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Best Toad braking System

Mr4aces
Explorer
Explorer
I am trying to determine the best Toad braking system for my set up. I have a DP with air brakes and a 2000 jeep cherokee. Initially i thought the brakemaster 9160 for air brakes looked good, but have now been made aware that an airline failure in the toad could negatively impact my coach air brakes. Yikes that's scary. How about the brake buddy system? Looks a little cumbersome and I don't like that it's not proportional. What does anyone suggest?

Thanks!
16 REPLIES 16

olfarmer
Explorer
Explorer
I like my ReadyBrake system, used it for several years to tow my Jeep GCL behind my Winnebago Brave with 0 problems.
Ed & Ruby & the 2 cats
2001 Winnebago Brave 30W
7.4 gas Work Horse Chassis
99 Jeep Grand Cherokee

RodLyle
Explorer
Explorer
the one we have used for several yrs is the invisbrake by Roadmaster no problems, ready to go after hook up to rv

Ro_n_Joe
Explorer
Explorer
Executive wrote:
$1100 for the ReadyBrake system. BlueOx base plate and you're in business. Hook up and go. No fooling around with the coach system either...ours is going on 14 years with zero issues....lifetime warranty besides....Dennis

Here's a link...Ready Brute System


2X on ReadyBrute but unlike Dennis only 2.5yrs. Installed everything including lights (Roadmaster Diode Kit) and Demco baseplate.
2020 Dutch Star 4328 on FL Chassis
2018 Grand Cherokee Limited
Ready Brute Elite Towbar & Road Master Wiring

Executive45
Explorer III
Explorer III
$1100 for the ReadyBrake system. BlueOx base plate and you're in business. Hook up and go. No fooling around with the coach system either...ours is going on 14 years with zero issues....lifetime warranty besides....Dennis

Here's a link...Ready Brute System
We can do more than we think we can, but most do less than we think we do
Dennis and Debi Fourteen Years Full Timing
Monaco Executive M-45PBQ Quad Slide
525HP Cummins ISM 6 Spd Allison
2014 Chevrolet Equinox LTZ W/ ReadyBrute
CLICK HERE TO VIEW OUR TRAVEL BLOG

DSDP_Don
Explorer
Explorer
Typically, when you buy an RV product or pretty much any product, there is a Good, Better and Best. Unfortunately, that is not true with RV brake systems. Only the DP's can use the proportional brake systems that require air. So that narrows down some of the options for gassers.

One of the first devices was the box on the floor that pushes on the brake pedal. It's completely removable between use and can easily be moved to another vehicle. Some didn't find them trustworthy while others didn't want to mess with the large box.

Another system, used in many forms, is a piston pushing on the brake pedal. Some quickly attach to a fitting under the seat where ones like mine have a small piston attached to the pedal.

A lot depends on how much you want to install each time you tow. My AF1 is always installed and hidden out of the way. All I do is plug in my umbilical and airline at the front of the toad and I'm done. Others don't mind taking a few more steps.

The last one to discuss is the Ready Brake that has a surge brake built into the tow bar. The brake system and tow bar are all one price, saving money on a separate braking system, that can easily cost $700 - $1200.

The Ready Brake requires a fair amount of initial setup on the toad, which includes running the brake cable through the firewall and to the front bumper and a second cable if you go with a break away safety system.

I've actually been pushing these for people who want to save some money on their setup. I've installed 10 tow bar and base plate setups in the last 10 years. Some for me and some for friends. I just completed a Ready Brake install on a Class A gas and Jeep toad. Now that I'm done, I don't know if I would recommend it anymore.

All the parts came with the Ready Brake tow bar kit, except the safety break away. We made custom brackets for all the cables, so they were centered, but when done, it just seemed like a maze of equipment that could easily get caught up on something....two dangling cables.

The tow bar had two coiled safety cables, two 1/8" cables running from the Jeep to the coach, a 7-wire umbilical and a second 2 wire umbilical for the safety break away. We would have incorporated the 2 wires in the umbilical, but using the Jeep made harness prevented that.

They use huge red handled pins for the connection points and another red handled pin to hold the tow bar up when not in use. It was just crazy looking compared to my setup. My Roadmaster tow bar incorporates the safety cables into the tow arms, and I have one umbilical with an 1/4" air hose strapped to it.....that's it. All the pins are small headed and unobtrusive.

So you have a lot of choices to sift through. If you can't do your own install, you need to find what your local installer likes to use.
Don & Mary
2019 Newmar Dutch Star 4018 - All Electric
2019 Ford Raptor Crew Cab

Y-Guy
Moderator
Moderator
Saying which is best is tough. There are many options and everyone mine define what is best differently. For some its convenience - plug & play & others its cost out the door. I think we all want reliability and ease of use.

Once the air system is setup it's a pretty much plug & play. As I've never used it others can give feedback about your concerns. Before I ruled out the air braking I'd get advice as you did here, and talk to a dealership or two about things.

For my setup I went with the NSA ReadyBrake system which I documented on this post

Two Wire Fox Terriers; Sarge & Sully

2007 Winnebago Sightseer 35J

2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon

oldave
Explorer
Explorer
Mr4aces wrote:
Initially i thought the brakemaster 9160 for air brakes looked good, but have now been made aware that an airline failure in the toad could negatively impact my coach air brakes.

Thanks!


The info you received is not true.
I have used a Brake master for approx 20 yrs. It is so simple and so basic, and that's its advantage IMHO.
Any air brake system for your toad will have an umbilical hose that is plugged in when you tow. Once I failed to couple the hose good at the toad while we were traveling, the coupler dragged on the hiway for miles and miles, the brass coupler was gone. The Air hose was wide open, I never knew it, my brakes on the coach worked fine, and my air pressure stayed up. Air only comes out of that hose when applying the brake. It wasn't until in traffic I began to notice the toad brakes weren't working, coach brakes still worked fine.
I bought a new coupler at Graingers and we were on our way.
IMHO a Brakebuddy is far more apt to malfunction than any of the toad air brake systems.
I have read of many going from a Brakebuddy to an air system, never the other way.

BTW 20 yrs ago I was going to use the M&G system but it wouldn't fit the toad we had.

Bruce_Brown
Moderator
Moderator
We bought the RVI3 system and have been happy. It's simple and easy to set up and use. We bought it based on a friends recommendation.

RVI3
There are 24 hours in every day - it all depends on how you choose to use them.
Bruce & Jill Brown
2008 Kountry Star Pusher 3910

LouLawrence
Explorer
Explorer
M&G brake will fit your 2000 Cherokee. Go to https://mgbrakes.com/ for more information. It's by far the best and there is no reason to believe there would be any negative effect on your RV brakes.

wildtoad
Explorer II
Explorer II
Take a look at the NSA Ready Brake system. Easy one time install, fool proof.
Tom Wilds
Blythewood, SC
2016 Newmar Baystar Sport 3004
2015 Jeep Wrangler 2dr HT

DSDP_Don
Explorer
Explorer
The systems that use the coach air, like mine (Air Force One) and M&G are all protected in case there is an airline break. They will have no effect on your coach or toad, other than losing the use of toad braking until the airline is repaired. I've been using AF1 for over 10 years. Whoever told you about failures is clueless.
Don & Mary
2019 Newmar Dutch Star 4018 - All Electric
2019 Ford Raptor Crew Cab

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
There are several systems. I do not like the "Brake Buddy" box in the driver's seat for a number of reasons.. They advertise "No installation" but the fact is YOU install it (not a professional) every time you tow.. Unless of course it's a short trip and you say "oh the heck with it" (yes it happenes)

US-Gear Unified brake decelerator is, in my opinion the best **IF** you know how to take advantage of it's features.. This is an electric over hydraulic system and provides a charge to the towed's battery But you can engage the towed brakes without the motor home's or disable the towed's brakes adjust the "Gain" and it is proportional. I know of no other system that flexible. BUT you need to know how to use some of those features and you should not be driving in places you need them . (They come in handy on bad roads)

I think it's M&G for motor homes with air brakes.. IF and I stress IF it fits your towed it's totally transparent. NOTHIGN in the cockpit (All under the hood) They also make a kit with a 12 volt compressor for Motor homes without air brakes.

Beyond that Ready Break. this is a surge brake system.. if the car "pushes" against the motor home it pulls the brake pedal.. Now there are a couple issues.. One is the cable is a parking brake type cable and if it gets rusty it can jam up on you. Otherwise it's a great system.

Most of the others are enough alike in how well they work as to not distinguish.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

RLS7201
Explorer
Explorer
I have been using a non-proportional Brake Buddy for 21 years. Yes, it's cumbersome but it works well when necessary. I'm not sure I want my toad brakes wearing out, helping the coach stop all the time. Your millage may vary.

Richard
95 Bounder 32H F53 460
2013 CRV Toad
2 Segways in Toad
First brake job
1941 Hudson