Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Travel Trailers: Sway bar problems
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Travel Trailers

Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  General Q&A

 > Sway bar problems

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 2  
Prev
Gdetrailer

PA

Senior Member

Joined: 01/05/2007

View Profile



Posted: 03/17/22 02:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

raychris1 wrote:

Thanks for all the feedback. The block ramp was my second option. We have ample room to add/remove the bars. My concern is getting the TT down the driveway without dragging the tongue or rear of the TT before I get onto the street.


You have much bigger problems if you end up dragging tongue and/or rear without WD in your own driveway.

Yes, the rear of your vehicle is going to sag more than normal, but unless you have a steep elevation change generally should be fine..

As for as the rear of the trailer dragging goes, without WD the rear of the trailer should actually be a bit higher so it should have less chance of dragging.

If you do drag either way, you should still be OK, often the tongue jack will often drag sometimes with big elevation changes. As long as it isn't severe drag to high center it generally will not harm it.

As far as back dragging, is pretty normal for longer trailers to do this and often just can't be helped.. Often trailer manufacturers will add a drag bar at the rear of the trailer frame to protect things like black tank.

Try it without WD first to get hooked up, then move it to a safe spot that is flatter and then add WD..

I would not recommend attempting to put vehicle tires up on blocks or ramps. That is just asking for trouble, you need all four wheels of your vehicle firmly planted on Terra Firma for safety reasons.. Would get ugly real fast if the blocks or ramps moved or your vehicle loses traction while up on blocking or ramps..

raychris1

Kennewick, Wa

Senior Member

Joined: 08/11/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/17/22 03:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I guess I could have explained what I was thinking of doing a little better. The block is a Trailer Jack Block. It is used to lift the tongue up high enough to go above the ball. I was thinking of using those orange, Lynx Leveler, blocks that you hook together to level one side when one side is lower. I still plan on attaching/removing the bars when I get the TT to level ground.
Ray


Ray and Chris
2022 Open Roads 26BH
2013 F-150


BarneyS

S.E. Lower Michigan

Moderator

Joined: 10/16/2000

View Profile



Posted: 03/17/22 04:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

canoe on top wrote:

Barney, if he has an Equal-i-zer or a Reece Dual Cam,as well as some others, the WD bars are also the sway bars.

I understand and know that. Note which forum I moderate. Thanks.[emoticon]
Barney


2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD


opnspaces

San Diego Ca

Senior Member

Joined: 12/22/2004

View Profile


Online
Posted: 03/17/22 05:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You already have the suggestions on moving to level ground so I won't belabor that point.

The one additional suggestion I would add is once you are on level ground use the tongue jack to lift up the tongue and rear of the truck. If you can crank it up high enough you should be able to hook the bars with minimal force.


2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton
2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH
1986 Coleman Columbia Popup.

Gdetrailer

PA

Senior Member

Joined: 01/05/2007

View Profile



Posted: 03/17/22 07:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

raychris1 wrote:

I guess I could have explained what I was thinking of doing a little better. The block is a Trailer Jack Block. It is used to lift the tongue up high enough to go above the ball. I was thinking of using those orange, Lynx Leveler, blocks that you hook together to level one side when one side is lower. I still plan on attaching/removing the bars when I get the TT to level ground.
Ray


Your signature says you have a F150 and a 20-30ft+ ft trailer (I didn't bother to look up the model).

To put this into perspective, your truck is at least 7k lbs your trailer may be what 6K lbs?

Combined you are 13K lbs, on a hill playing with a lot of weight that wishes to kill everything in it's path..

When things goes sideways it isn't going to be pretty.

Those plastic lego style blocks are like putting ball bearings under your wheels.. Even though it is your front wheels of your vehicle I really feel it would not be the safest to do.. Having all four tires firmly on the ground is the safest way..

As long as you are attaching the bars on safer level ground, there is no need to lift the front of the truck.

Now, if the problem is the trailer tongue is not high enough to get onto the hitch then you might need to place blocking under the TRAILER tires, not the tow vehicles front tires.. In this case, you can place the lego blocks under the trailer when you park it but you will need possibly add some more height to the trailer tongue and make sure to chock your trailer tires (always a good idea to chock the trailer wheels).. In this case I would build up the parking area height where you park your trailer if possible so you do not need as much trailer tongue blocking..

Boomerweps

Hills of PA

Senior Member

Joined: 04/30/2018

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/18/22 11:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A minor PITA, but at unlevel camp sites, I sometimes place several wood blocks or levelers under the tongue jack to raise it as far as it’s able. Then place several blocks under the levelers and extend them. Then retract the jack and add more blocks under the jack to lift the trailer higher. As long as the block base is stable, no probs getting the coupler really high.


2019 Wolf Pup 16 BHS Limited, axle flipped
2019 F150 4x4 SCrew SB STX 5.0 3.55 factory tow package, 7000#GVWR, 1990 CC Tow mirrors, ITBC, SumoSprings,


canoe on top

Denver, CO, US

Senior Member

Joined: 07/21/2003

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 03/18/22 12:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hey Barney,I've followed you long enough on ths forum to figure you know that. Just clarifying for people who might not. Also, I stand corrected on the bars being called spring bars. That's what they are even though they do provide a WD and sway control function.Didn't mean to sound picky.

raychris1

Kennewick, Wa

Senior Member

Joined: 08/11/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/18/22 01:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

opnspaces wrote:

You already have the suggestions on moving to level ground so I won't belabor that point.

The one additional suggestion I would add is once you are on level ground use the tongue jack to lift up the tongue and rear of the truck. If you can crank it up high enough you should be able to hook the bars with minimal force.

I learned that a couple of years ago. A helpful camper saw me struggling getting the bars off and gave me that info. You can learn a lot from helpful fellow campers. We have a journal where we add good/bad campgrounds and other useful info we learn along the way.

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 2  
Prev

Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  General Q&A

 > Sway bar problems
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Travel Trailers


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2023 CWI, Inc. © 2023 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.