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Sjm9911
New Jersey
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Lol, then just say its not a good test. Done. Personally, its the first time I ever heard of using a compass, pull the wheel and test the magnet with a metal tool, yes. Meter yes. I have had my share of weird brak problems. So sometimes the fix is evident, sometimes its not. I did learn, that with the harder stuff , its easier to rewire then to troubleshoot.
2012 kz spree 220 ks
2020 Silverado 2500
Equalizer ( because i have it)
Formerly a pup owner.
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BarneyS
S.E. Lower Michigan
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Perhaps the wire going through the axle has worn through and shorting out that one wheel magnet. Pretty common problem and I'm surprised nobody has mentioned it here. Also perhaps I am not understanding the OP's problem.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD
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MFL
Midwest
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BarneyS wrote:Perhaps the wire going through the axle has worn through and shorting out that one wheel magnet. Pretty common problem and I'm surprised nobody has mentioned it here. Also perhaps I am not understanding the OP's problem.
Barney
Good point Barney, but in my experience, the axle to wire shorting, causes brakes to vary from little braking, to severe braking, pending contact of bare wire.
Jerry
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freewayrandy
'Old Hangtown', Ca
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Just to clarify things, I had all new brakes, from the backing plates out, installed at a local RV repair place. I've ordered a new DC current tester to check everything out. Just don't want the same thing happening to the new brakes.
2015 Chevy 2500HD Duramax/Allison, 2018 Grand Design Momentum 328, 2005 Polaris Sportsman 500, 2018 Polaris RZR 900
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JRscooby
Indepmo
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Sjm9911 wrote:Lol, then just say its not a good test. Done. Personally, its the first time I ever heard of using a compass, pull the wheel and test the magnet with a metal tool, yes. Meter yes. I have had my share of weird brak problems. So sometimes the fix is evident, sometimes its not. I did learn, that with the harder stuff , its easier to rewire then to troubleshoot.
The most likely problem with e-brakes will be magnet not getting power. And used right, a compass will tell you this magnet is not working with no teardown, or even getting under the trailer. This is why LEOs will use it roadside on CMVs (in theory, a fish hook on a short line could work)
My problem with the "easier to re-wire" crowd is it is also easier to just leave the old wires there. And because they could not find a problem, likely the rewire job will have problems shortly. So they rewire again. Then when somebody does try to troubleshoot, bunch of extra wires to sort out.
Off topic but kinda funny. I decided to take Bobcat out to work with my '54 F5. No CB, so I was surprised by a roadside safety inspection. I watched the mirror, pumped the pedal while the kid in uniform waved his compass around the trailer wheels. He gets my Out Of Service paper all marked up, hands it to me to sign. "What makes you think my trailer brakes don't work?" loud for the senior inspector to hear. Senior, who had been inspecting my stuff for years, looked at the tongue of trailer, "Surge brakes are PITA. Scooby, do they work?" I asked if he wanted me to pull break-away. "Naw, we'll just mark this 1 as training."
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time2roll
Southern California
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Joined: 03/21/2005
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freewayrandy wrote:Just to clarify things, I had all new brakes, from the backing plates out, installed at a local RV repair place. I've ordered a new DC current tester to check everything out. Just don't want the same thing happening to the new brakes. Excellent. Please post what is found.
2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675w Solar pictures back up
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Sjm9911
New Jersey
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JRscooby wrote:Sjm9911 wrote:Lol, then just say its not a good test. Done. Personally, its the first time I ever heard of using a compass, pull the wheel and test the magnet with a metal tool, yes. Meter yes. I have had my share of weird brak problems. So sometimes the fix is evident, sometimes its not. I did learn, that with the harder stuff , its easier to rewire then to troubleshoot.
The most likely problem with e-brakes will be magnet not getting power. And used right, a compass will tell you this magnet is not working with no teardown, or even getting under the trailer. This is why LEOs will use it roadside on CMVs (in theory, a fish hook on a short line could work)
My problem with the "easier to re-wire" crowd is it is also easier to just leave the old wires there. And because they could not find a problem, likely the rewire job will have problems shortly. So they rewire again. Then when somebody does try to troubleshoot, bunch of extra wires to sort out.
Off topic but kinda funny. I decided to take Bobcat out to work with my '54 F5. No CB, so I was surprised by a roadside safety inspection. I watched the mirror, pumped the pedal while the kid in uniform waved his compass around the trailer wheels. He gets my Out Of Service paper all marked up, hands it to me to sign. "What makes you think my trailer brakes don't work?" loud for the senior inspector to hear. Senior, who had been inspecting my stuff for years, looked at the tongue of trailer, "Surge brakes are PITA. Scooby, do they work?" I asked if he wanted me to pull break-away. "Naw, we'll just mark this 1 as training."
Well you have to do what you have to do sometimes. I left my old wires there, caped and wound. They were run inside of the camper. No way was I removing them. And no way I could find the problem. It was a broken wire somewhere that caused an intermittent loss of power when I was driving only. I rewired the hubs and kept testing and found nothing. Pulled the camper away and it would read no power to the brakes, off and on. Should have just rewired it from the start, that took a few hours. I spent days troubleshooting. Grounds, wires, TV, and nada.
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Sjm9911
New Jersey
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freewayrandy wrote:Just to clarify things, I had all new brakes, from the backing plates out, installed at a local RV repair place. I've ordered a new DC current tester to check everything out. Just don't want the same thing happening to the new brakes.
I hope it is all worked out now, just keep an eye on it. Get a volt meter and test the voltage at the conection points. Thats the best way.
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freewayrandy
'Old Hangtown', Ca
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Thanks to all for your input and support.
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