Cab 5.7L
Towing capacity: 6500lb
Payload: 1650lb
GAWR (rear): 3900
GAWR (front): 3900
Measured weight (rear): 2580lb
Measured weight (front): 3480lb

This was only with me in the truck and 3/4 tank of gas. SO and kids will add ~350lb total.

I am planning to get a 2 or 4 point weight distribution hitch. Unloaded TT is 81.75% of the max towing capacity.

The hitch weight was a bit concerning to me at first, but it seems like a properly adjust WD hitch should alleviate that by placing ~20% back onto front axles and ~20% onto trailer axles.

I would need to keep additional weight loaded onto trailer and truck bed to less than 1K lbs to stay under max towing capacity.

I live in a flat area, but am planning to drive to hilly areas (like SD and Wyoming/Yellowstone), so it'll see some decent grades.

This trailer is heavier than I originally set out to look at, but seems like we can keep within all the max weights with a bit of planning.

Am I making a stupid decision if I buy this and pull with my truck?

[Grit_dog]

Here’s something that will blow minds of those who are a little knowledgeable and think that any semi floating (aka c clip) axle is weak.
I have an 8600gvw pickup (3/4 ton 8 lug), “camper special” at that, with a curb weight of around 5k and an unloaded ra weight of around 2500lbs. That truck has a c clip axle from the factory AND an estimated 6klb rawr (if they had put a sticker on it ).
Crazy, I know…

[valhalla360]

kcstrom wrote:

GrandpaKip wrote:

kcstrom wrote:

GrandpaKip wrote:
Maybe I missed it, but have you looked at the door sticker on your truck?

Yep. It matches the info from the towing capacity sheet I included before.
GAWR: 3900 for both front and rear
GVWR: 6800

Requires PSI of 39lbs/in in tires.

It doesn't state an actual weight from the time of manufacturing.

What about the payload?

-It doesn't say anything about payload or measured weight at manufacturing. Only the GAWR and GVWR and require tired pressure.-

Edit: I looked again and found there is another sticker on the body inside the door, apart from the stickers on the (end of the)door itself. This does state a payload of 1139. You learn something new everyday!

So, this indicates it had a known difference of (1390-1139 😃 251 from what the spec sheet says. I guess additional options or just variance in weight as manufactured account for 251 pounds of mystery weight. Only ~300 more to find! lol

Normally the yellow sticker is a good starting point but since you already took it to a CAT scale, even that is superseded.

If you are over by 100-200lb, I might not get too fussy about it but I'm betting you are over by several hundred pounds. Yes, even the smaller trailer will be iffy.

You might ask if the dealer will let you hook it up and swing thru a CAT scale to get real numbers (of course they will tell you it's fine...)

Suggest when you get the next truck pay close attention to the payload numbers. Many trucks can only theoretically tow to their rating as they run out of payload. Towing over the limits can be done but it's often not a fun experience.

[Grit_dog]

BarneyS wrote:
Grit Dog,
Thanks for the pointing out my error. It has been quite a few years since I had that truck. I fixed it.

Regarding it being applicable to the OP, I only posted it to point out that GVWR was not the big thing to worry about unless it is grossly overweight. I agree that if he is really worried about being too close he should look at 250/2500 vehicles.
Barney

Ha! I was hoping to hear that you had stuffed a hi-po 440 in a 2nd Gen!
And you’re absolutely correct, with your old truck also being a great example of a neutered gvw with far more capacity than “advertised.”
Although, low gvw rated 3/4tons have FAR more actual axle capacity than shown, whereas most half tons are much closer to their real axle capacity ratings (what the axle was designed for, not the rawr sticker). With springs upgradeable easily, axle (and OE tire) limitations are generally the real world limiting factor on half tons. Where that’s not the case with 3/4 tons which generally have the same or similar axles as 1 tons and duallies.

This is what generally falls on deaf ears on anyone who is concerned about weight and knows nothing, nor wants to learn “why” they should actually be concerned.

Case in point, OP believes his stronger/better pulling drivetrain (transmission specifically) is worse than the other option because that’s what it says on paper.

Fun fact, I’m pretty sure FCA de-rated first year ZF 8speed trucks. Why? Idk. But the rating isn’t consistent with 2014-up which is same everything as 2013, first year partial ZF intro.

MAybe this “useless” knowledge will be of interest to someone else looking for info.

[kcstrom]

GrandpaKip wrote:

kcstrom wrote:

GrandpaKip wrote:
Maybe I missed it, but have you looked at the door sticker on your truck?

Yep. It matches the info from the towing capacity sheet I included before.
GAWR: 3900 for both front and rear
GVWR: 6800

Requires PSI of 39lbs/in in tires.

It doesn't state an actual weight from the time of manufacturing.

What about the payload?

-It doesn't say anything about payload or measured weight at manufacturing. Only the GAWR and GVWR and require tired pressure.-

Edit: I looked again and found there is another sticker on the body inside the door, apart from the stickers on the (end of the)door itself. This does state a payload of 1139. You learn something new everyday!

So, this indicates it had a known difference of (1390-1139 😃 251 from what the spec sheet says. I guess additional options or just variance in weight as manufactured account for 251 pounds of mystery weight. Only ~300 more to find! lol

[GrandpaKip]

kcstrom wrote:

GrandpaKip wrote:
Maybe I missed it, but have you looked at the door sticker on your truck?

Yep. It matches the info from the towing capacity sheet I included before.
GAWR: 3900 for both front and rear
GVWR: 6800

Requires PSI of 39lbs/in in tires.

It doesn't state an actual weight from the time of manufacturing.

What about the payload?

[BarneyS]

Grit Dog,
Thanks for the pointing out my error. It has been quite a few years since I had that truck. I fixed it.

Regarding it being applicable to the OP, I only posted it to point out that GVWR was not the big thing to worry about unless it is grossly overweight. I agree that if he is really worried about being too close he should look at 250/2500 vehicles.
Barney

[Grit_dog]

kcstrom wrote:

GrandpaKip wrote:
Maybe I missed it, but have you looked at the door sticker on your truck?

Yep. It matches the info from the towing capacity sheet I included before.
GAWR: 3900 for both front and rear
GVWR: 6800

Requires PSI of 39lbs/in in tires.

It doesn't state an actual weight from the time of manufacturing.

With all due respect, you don't understand enough about vehicles to understand what/how to make this work with your current truck.
Get a 3/4 ton. Requires no thinking.

[kcstrom]

GrandpaKip wrote:
Maybe I missed it, but have you looked at the door sticker on your truck?

Yep. It matches the info from the towing capacity sheet I included before.
GAWR: 3900 for both front and rear
GVWR: 6800

Requires PSI of 39lbs/in in tires.

It doesn't state an actual weight from the time of manufacturing.

[GrandpaKip]

Maybe I missed it, but have you looked at the door sticker on your truck?

[Grit_dog]

BarneyS wrote:
I'm with Grit Dog on this one. You should have no problem towing the 17JG with your vehicle and I wouldn't worry about being over the GVWR by a couple hundred pounds. The difference between the two trailers you are considering is negligible and the floor plan is much better in the 17JG in my opinion.

I towed the trailer in my signature for quite a few years with a 1997 7.3L gas powered Ram 2500 which was overloaded by about 300lbs on the GVWR. All axle weights were ok and it was just the GVWR that was exceeded. Went probably well over 30,000 mile like that before I finally decided to get a diesel truck. Point is that the overload did not hurt me other than having to have the transmission rebuilt one time (very common for that year RAM).

Go for it! 🙂
Barney

Appreciate “someone” agreeing w me! Lol
But for the OPs edification, what you said about your old truck is largely inapplicable.
Aside from your confusion on what engine your old truck had (unless you transplanted an old Dodge 440 motor in it), your old Ram 2500 had double the axle and spring capacity of the OPs truck. Or to put it differently, OP truck is more capable pulling and the springs are the only issue that would need fixed and axle rating is light but still enough to do what he was asking about.

[nickthehunter]

Don't be so worried about hitch weight that you put a bunch of stuff in the back of the trailer so the hitch weight is lower. If you don't have about 12% hitch weight, the trailer will start to sway. Better to be 200 lbs over on the hitch weight than to have that sucker start swaying at about 70 mph.

[dodge_guy]

You will be fine! Don’t obsess about it. Remember you want 12% of the trailers loaded for travel weight.

Figure minimum trailer weight of 6000 lbs, closer to 6200. 12% of that for tongue weight would be approx 700lbs. That leaves you with 950 for the hitch and people. The Hemi and 8 speed will haul that without issue!

[BarneyS]

I'm with Grit Dog on this one. You should have no problem towing the 17JG with your vehicle and I wouldn't worry about being over the GVWR by a couple hundred pounds. The difference between the two trailers you are considering is negligible and the floor plan is much better in the 17JG in my opinion.

I towed the trailer in my signature for quite a few years with a 1997 5.9L gas powered Ram 2500 which was overloaded by about 300lbs on the GVWR. All axle weights were ok and it was just the GVWR that was exceeded. Went probably well over 30,000 mile like that before I finally decided to get a diesel truck. Point is that the overload did not hurt me other than having to have the transmission rebuilt one time (very common for that year RAM).

Go for it! 🙂
Barney
Edited to fix engine size. Thanks Grit Dog.:)

[Grit_dog]

Dude, you could tow that wolf pup capably with a midisze SUV.
It's pretty clear you're freaked out about this. (And probably sick of my posts, since you're also clearly intimidated by this possible venture and really don't want to hear that it's ok)
So either go sink enough money into a new truck that you could just stay at a B&B every night you're camping for the next 10 years and not be any lighter in the wallet in the end, or maybe try this....
Do you know anyone with a big trailer. Camper, enclosed, big @ss flatbed, whatever. Find something that doesn't totally tank your rear springs for a nice test drive (since that is the weakest link in your truck's equation...but they won't break, they're springs, they'll just sag and maybe bottom out if you hit a bump...and like $200-300 to rectify that situation, permanently if you're so inclined).

Then go take that trailer for a drive and see if it's as awful as your mind is conjuring up.

Or, since you don't really understand what you're worried about, trucks are selling for alot of money right now. Sell yer 1500 and find a similar 2500 gasser. If you're staying in the same ballpark for years and miles, the cost will be negligible by comparison.
OR, a little trailer is cool. And easier to tow, which you already knew. But you wanted a bigger trailer, so...